What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
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- Jul 28, 2024
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I admit it was last weekend, but I did the 6 sparkplugs in my QX60. The originals had 140k km and I had ordered the new Ruthenium NGK's from the Canadian NGK store, Clubplug.ca Start to finish was about 3 hours, not hard but fussy with the intake manifold taking 2/3 of the time. I also cleaned the throttle body while it was removed. I should not need to do this again, EVER. The original Denso's looked really clean and even, no gaps exceeding 0.040".
Said goodbye to my latest endeavor
Didn't wind up making any money on it, due to my chronic perfectionism and a friend needing a cheap commuter
I saved myself tire kickers and just moved it on
I bought it in February
It's the finest $1500 Civic the city has ever seen
Aesthetically challenged, mechanically quite good
I got to advance many skills,
She's a runner, not a track star
If he gets 1-2 years out of it, I'll call that a win
It's giving pizza delivery vehicle
6 keys, if they lose them all that's on them
I'm now extremely well versed in high security key cutting, and all types of Honda reshelling/programming
Might be the only 2000s Honda with all dash backlighting working
Not a warning light in sight, or a maintenance due
Didn't wind up making any money on it, due to my chronic perfectionism and a friend needing a cheap commuter
I saved myself tire kickers and just moved it on
I bought it in February
It's the finest $1500 Civic the city has ever seen
Aesthetically challenged, mechanically quite good
I got to advance many skills,
- Diagnosing and repairing oil leaks
- J2534 PCM reflashing
- Key cutting and programming
- Electrical diag (bad MICU & ignition switch)
- Copious missing plastic clips
- Not knowing when to stop
- Losing the plot
She's a runner, not a track star
If he gets 1-2 years out of it, I'll call that a win
It's giving pizza delivery vehicle
6 keys, if they lose them all that's on them
I'm now extremely well versed in high security key cutting, and all types of Honda reshelling/programming
Might be the only 2000s Honda with all dash backlighting working
Not a warning light in sight, or a maintenance due
Last edited:
2020 Kia Sorento: rotate tires, oil change, replace splash shield at owner's request. I really think the first one got mangled because Jiffy Lube did not replace all the fasteners.
Used an Amazon splash shield and most of the holes were off. Had to slot most of them and create new holes entirely elsewhere. Good thing I stock M6 machine screws and clip nuts
That said, OEM is almost a heavy felt and this aftermarket is more of a rubbery plastic. What's the lesser of the evils? I'm really not sure.
I think the most important thing is don't go to Quickie Lubes and then it doesn't matter!
Used an Amazon splash shield and most of the holes were off. Had to slot most of them and create new holes entirely elsewhere. Good thing I stock M6 machine screws and clip nuts
That said, OEM is almost a heavy felt and this aftermarket is more of a rubbery plastic. What's the lesser of the evils? I'm really not sure.
I think the most important thing is don't go to Quickie Lubes and then it doesn't matter!
Replaced front rotors on 03 Matrix. Also changed the brake fluid and bled the brakes.
Dod this yesterday but was too sore to post.
New shocks new springs and engine oil.
New shocks new springs and engine oil.
Well, it's far from amazing tech but I serviced the rear diff in an '85 K20. I gotta say the semi-float 14b is a pretty good axle with an impressively long run. My parents' 2006 1500 VortecMax uses virtually the same unit, albeit 6 lug and somewhat different drum brake internals.
Anyway the gear oil was more the color of weak chocolate milk. Obvious condensation or water intrusion over the years, but nothing outlandish, either. For all I know it's the original fluid from '85. The diff cover was retained with orange RTV -- no idea if that's what the factory used.
A decent amount on the magnet, but again, not unexpected.
Bit of rust on inside of cover
Cleaned up and Lube Locker to go in
Like I said: hardcore tech
Anyway the gear oil was more the color of weak chocolate milk. Obvious condensation or water intrusion over the years, but nothing outlandish, either. For all I know it's the original fluid from '85. The diff cover was retained with orange RTV -- no idea if that's what the factory used.
A decent amount on the magnet, but again, not unexpected.
Bit of rust on inside of cover
Cleaned up and Lube Locker to go in
Like I said: hardcore tech
Thanks for the thumbs up 
My phone must be bugged because it shows it the correct side up.
My phone must be bugged because it shows it the correct side up.
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2024
- Messages
- 1,635
what shocks and springs did you use?Well, it's far from amazing tech but I serviced the rear diff in an '85 K20. I gotta say the semi-float 14b is a pretty good axle with an impressively long run. My parents' 2006 1500 VortecMax uses virtually the same unit, albeit 6 lug and somewhat different drum brake internals.
Anyway the gear oil was more the color of weak chocolate milk. Obvious condensation or water intrusion over the years, but nothing outlandish, either. For all I know it's the original fluid from '85. The diff cover was retained with orange RTV -- no idea if that's what the factory used. View attachment 298496
A decent amount on the magnet, but again, not unexpected. View attachment 298497
Bit of rust on inside of cover
View attachment 298498
Cleaned up and Lube Locker to go inView attachment 298499
Like I said: hardcore tech
This afternoon I replaced the front brake pads on my sons 2012 Silverado 1500. I did this almost exactly 2 years ago, so that's what happens when the truck is raised with BIG tires, extra effort to haul all that rotational mass down to zero. 27k km & 2 years and the Raybestos Element 3 pads were down to 2mm on average. Pads wore evenly, if quickly. This time I used PowerStop Evolution Ceramic and we'll see how they hold up. Rotors were not changed, well, because they still looked fine.
Yikes are the rear brakes contributing?
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2024
- Messages
- 1,635
The added mass may eat up ceramic pads. Heavier vehicles usually do better with a semi metallic pad
You could be right, I'll be monitoring the wear while he continues to live at home, but if he moves away next year after his Civil Engineering is done, then he can take the task.
Today I re-engineered the gear selector connector at the transmission on the '12 Silverado. This is a common problem that Dorman tries to suggest their assortment of plastic clips will resolve. DON'T BELIEVE 'EM. My son got very quick at replacing the selector cable onto the stupid little post, he had to do this 2x a day for the last week.
I removed the shift selector bracket from transmission, 15mm nut, and removed the swaged pin, drilled the hole to accept a 5/16" bolt and then cut the bolt short enough to avoid the front driveshaft. I also ground 2 mm from the head of the bolt so that it cleared the transmission pan as the gears are shifted through the PRNDL range. I saw the idea on YT, so I can't claim original idea.
I removed the shift selector bracket from transmission, 15mm nut, and removed the swaged pin, drilled the hole to accept a 5/16" bolt and then cut the bolt short enough to avoid the front driveshaft. I also ground 2 mm from the head of the bolt so that it cleared the transmission pan as the gears are shifted through the PRNDL range. I saw the idea on YT, so I can't claim original idea.
I would check. The type of wear you're talking about in ~16k freedom units is excessive.
I simply don't have any GMTs for comparison but the wife's '08 F150 is on 315/70/17 and brake wear just seems....normal. My JLUR is on 37" rubber and at 60k miles I haven't touched the brakes -- but I probably should inspect them. I know a JLUR is lighter but one would think a 1/2 ton pickup got brakes up-sized proportionally compared to an aluminum-tubbed Wrangler? That Silverado has to be rated to tow way more than a JLU.
Started installing the cargo area lighting , got the lights in place and the main power wire ran most of the way, but now I can start the actual wiring/ and then securing /looming the wire.
And yes, I am aware I placed the one light on the opposite side of the beam, I didnt mean to do that, wasnt paying attention, and yes it is bugging me alot, but I don't want to break the seal on the adhesive to move it.
And yes, I am aware I placed the one light on the opposite side of the beam, I didnt mean to do that, wasnt paying attention, and yes it is bugging me alot, but I don't want to break the seal on the adhesive to move it.
Shipped the skid plate which didn’t fit back to victory4x4. They have been fantastic to work with. I basically had to create a box with cardboard, tape and wood glue to hold the thing and have a chance at reaching the destination. Their cardboard is usually shredded when it gets here, and they know what they are doing - and I can’t even find packing tape that sticks to cardboard these days - and that includes 3M! Wood-glue sealed cardboard for the win. Out the door.
The Tacoma is not a lightweight at around 5,000 pounds, but the current -75 lbs of engine and transmission skids drops the nose more than you’d expect. Maybe 3/4”? But that extra weight down low is, ah, fun. Theres a little more confidence around corners. Kinda weird mod, but I’m pleased with it.
The Tacoma is not a lightweight at around 5,000 pounds, but the current -75 lbs of engine and transmission skids drops the nose more than you’d expect. Maybe 3/4”? But that extra weight down low is, ah, fun. Theres a little more confidence around corners. Kinda weird mod, but I’m pleased with it.