Injector upgrades, water pump and rad replacement.
Some small wiring issues.
Some small wiring issues.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Burning this stump.. it’s loose and mocking me and broke the tractor twice. Pulling some of the loose brush and throwing it on also. Got my book and plenty of water so just setting here watching it. Don’t want it to spread to the neighbors field.
Left the driveway at 5a yesterday for Denver, returned home at 10p with a '15 Tundra for the wife. 137k mi, Platinum, very good condition. Not sure where one finds such obnoxiously large vent visors???
Years ago I added a second peg for my stand-up ramps so a truck could overhang the back of the trailer. Probably the third-best mod I've made to the trailer (#1 is 3/16" plate bomber fenders and #2 is modding the ramps to lay on the deck for one-person removal).
Also I always chuckle pulling "nicer" vehicles with my beater '11 F350 that cost me $14k back in 2017
Wolf Creek once again cooked the rear brakes despite compression braking and the time has come for the '13+ rear upgrade
Years ago I added a second peg for my stand-up ramps so a truck could overhang the back of the trailer. Probably the third-best mod I've made to the trailer (#1 is 3/16" plate bomber fenders and #2 is modding the ramps to lay on the deck for one-person removal).
Also I always chuckle pulling "nicer" vehicles with my beater '11 F350 that cost me $14k back in 2017
Wolf Creek once again cooked the rear brakes despite compression braking and the time has come for the '13+ rear upgrade
very nice looking truck, in the only color that matters, brown.Left the driveway at 5a yesterday for Denver, returned home at 10p with a '15 Tundra for the wife. 137k mi, Platinum, very good condition. Not sure where one finds such obnoxiously large vent visors???View attachment 302191
Years ago I added a second peg for my stand-up ramps so a truck could overhang the back of the trailer. Probably the third-best mod I've made to the trailer (#1 is 3/16" plate bomber fenders and #2 is modding the ramps to lay on the deck for one-person removal).
View attachment 302192
Also I always chuckle pulling "nicer" vehicles with my beater '11 F350 that cost me $14k back in 2017
Wolf Creek once again cooked the rear brakes despite compression braking and the time has come for the '13+ rear upgrade
Engine is out on the RTV. Pressure washed the bay. The dump cylinder might be leaking or one of the lines, the engine/trans cradle bushings are worn. I will be replacing all coolant hoses, deleting the AC, but keeping the cab heater.
I need to pause a little bit for some garage consolidation/reorganization. Taking a week off work.
My uncles 2000 year model Honda Recon 250 that he bought new, heavily abused with little maintenance. Thats what the float bowl looked like when I pulled it off. Tore down the carb and cleaned it out real good with carb cleaner, soaked the bowl in a mix of MMO/2 stroke oil and wiped out as much green gunk as I could. Oiled the air filter, put a new battery, and tried to start it but the solenoid is bad. Cranks up fine with the pull rope, adjusted the idle and it runs great now
My house has 7 smoke detectors. There are 2 within 2’ of each other in one spot, and another 2 4feet apart. And then 3 all within 10 feet of each other. And no, they aren’t wired entirely to code (doorbell wire was used to tie them together, and they are on separate circuits). They are old, and repeatedly at 4am one would sound. Being all tied together, I could not figure them out.
Chose first alert and bought 7 online. Now, I’d rather shop locally, but the best fire alarm has both photo and ion sensors. Photo gets smoldering fires quicker, and ion gets flash fires quicker. But those aren’t sold locally at all, if you want them wired. Locally, the premium lines are ion and carbon monoxide. But CO is heavier and sits on the ground, so having that in a ceiling mounted detector is crummy. Makes no sense. Found a bulk pack on Amazon with the photo and ion sensor.
(Why do I care so much? Neighbor’s house burned down in ‘21, and mine was damaged by it. None of their alarms worked, the dog saved them. It took me a year to repair mine, and during the fire, I stood out there with my own extinguisher putting out the spots burning in my bushes from it. When the FD arrived, they cleared the area, looked at me, nodded, and let me stay. I may have saved my house. So I got a bit more interested).
Then came the “firex” vs “first alert” debate. We ended up with first alert on the auspices of a reputation of marginally better quality and reduced complaints of falsing, which was a premium concern with 7 of these tied together - as if one goes off, they all go off.
3 hours and done. This has been waiting months for me to do. Glad it’s done. Wasnt the most exciting chore, but it cleared 7 alarms off of my small work bench in the garage. Then mowed the lawn.
Chose first alert and bought 7 online. Now, I’d rather shop locally, but the best fire alarm has both photo and ion sensors. Photo gets smoldering fires quicker, and ion gets flash fires quicker. But those aren’t sold locally at all, if you want them wired. Locally, the premium lines are ion and carbon monoxide. But CO is heavier and sits on the ground, so having that in a ceiling mounted detector is crummy. Makes no sense. Found a bulk pack on Amazon with the photo and ion sensor.
(Why do I care so much? Neighbor’s house burned down in ‘21, and mine was damaged by it. None of their alarms worked, the dog saved them. It took me a year to repair mine, and during the fire, I stood out there with my own extinguisher putting out the spots burning in my bushes from it. When the FD arrived, they cleared the area, looked at me, nodded, and let me stay. I may have saved my house. So I got a bit more interested).
Then came the “firex” vs “first alert” debate. We ended up with first alert on the auspices of a reputation of marginally better quality and reduced complaints of falsing, which was a premium concern with 7 of these tied together - as if one goes off, they all go off.
3 hours and done. This has been waiting months for me to do. Glad it’s done. Wasnt the most exciting chore, but it cleared 7 alarms off of my small work bench in the garage. Then mowed the lawn.
In our pack the back seat is the dog area. The dogs are not allowed in the front seat area, and riding in the bed is out of the question. Every truck or SUV we've ever owned gets a custom dog platform so they don't get thrown to the floor and they have a lot more space to move freely.
Despite the Platinum trim level the wife's new-to-us '15 Tundra is a truck and will be used as such. (if they would just offer the SR5 with heated seats the wife would have accepted that!!!)
Test fitting the raw wood. A spacer will be required behind the driver seat because our elderly dog insists on curling up behind the driver:
Finished and wrapped in an old yoga mat. Neoprene seat cover on order for the rear. We're not much concerned with how the back seat area looks -- we never see it from the front seats anyway.
I had to break out my M18 table saw. I got splinters. There's sawdust everywhere. It was terrible. I'll take metalworking ANY day!
Despite the Platinum trim level the wife's new-to-us '15 Tundra is a truck and will be used as such. (if they would just offer the SR5 with heated seats the wife would have accepted that!!!)
Test fitting the raw wood. A spacer will be required behind the driver seat because our elderly dog insists on curling up behind the driver:
Finished and wrapped in an old yoga mat. Neoprene seat cover on order for the rear. We're not much concerned with how the back seat area looks -- we never see it from the front seats anyway.
I had to break out my M18 table saw. I got splinters. There's sawdust everywhere. It was terrible. I'll take metalworking ANY day!
- Joined
- May 16, 2022
- Messages
- 160
I deep detailed my Harley Street Glide, did a 3 step polish and Carnauba wax... I did my 3 hole fluid change last week as i'm getting older I find I need to spread this work out a bit now.
This is my 29th year doing the Myrtle Beach Fall Bike Week, I do the Spring Rally as well and started a routine years ago as I get ready for each rally. I do my 2x a year fluid changes and my 2x a year deep bike detail ( 3 step polish and Carnauba Wax top coat )
I have had my truck pro ceramic coated and almost went down that road with my bike this year but thought if its worked 29 years on all my Harleys why change now?
My bikes don't see the rain / weather like my cars and trucks do and I just can't pull the trigger on ceramic coating for the bike.
One day Ceramic perhaps but for now 2-3 deep polishing then Carnauba! The Carnauba don't last but can make Black paint pop for a time and i'll just do it again in 6 months anyway.
This is my 29th year doing the Myrtle Beach Fall Bike Week, I do the Spring Rally as well and started a routine years ago as I get ready for each rally. I do my 2x a year fluid changes and my 2x a year deep bike detail ( 3 step polish and Carnauba Wax top coat )
I have had my truck pro ceramic coated and almost went down that road with my bike this year but thought if its worked 29 years on all my Harleys why change now?
My bikes don't see the rain / weather like my cars and trucks do and I just can't pull the trigger on ceramic coating for the bike.
One day Ceramic perhaps but for now 2-3 deep polishing then Carnauba! The Carnauba don't last but can make Black paint pop for a time and i'll just do it again in 6 months anyway.
Bike detail day was very different for me than car wash day. Bike detailing was sort of a zen/art thing while I car cleaning is far too long if you want the same level of “wow.” I could take my time with the bike, inside or outside the garage, and just enjoy. Mine had a center stand and i think chain cleaning and tension-checking fell into those days as well. Good times. Beautiful work on yours.
If you are curious about ceramic, you might play with the “ceramic” Griots 3-in-1 spray wax as a touch-up coat over the carnuba. I find that carnuba gives it depth that ceramics don’t have, but the ceramic gives a pop farther than the carnuba. I do both on mine, alternating-ish between uses. The 3-in-1 spray surely isn’t the high-end of ceramics, but is easy to use.
2004 BMW 325i on it's nth window regulator. Sprung for the BMW Genuine part because it's OE equivalent and OE Fix brands are failing left and right (and front and rear.)
Old (unknown brand) vs. New OEM. The OEM is made by Brose not your common OE equiv brands such as VDO, Lemforder, Uro.
Had everything reassembled until the window still wouldn't move. Had to get a Cardone reman window motor on short notice. The motor can be easily swapped without removing the regulator from the car (if this motor ever go bad.)
Old (unknown brand) vs. New OEM. The OEM is made by Brose not your common OE equiv brands such as VDO, Lemforder, Uro.
Had everything reassembled until the window still wouldn't move. Had to get a Cardone reman window motor on short notice. The motor can be easily swapped without removing the regulator from the car (if this motor ever go bad.)
Extremely technical work on the wife's '15 Tundra.
The mouse house aka engine cover is going in the trash. Sorry, not sorry ‐‐ take rodent damage in one hand or an "unsightly" engine in the other hand. Which would you choose? Speak up please, I didn't hear you.
The Toyota-badged and thus apparently OEM tonto (inside joke from classifieds misspelling) cover was immediately removed and sold on FB MP within hours. It is 100% incompatible with how we use a truck both for our non-profit and my machine shop.
For now we opted to remove the RALVV (rear absurdly large vent visors, which are kinda like R.O.U S.es -- if you know, you know). The dogs will only catch their heads when we have windows open or cracked in a parking lot. We'll see how it goes with the FALVV (now you're catching on).
Finally, I have NO idea what these weird flaps in front of the front tires are supposed to be, and I doubt Toyota does, either. Phoned-in ground effects I guess? Well they're gone. And it looks so much better.
Unfortunately once I removed the phoned-in ground effects (patent pending), I drove three miles and mileage went from 18 to 6 MPG. It's absolutely true -- you read it on the internet. I better put 'em back on. Those things are clearly important.
"Oh, the rodents of unusual size?"
The mouse house aka engine cover is going in the trash. Sorry, not sorry ‐‐ take rodent damage in one hand or an "unsightly" engine in the other hand. Which would you choose? Speak up please, I didn't hear you.
The Toyota-badged and thus apparently OEM tonto (inside joke from classifieds misspelling) cover was immediately removed and sold on FB MP within hours. It is 100% incompatible with how we use a truck both for our non-profit and my machine shop.
For now we opted to remove the RALVV (rear absurdly large vent visors, which are kinda like R.O.U S.es -- if you know, you know). The dogs will only catch their heads when we have windows open or cracked in a parking lot. We'll see how it goes with the FALVV (now you're catching on).
Finally, I have NO idea what these weird flaps in front of the front tires are supposed to be, and I doubt Toyota does, either. Phoned-in ground effects I guess? Well they're gone. And it looks so much better.
Unfortunately once I removed the phoned-in ground effects (patent pending), I drove three miles and mileage went from 18 to 6 MPG. It's absolutely true -- you read it on the internet. I better put 'em back on. Those things are clearly important.
"Oh, the rodents of unusual size?"
Installed OEM fogs on a buddies '15 Outlander Sport. Mitsubishi makes it easy, the fog light switch and wiring is all there from the factory, so I activated the fog light option in the BCM and we were in business. The OEM fog light sub-harness was $50 and the fogs themselves were $27 for the pair so it was a very inexpensive upgrade.
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
- Joined
- May 5, 2018
- Messages
- 22,533
Mitsubishi rocks
Decided it was finally time to tackle the control arms on our WJ, the bushing sleeves had pretty much crumbled and the entire truck was starting to feel a little "loosy goosey".
I sourced all the parts from Amazon, the rear kit included the upper "boomerang", upper ball joint and both lower arms. The front lower arms came as a separate set and both were ordered as "Used - Mint". All in cost: $92 after 5%.
The biggest difference I noticed between the OEM control arms and all brands of aftermarket arms is the way they're constructed: the OEM arms are one piece, folded 4 ways and welded at the seam to create a boxed tube. The aftermarket arms are all two halves welded together top and bottom, which is arguably an inferior design but I'm sure much easier to manufacture.
The driving dynamics definitely improved after replacement. Its not a huge difference, but body sway seems to be reduced and overall "solidity" feels much better than with 23 year old mushy rubber holding things together.
I sourced all the parts from Amazon, the rear kit included the upper "boomerang", upper ball joint and both lower arms. The front lower arms came as a separate set and both were ordered as "Used - Mint". All in cost: $92 after 5%.
The biggest difference I noticed between the OEM control arms and all brands of aftermarket arms is the way they're constructed: the OEM arms are one piece, folded 4 ways and welded at the seam to create a boxed tube. The aftermarket arms are all two halves welded together top and bottom, which is arguably an inferior design but I'm sure much easier to manufacture.
The driving dynamics definitely improved after replacement. Its not a huge difference, but body sway seems to be reduced and overall "solidity" feels much better than with 23 year old mushy rubber holding things together.
Replaced the HVAC blower motor resistor on the Ram truck today, lost one of the four blower settings about two weeks ago I noticed.
Last week using my test light on the blower motor confirmed no voltage going to it.
Last week using my test light on the blower motor confirmed no voltage going to it.