What are you working on today?

My ‘05 CRV has had the rear driver’s side window stuck in the up position for about half a year. It hasn’t been a big issue but I’ve had parts hanging around so finally worked on it yesterday.

I replaced the regulator/motor but it would only go up and not down, when using the rear switch. The master switch at the front didn’t work at all.

I spent time testing wires and voltages and determined it also needs a new rear switch. I’m getting the OEM part from Honda. The regulator/motor from Honda is over $700 so those were, unfortunately, Cardone. Hopefully I get a year or two out of them.

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'04 Ranger 4.0: RH valve cover gasket, intake gaskets and new t-stat housing. I opted for an Al aftermarket replacement, and simply ordered SKP from RA because I reasoned at this point there can't be that many Chinese factories making 4.0 parts.

The Al lacks the three locating fingers to place the housing concentric, relying solely on the bolts. This seems sufficient in my case though as the system held 16psi indefinitely.

The Chinese junk factor came from one of the three bolts that retain the top cover having weak threads. I was just snugging with a 1/4" ratchet and one let go. The holes are thru-holes and the provided bolts only grabbed a portion of the threads. I grabbed a 40mm SHCS to engage more threads beyond the ones that pulled out, and this worked.
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It also came with one gray and one brown sensor, but this year appears to use two identical (gray) sensors as the keyways were the same on each. It was almost 2a and I was doubting Chinese accuracy, so I sanded the keyway off the brown sensor but now the temp gauge is pegged :rolleyes: The old sensors appeared to be leaking internally or I would have swapped them. New Standard coming from O'Reilly today.

I wonder if @OVERKILL 's Old-Ford-Fu can confirm both sensors are identical?

Oh and this was kinda fun -- first time I've shop-vac'd congealed rodent
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My boss loaned me his personal haulette tow-behind lift. He bought it as a retired (and tired) rental. The deal is, use it as long as you want, bring it back better than it was. His friends have put on new tires, cleaned it up, repaired bushings, and one is offering some welding. It’s mine for a few weeks. Tonight it got new battery crossover cables (which was a surprise to all of us as it quit while loading it to my truck), and I told him I’d repack the bearings while I’ve got it. I rather enjoyed working on it in the dark with just a work light, standing upright, rather than clambered down under a hood somewhere. Simple hydraulic machine. Tomorrow I’ll start putting the tired batteries on the recovery cycle of my larger charger. 4 golf cart batteries power it.
 
Ok replaced the incorrect brown import sensor on the '04 Ranger. Used a Standard TX104 and temp gauge now works properly.

Fortunately this is the easier of the two to access. I pulled the throttle cables and it was a minor game of Operation to remove the retaining clip (these don't thread in):
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At 215k I wonder how much life is left in the 4.0 SOHC. I noticed the rear chain guides on the pass head were at least partially broken at the top where it apparently anchors on a pin (when I had the valve cover off)
 
Friend’s sons 02 Camry. It’s got to be around 300k at this point. His son takes remarkable care of it and comes over for help and guy talk.

ATF D/F. Maxlife ATF, 4 quarts, and a third bottle of lubeguard red (1/3 dose).

Brake fluid exchange.

New plugs, NGK iridium.

Brake pedal feel was transformed from smush to firm. Fluid was maybe 4 years old and came out green. I most likely put it in there 4 years ago.

He said the gear shifts were a completely different animal, fast and confident, no drama, noticeable difference.

Engine runs the same (old plugs were tired but healthy-ish).

This car keeps going, and going.
 
Chewed rear washer line on '15 CRV. The rat was tearing the (inexplicable) insulation from the inner fenders
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and making a nest.
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I tore off the remaining insulation. Obviously an NVH thing but completely unnecessary. The chewed line was DIRECTLY above where he was sourcing his bedding.
 
Pretty busy day today. Met with a tree service about taking some trees down this morning. Installed a new 20” steering wheel in my dump truck this morning. Moved a couple of my project trucks around with my old 750 Holmes wrecker (a 1964 Chevy C-60 and a 1989 Ford C8000), new plugs, air filter and a transmission service on the 2015 Ford Transit. Scored a better hood for the Transit from a local salvage yard yesterday but didn’t get it swapped today. Leaving for another auction in Iowa tomorrow.
 
Quoting myself, I replaced this shaft today. From a new shaft installed April '23, it was just thinking about letting the grease out (dirty gloved finger indicates). Also note how all the fine dust seems attracted to that area View attachment 240350
Also the nut that came on the new axle was threaded at an angle internally. It would wobble around while unthreading by hand. More on that later. I've ordered an M22 bolt so I can more accurately document how Trakmotive can't build a basic nut (it's new technology, I know!!)
Quoting myself again, I finally followed up on this. I chucked the M22 wheel stud (for an International truck) in my collet closer and gently snugged the nut up against the collet.
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Set the low point at zero
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And I get .023 TIR on the nut flange
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This means if you were to use this Trakmotive-supplied nut, once it first contacts you've got a 23 thou gap 180 degrees from that first point of contact. Not sure how this would ever hold torque.
 
I puchased a somewhat rough fireproof cabinet about 5-6 months ago. I'm on vacation reorganizing the garage, and today was the day to "restore it."

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It has/had surface rust on the top, and bottom from the previous owner no doubt storing it outside. I used a surface conditioner which worked extremely well removing the rust. There was some pitting but none that I was concerned about.

Yesterday took a trip to my favorite metal supermarkets and bought some drops. One piece was square tubing for casters. My portable band saw is having some issues and I think I need to order some parts. Conversely, Bauer cutting discs are awful and last a few sneezes. I might only buy dewalt discs from now on.

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After some garnley welds, casters were on around noon, and spray painted the top/bottom.
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In the afternoon, focused on stripping the front and interior, and then ran out of paint. I have more coming monday, but now I have some time to think if it will be returning to duty as a fire cabinet, or general storage. I have bedframes (L channel) which will do nicely for plywood shelves. We'll see later after meditating a bit about how much vacation labor I put into this stupid thing. 🤡

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The fire cabinet is finished, made bed frame L channel shelves, and free plywood from an AC company that tosses giant crates weekly. it swallowed my oil hoard, I might even have room for coolant. 6 x 3 jugs deep for each shelf.

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Picked up a second hand top chest, it’s a bit wider than the older husky bottom box. The gas struts were borked so I cut them. I didn’t want the top to close anyway, top chests seem to waste height space when open. I really like the open upper area and it will give easy quick access to sockets and ratchets.

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Started to hear some noise from the rear left wheel on the BMW. Like I picked up some wire and dragged it on the road. But only hear when starting to move, as soon as I get to 5mph and more it stops. Tried hard right turns to the point where I slid the car, no noise from the bearing.
So, lifted car today, oh boy, the TPMS fell off. I rotated tire and something was inside. A month ago I picked up nail and took it to DT< and of course, now back. Pay new sensor as IDK is it their fault, but knowing their attention to detail, I would say yes.

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Put spare while it was jacked just in case:
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Did snowblower service too:

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2001 Explorer Sport Trac: no signals or brake lights. The interweb suggested MFS or the plug at MFS. Indeed, the top plug had broken its retaining clip and pulled back -- apparently a VERY common problem.

The elderly couple is on a tight budget so I actually super glued it back in. Told them I can't swear it'll hold but I didn't charge them for the "repair." If the problem returns I'll wire up a new plug.
 
2017 Tundra:
-bolted on a Barricade brush guard per customer request. In later reading reviews this appears to also be sold as Steelcraft for ~500 less. Like all brush guards it's over-leveraged and will just fold back if you hit a large deer or an elk. 95% lipstick and gloss.
-replaced all lugnuts with one-piece
-serviced the AB60F with Valvoline Extended Protection

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Our 2015 Tundra:
-replaced hood struts with ebay specials ($25 for the pair)
-replaced all lugnuts with one-piece

2024 Forester:
-engine oil change, rotated tires. First Forester I've ever seen in the wild that still has the access door intact for the oil drain.

Also, why can no manufacturer build a hood prop rod with a bushing that doesn't fail immediately? Is it new technology to run a steel rod through a plastic bushing???
 
Replaced the Dakotas MAP sensor. Don’t know if it made a difference with the sluggishness, it seems that something is getting heat soaked. Probably should of tested but it was cheap so just threw a part at it. I’ll know this weekend but seemed more peppy going to get dinner at least.

Ordered a new carb for the Jonsred 2050.. close but wouldn’t work. Took the original back apart and cleaned it again. Put the high and low at 1 1/2 turns out and set the idle higher, right at the line when the chain stopped. No idea how I should adjust it, I’m terrible with carbs.
 
Finished up my uncles Honda 90 outboard

4 new NGK plugs, and a fresh high and low pressure fuel filter

652 hrs on motor

showed my 8 year old little cousin how to do the basics

He also got stung for the first time by a gep (what we call a wasp in Cajun French)

After a few minutes of him running around screaming, I said dont worry youre tough youre a Cajun boy 😂😂

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Completed the OEM LED swap on our newly-acquired '15 Tundra. In '15 the Platinum got the weird LED DRL but still halogen bulbs (this seemed to be a trend circa '15 as I service a '15 CRV that's the same way)
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Here's the left OEM LED being tested
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Including an aftermarket harness (optional) at $110, I'm into the entire swap for less than $520. To me, that's crazy inexpensive for actual OEM Toyota lamp assys, fully functional as if from the factory. If you wanna do a little wiring, deduct $110 from that. For me, the literal plug 'n play of a harness was worth the time saved.
 
Cleaning the 72” mower on the back of the tractor, scraping the grass & build up on the belly of the deck. Lubing zerks, adjusting the belt tensioner then putting it away for the winter. Digging out the snow blower and snow blade for the tractor.

Washing the tractor down and cleaning it from mowing duties.

Installed the auto start/stop eliminator on the wife’s Durango because she can never remember to turn it off herself like I tell her to. Then added a few lbs. of air to the tires due to the temperatures dropping lately.
 
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