Flushed the brake fluid in the Camry - but the process was new, and the car kept on powering off during the process despite a 70A power supply being attached to car. I had to disconnect the current sensor and run through the process again without opening the bleeders, and it ran through the linear valve relearn. Brakes have been fine since.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Maintenance day for Bluey!
Unknown when the last time the transmission and rear diff have ever been serviced, so I decided to do it before winter.
I really hate doing it like this, kind of sketchy, but it was actually solid.
Drained the transmission and only banged my arm against the exhaust once... Was tight, but easy work with a T70 torx and 24" breaker bar.
It definitely has been serviced at one point in its life, but definitely not recently. Plug magnet actually wasn't bad.
The fluid though...
Filling it up was a task in itself. Was able to get a transmission funnel (oh the irony?) wedged down behind the intercooler and into the fill/dipstick tube.
Kinda weird and neat is the dipstick for the manual. Never seen this before.
Next was the rear diff. Plugs didn't put up too much of a fight, but were in there good. Someone has been here before, but like the transmission, not recently.
Drain plug magnet wasn't too bad either.
Oil only had 1500ish miles on it, but while I had everything jacked up and sorta level figured what the heck.
Got the correct drain plug crush washer and oil filter.
All ready for winter!
Trying to treat the car a little better than the second owner. I love the little thing for some unknown reason
Unknown when the last time the transmission and rear diff have ever been serviced, so I decided to do it before winter.
I really hate doing it like this, kind of sketchy, but it was actually solid.
Drained the transmission and only banged my arm against the exhaust once... Was tight, but easy work with a T70 torx and 24" breaker bar.
It definitely has been serviced at one point in its life, but definitely not recently. Plug magnet actually wasn't bad.
The fluid though...
Filling it up was a task in itself. Was able to get a transmission funnel (oh the irony?) wedged down behind the intercooler and into the fill/dipstick tube.
Kinda weird and neat is the dipstick for the manual. Never seen this before.
Next was the rear diff. Plugs didn't put up too much of a fight, but were in there good. Someone has been here before, but like the transmission, not recently.
Drain plug magnet wasn't too bad either.
Oil only had 1500ish miles on it, but while I had everything jacked up and sorta level figured what the heck.
Got the correct drain plug crush washer and oil filter.
All ready for winter!
Trying to treat the car a little better than the second owner. I love the little thing for some unknown reason
Decided I'd had enough of shoveling, so the ol' Husky got an upgrade before the snow season arrives. $299 for the plow kit seemed like a no-brainer, and the installation couldn't have been easier.
I'm planning on dropping the trans out and getting some fresh fluid in before asking it to do any heavy pushing, hopefully the little K46 doesn't complain too badly. I'm shouldn't need any weights on the rear, tire chains should be plenty for the flat pushing I'll be doing.
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Put a starter on the Camry, because it started sounding like a 3 cylinder Mitsubishi Mirage when starting cold
219k on the factory starter, I guess it was tired
Remanned in USA Denso was used
View attachment 300552
View attachment 300555
OCI and ATF swap on the Fusion and Milan
Dual pans for efficiency
View attachment 300556
Remanned in USA with global components
Got the F150 running, Need to charge the A/C & test drive it.
Along with the belly pan, engine cover, final fluid checks.
Along with the belly pan, engine cover, final fluid checks.
Over the weekend friend's Camry with the 2AZ-FE overheated due to cracked radiator. He wasn't aware he was losing coolant until he saw smoke coming from the engine and the temperature gauge rose to H. Went to an auto parts store and got a new Denso radiator with 2 gallons of Beck and Arnley pink coolant.
So together we did:
-New radiator
-Front and rear brakes and rotors (Duralast Elite pads with Duralast Gold rotors)
-Bleed the brakes
-An oil change with Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage with Fram Ultra
All in 4 hours.
So together we did:
-New radiator
-Front and rear brakes and rotors (Duralast Elite pads with Duralast Gold rotors)
-Bleed the brakes
-An oil change with Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage with Fram Ultra
All in 4 hours.
Rebuilding/repairing my pool pump.
$12.00 bearings from the Jungle store, a lot better that $228.00 for a new motor.
I coated the inside of the front housing with Sherwin Williams 920 (2 part epoxy penetrating primer) then resprayed it.
$12.00 bearings from the Jungle store, a lot better that $228.00 for a new motor.
I coated the inside of the front housing with Sherwin Williams 920 (2 part epoxy penetrating primer) then resprayed it.
Pulling the engine on a 2013 Buick Enclave, LLT/6T70E....38,000 miles. I believe the mileage as it might the cleanest '13 Enclave to exist??
Came in from another shop because the engine is seized....Full of Coolant, Full of newish looking oil & Delco oil filter, No holes in the block, No metal in the oil.....
Was able to turn the crank back a ways then lock solid again....It's solid to, Not hydrolocked!
I'm guessing a valve is bent from a broken spring, I'll share what I find.
Came in from another shop because the engine is seized....Full of Coolant, Full of newish looking oil & Delco oil filter, No holes in the block, No metal in the oil.....
Was able to turn the crank back a ways then lock solid again....It's solid to, Not hydrolocked!
I'm guessing a valve is bent from a broken spring, I'll share what I find.
Not working on anything. Thyroid is soooo far hypo, I feel like I'm 100 yrs old. Waiting on meds to kick in . Will take a month.
Ignition system refresh for the AMX:
1 - New points and condenser: Accel 8104 point and condenser kit. 32oz spring tension, I don't drive it hard enough to need that much tension but the Accel point is, hands down, the best quality point set available today. This set is about 20 years old (brand new though) but I believe the new Accel sets are still good. I have a few sets in inventory still and I have the modern Delco and Bluestreaks but... these Accels are so much better.
2 - New distributor cap: 1990s Delco NOS from my inventory... last one. This is the solid gloss black thick quality cap of yore.
3 - New ignition wires: United-Packard Permashield-Delcore 7mm black, a decent stock looking wire replacement.
4 - New plugs: NGK G-Power Platinum, I usually buy Autolite but they seem scarce now. NGK has always been a good plug for me. Gasket style plug, 25 ft lbs.
5 - New distributor rotor: 1990's Delco NOS from my inventory, also my last one.
6 - New ignition coil: Bit of an experiment, I am trying a brand new Master-Pro 2-5195 based on some recommendations from other car guys using it. It is offshore but oil filled, not epoxy filled, for cooling which is hard to find now. I usually peel the sticker off and spray paint the good old reliable Accel 8140 (I don't like the bold yellow) but I have some 2-5195s in inventory so I thought I'd try it. So far so good. I have a spray painted 8140 in my Impala and also used an 8140 for decades in my old Judge.
Tune up data / specs:
Plug gap: I left the NGKs as they came out of the box, they varied from .035" to .038". Factory gap is .035". NGK does not advise altering the gap and I agree so I left everything alone.
Initial timing: 1 degree BTDC, factory setting is exactly TDC... car runs fine, I have to use 94, my usual 91 isn't good enough, I get pinging under acceleration. Motor is 10.3:1 and is super sensitive to octane. I am prepared to back this timing off a bit if need be. Cooling system is excellent, no issues in traffic or at full warp on the highway. No one in town has a synchrograph to really allow me to fine tune the curve. I can do it the hard way in my driveway with a timing light but... it is a big pain. Next speed shop order I'll get an adjustable can for the vacuum component, for now it is all stock (vacuum and mechanical weights and springs).
Dwell: The point window is hard to access on the car (thermostat bypass hose is in the way) so I didn't perfect the setting. I got it to 30.1 degrees and called it a day. I usually put a new set at 29 ish but the motor was hot, it is a hot day outside, I was sweating, I needed a Mountain Dew... I had had enough. Factory calls for 29-31.
Idle speed: About 750, distributor vacuum disconnected, that is factory and works well.
1 - New points and condenser: Accel 8104 point and condenser kit. 32oz spring tension, I don't drive it hard enough to need that much tension but the Accel point is, hands down, the best quality point set available today. This set is about 20 years old (brand new though) but I believe the new Accel sets are still good. I have a few sets in inventory still and I have the modern Delco and Bluestreaks but... these Accels are so much better.
2 - New distributor cap: 1990s Delco NOS from my inventory... last one. This is the solid gloss black thick quality cap of yore.
3 - New ignition wires: United-Packard Permashield-Delcore 7mm black, a decent stock looking wire replacement.
4 - New plugs: NGK G-Power Platinum, I usually buy Autolite but they seem scarce now. NGK has always been a good plug for me. Gasket style plug, 25 ft lbs.
5 - New distributor rotor: 1990's Delco NOS from my inventory, also my last one.
6 - New ignition coil: Bit of an experiment, I am trying a brand new Master-Pro 2-5195 based on some recommendations from other car guys using it. It is offshore but oil filled, not epoxy filled, for cooling which is hard to find now. I usually peel the sticker off and spray paint the good old reliable Accel 8140 (I don't like the bold yellow) but I have some 2-5195s in inventory so I thought I'd try it. So far so good. I have a spray painted 8140 in my Impala and also used an 8140 for decades in my old Judge.
Tune up data / specs:
Plug gap: I left the NGKs as they came out of the box, they varied from .035" to .038". Factory gap is .035". NGK does not advise altering the gap and I agree so I left everything alone.
Initial timing: 1 degree BTDC, factory setting is exactly TDC... car runs fine, I have to use 94, my usual 91 isn't good enough, I get pinging under acceleration. Motor is 10.3:1 and is super sensitive to octane. I am prepared to back this timing off a bit if need be. Cooling system is excellent, no issues in traffic or at full warp on the highway. No one in town has a synchrograph to really allow me to fine tune the curve. I can do it the hard way in my driveway with a timing light but... it is a big pain. Next speed shop order I'll get an adjustable can for the vacuum component, for now it is all stock (vacuum and mechanical weights and springs).
Dwell: The point window is hard to access on the car (thermostat bypass hose is in the way) so I didn't perfect the setting. I got it to 30.1 degrees and called it a day. I usually put a new set at 29 ish but the motor was hot, it is a hot day outside, I was sweating, I needed a Mountain Dew... I had had enough. Factory calls for 29-31.
Idle speed: About 750, distributor vacuum disconnected, that is factory and works well.
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The 3.6L LLT did break a valve spring, But the valve is down in the cylinder, Removing the cylinder head tomorrow.
Yerf Dog is officially finished. The last few items were putting on a Predator exhaust muffler, and a kill switch. I put on a few hours around the neighborhood and no issues. Next Sunday the kids will be racing at the family ranch.
Something a little different this week: new X739 getting absolutely decked out with a Curtis cab (including heat), 47" blower AND broom with hydraulic lift and tilt, all juiced up by an accessory alternator kit. My eyes are going cross from looking at horrendous JD instruction manuals
Of course, I'm picky as all hell about my installs so it's a slow process, but I know it'll be done right.
Engine is toast, Owner doesn't want a used wreaking yard engine but can't afford a GM crate engine either.
For awhile I've struggled with ratchet points on my trailer. I have 6 stake pockets, and D-Ring inserts on each, but still I need more flexibility. Wrapping a ratchet strap around L channel isnt acceptable, and I dont like the idea of bolting a rail system to the wood planks. After seeing and noticing big trailers have rails, I decided to weld some on, including the front. Doing a landfill run Saturday so we'll see how they work.
Is this a common occurrence on these engines or a one off / bad luck thing?
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- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
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I can honestly say I don't remember everything I've done this week. Lots of link bars, and I remember pressing studs into two sets of hub bearings. Productive week but I'm kinda glad it's the weekend tomorrow. Haven't been staying up on my exercises because I've been so tired. I've got to get some in this weekend, clean around the house and look at a neighbor's garage door for sure this weekend.
01 Tundra front brake inspection and relube.
Pulling the pads and hardware out for cleaning.
Reassembled and relubed with CRC Black brake grease.
Thinnest pad is at 4mm. Time to get pads + rotors on order. Yes I could've thrown on new brake parts while this is apart. No I will not pay the absurd 'need it now' price for OEM parts at the dealership. Maybe I could've gotten Akebono pads + NAPA rotors for this old truck but the pedal feel with OEM pads is unmatched with the past pads I've ran in this truck.
Pulling the pads and hardware out for cleaning.
Reassembled and relubed with CRC Black brake grease.
Thinnest pad is at 4mm. Time to get pads + rotors on order. Yes I could've thrown on new brake parts while this is apart. No I will not pay the absurd 'need it now' price for OEM parts at the dealership. Maybe I could've gotten Akebono pads + NAPA rotors for this old truck but the pedal feel with OEM pads is unmatched with the past pads I've ran in this truck.