What are you working on today?

Tires rotated and all aired down to 60 psi. We might have a light towing this fall and once thats done, I'll air them down a bit more.

Hit the engine and cabin air filters with some air for good measure. Both are doing good.

I used the truck earlier to snag some junk from town, so I did a a fluid level check and everything is good And no leaks.

Maybe tomorrow I'll give the old girl a wash...
 
BrianF said:
Did a rear end and transfer case oil change on the old 3500 today. Went notably better than most times.... meaning, well i never accidentally kicked over an opening oil jug, hit my head or otherwise had a meltdown. The real kicker for me was leaving the black pail of 80w140 in the sun for an hour or more.

Tonight, I'll rotate the tires and adjust air pressure. Sure its sitting in the shop but the ambient outside is about 32C and as I said before, thats way to hot for my pasty azz.

Maybe tomorrow I'll remember to install the wireless camera in the little 3 horse bumper pull.
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I partially melted a 5 gallon bucket of gear oil warming it next to the wood stove one winter -- but it worked!!
 
Going to partially clearcoat the hood of my 06' Camry where I made a mess with touch up paint. Gonna look like crap, but I don't care. Using spray cans. Will be my daughter's 1st car, and she don't care either. She's just happy to get a good running car. Once it gets dirty, it will all blend in anyway.
 
Borrowed my buddy's 425 gal water tank and hauled five loads of water.

The tank has to be about 2' away from the cab due to my truck box. Still, with 424 gallons my '11 CCLB F350 didn't hardly know it was there. Still miles from the upper overloads and 75mph was no problem.

Years ago I specifically welded in a xmember of 1/4" wt 2" sq tube behind the truck box for this purpose. Lots of people around here wind up bowing the FRONT of their bed into the BACK of the cab in panic stops. That tank would crush a sheetmetal truck box if it wanted to, but now it's bombproof
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Wrapping up the cheap Civic, friend in need of a car is picking it up Monday
Amazon sold me the wrong lug nuts, gotta wait on ball seat style for these EX alloys
I was still bitter about paying $45 for iHDS, but not being able to reflash the PCM
I tried again with my new to me Autel/Otofix J box, and it worked flawlessly
So if you're trying to reflash a Honda with a Launch brand J2534 adapter, it might not work

Standard best practices still apply, charger on the laptop and a decent power supply to the cars 12v battery

I'm well aware of the irony that a $1500 Civic probably has bigger problems than some obscure TSB grumblings
When in Rome 🤷‍♂️
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Seeing as i had the time and my truck is still parked in the shop, why not check valve lash.... im at 184,000km and its not specified until 250k. Lash is spec is .010 intake and .026 exhaust. Word on the street is that you can bring in those numbers when deleted. I went for .010 and .020.

While this is a simple job mechanically, its a PIA in reality. Access to cylinder 6 required the entire might of my ganglion arms with me laying on the engine bay. I found that having two hands to work the feeler gauge in as the lash caps (lack of a better term) constantly played havoc with my efforts.

Most intake clearances were around 10 but a couple were under .008. The exhaust were all beyond .020.

The hardest part was the stupid cover for the egr crossover tube. For the life of me it would not line up. I got it started and there was a high probability that the little bolts were cross threaded and there was a 100% chance I didn't give a sht and zipped them on with the little impact.

Either way, it starts fine and is noticeably quieter when running. Maybe in 10 years I'll check it again.

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2014 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T with 19,424mi. Oil and filter change with Kirkland 5W30 Syn and a KИ oil filter.
Replaced the washer pump due to leakage because of a cracked junction, not a bad motor. The white part separates from the motor but can't be bought separately.
Changed the rear diff oil with Valvoline Syn 75W90 when I found out it was an AWD model and aired up the spare tire. Still rolling on the original tires, which I recommend replacing soon. I'll give it an okay to run since the car is garaged and did not see any significant sidewall cracks or dryrotting.
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K&N oil filter.
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michaelluscher said:
Wrapping up the cheap Civic, friend in need of a car is picking it up Monday
Amazon sold me the wrong lug nuts, gotta wait on ball seat style for these EX alloys
I was still bitter about paying $45 for iHDS, but not being able to reflash the PCM
I tried again with my new to me Autel/Otofix J box, and it worked flawlessly
So if you're trying to reflash a Honda with a Launch brand J2534 adapter, it might not work

Standard best practices still apply, charger on the laptop and a decent power supply to the cars 12v battery

I'm well aware of the irony that a $1500 Civic probably has bigger problems than some obscure TSB grumblings
When in Rome 🤷‍♂️
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Civic w/ a laptop, most feared thing at a stoplight.


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Taking a break from replacing a rear wheel bearing on my daughter's WJ. I managed to cut the old bearing race off this time without marring up the seal surface this time, so happy about that. Got the new seal installed the came man way... Drove the bearing on with the old locking ring and used a piece of pipe as a slide hammer.

After I finish this can of seltzer, I'll go reinstall the axle and then probably change the diff fluid with some Chevron EP-5 80W-90.
 
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Spent the afternoon replacing the oil filter housing, valve cover gaskets, and installing upgraded heater hose assemblies on my MIL's '15 Caravan. 115k on the clock, they just purchased it so I'm going through it making everything perfect.
 
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Last few days:

08 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4 with 198K- LOF, both cv axles, two ATF drain and refills, drive belt

24 Grand Highlander 2.4T with 15K - LOF and Tire Rotation. Customer declined cabin filter.

11 Prius with 246K - “Used Car PDI;” will be selling car to a friend next week. Tire rotation, smog inspection, alignment, rear wiper blade, install security screws for catalytic converter shield, top off fluids, brake fluid exchange, both key fob batteries, checked brakes, suspension and lights.

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So the other day, not sure if I said but the truck was dead. Possible drain from the horse trailer hooked up. Did a slow charge and got it started. Foe over two days it was in the shop getting some maintenance and all the while the 6 amp charger was hooked up. It never did take a full charge.

Today, while sitting and waiting for the car wash, I hooked up the Bully Dog tuner as it had been removed. Instantly I got P2509, U0101 and U0102. Never had the U codes but I had a similar low voltage code a time or two before. Meanwhile the truck drove fine. The truck cleared the CEL utter the codes are still stored.

Well the original batteries are over 8 years old and its very possible they were dying. Regardless, I picked up two new batteries and swapped them out in the parking lot of Cambodian Tire. Stayed with lead acid and 730cca.
 
14Accent said:
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Spent the afternoon replacing the oil filter housing, valve cover gaskets, and installing upgraded heater hose assemblies on my MIL's '15 Caravan. 115k on the clock, they just purchased it so I'm going through it making everything perfect.
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Looks great, however, if you didn't change the rockers, get ready for a second round. Unfortunately it's almost a guarantee some of them fail.
 
tired of unreliable wifi in the garage and didn't want to go the mesh.. access point... extender method. I had my isp disable their equipment routing so I could use my own, The downfall is they only enable one port on their modem/router equipment. so this is the temporary setup. two dedicated wireless networks the garage network is completely isolated from my homes network. will have to get busy on cable management tomorrow.
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Oil change on the gen 4 Taco 2.4L hybrid. Used Toyota genuine motor oil (TGMO) which from what I glean on this site is a gp III synthetic with an incredibly robust additive package - which I think is their choice with the prolific engine start/stop behavior in their hybrids. It’s not cheap oil, at around 60$ for a 6-pack, but it may be worth it in their case. Old oil dumped with 9,000 miles on it, and light still passed through it as it was draining. Since I’m under warranty, Toyota filter went on as well. There is a minor change in tone to the ear, but not significant.

Added 2 of 3 skid plates by Victory4x4. The third one (T-case) was dimensionally off by a country mile. We’ll see what they offer to do about it. Used aluminum for the nose, which was the right call. Ordered steel for the trans and T-case, and the weight is notable as the little truck surprisingly sits lower in the front now. I wish I’d gotten AL for that as well. This may have added 75 pounds - not that much. While I have only injured the bottoms of my vehicles maybe 3 times over the years, I do like how skids keep tall grass out of things such as the exhaust when I’m exploring. There is a reduced wind noise note, which was also a goal. I like the quiet. Ordered my first fumoto valve.

Made and tacked up a custom extension cord of Romex to bring power to the new garage door opener, Chamerberlain jack-shaft type, which has been flawless over the week. Note - had to raise the tail ends of the door track to give it a quicker starting descent as the motor would error out if the door seemed to not follow as it started downward. It’s a little quicker going up, and it’s quiet.

And where the old door opener used to be, I installed a nice “highbay light” from Home Depot that I’d just been using as a portable on a cord.
 
2005 Taco 4x4 with the V6 and manual trans -- love the manual!!

Anyway, owner says he just replaced the battery and now dash lights don't work, signals don't work and airbag light is on.

This guy has a tendency to PANIC!! so this is a good example of listening to the customer but just take it with a grain of salt.

I drove it and found no speedo movement, no signals, no a/c and airbag light on. Everything else worked, including hazards and all dash lights.

Before even thinking about a wiring diagram, I just took a look at fuses. Ultimately, I found the a/c fuse underhood simply missing altogether. That fixed up the a/c.

Then under the dash one of the IGN fuses was also just missing. I popped that in and turn signals and speedo returned. Neither fuse blew on a test drive.

I think the airbag light was caused by the missing IGN fuse, precluding the passenger airbag status lights from proving out at key-on. Cleared the B1660 and has not returned.

I have no idea how two fuses went missing. It's impossible to say what people do without a hidden camera. He was just thrilled that I "fixed" his truck on a Sunday evening
 
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