What are you working on today?

Basket case '05 Ram 1500 now with 299,318 miles:
-oil change
-swapped the headlight switch for one that's fog-capable and the fogs in the bumper now work!
-transmission service with pan drop. Never done a 545RFE before, kinda weird with a screen and spin-on filter both in the pan.

Also not sure why every automatic I touch lately has ONE mandatory stripped pan bolt :rolleyes:
 
The Mad Max Forester returned for an oil change. Now at 217,500 mi, I just keep bracing for something catastrophic.

My lift is tied up again so I had to work on the floor like a commoner. Oh the horror!
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When changing the oil on my mom's Fusion a couple weeks ago, I noticed the brake pads were all thinner than the pad backing plates. Drove up to my friend's small detached garage yesterday and did pads and rotors front and year and flushed the brake fluid. Its nice working in a shop with A/C.

Took that pic as we were headed to grab lunch with some of the hot rod guys in Santa Ynez. That Galaxie we were in just made around 1100rwhp and 1250ish torque. Its um... violent to ride in.

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bdcardinal said:
When changing the oil on my mom's Fusion a couple weeks ago, I noticed the brake pads were all thinner than the pad backing plates. Drove up to my friend's small detached garage yesterday and did pads and rotors front and year and flushed the brake fluid. Its nice working in a shop with A/C.

Took that pic as we were headed to grab lunch with some of the hot rod guys in Santa Ynez. That Galaxie we were in just made around 1100rwhp and 1250ish torque. Its um... violent to ride in.

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"small detached garage"

hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
 
Pablo said:
"small detached garage"

hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
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its 5000 sq-ft, but that was what the county called it. He jokes that he doesn't mind me working on my stuff there because "I'm not an idiot and he doesn't have to babysit me like everyone else."

The building has radiant heat flooring so when its in the 30s outside, we are working in t-shirt, shorts, and OSHA approved flip flops and safety squints inside.
 
cptbarkey said:
I've been having a mysterious time diagnosing a Kubota RTV900, she blows white metallic burning smelling smoke, knocks, and generally is way down on power. I narrowed it down to what I thought was an injector by cracking open each line while it was running. It died on two injectors, but didnt do anything on one injector. I swapped it with another known good injector (I have a spare blown d902), and I couldnt get the lines bled after multiple attempts. I went backwards in troubleshooting, bypassed the fuel tank, filter, created a Home Depot gravity gas tank, and the injection pump only spurts out 1 of 3 bores.

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I removed the injection pump, disassembled it, and I do see what might be a few parts not moving correctly, but in general everything looks fine, no broken springs. After comparing rebuilt parts costs vs a reman pump, I ordered a reman pump and we'll see what happens in a few weeks.

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New injection pump came in for the project RTV900. Didnt help. At least now I know my original injection pump is probably good and i'll reassemble it eventually.

Finally did what I should have done, compression test, cylinder #1 is way down, cylinder #2 is just under spec, #3 is barely at spec. I'm fairly certain I have an engine that was overheated or spun bearing. I'll take the head off next and inspect the cylinders. I'll be busy this next week transporting 3 more auction purchase UTVs, 1 gasser and 2 diesels. The gasser starts/runs, the diesels unknown.

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Took a dirty pan Wix sample, the oil looks good, no sludge, no fuel smell.

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- Replaced struts and shocks all around on our 2012 Santa Fe. KYB parts. Fairly easy to do. Once the ride height settles down in a few days, she'll get an alignment.
Car has about 145k miles and the 3.5L. Coolant change is next item. We've had decent luck with this car. I have no desire to stick with Hyundai again.
 
Some quick work on the 2001 Toyota Tundra:
Did a 'dry-run' with my new Speedi-bleed tool and did a complete brake fluid exchange. Using it dry took the 'speedi' out of the process by having to depressurize the unit and remove adapter cap to top the fluid in the reservoir.

While I was under the truck getting to the rear wheel cylinders, I gave the spare a couple whacks to see if it still had pressure. Feels empty. I've already drained the air compressor blowing leaves, so I brought out the Milwaukee M18 inflator instead. Empty it is. 1.5psi and since it's a load range E spare I gave the inflator a workout by filling the entire 80psi. Took it 12 minutes to bring it from 1.5 to 80psi with the tire hanging from the spare tire hanger.
 
Took the RV down to the parents for the holiday so had to set everything back up today. Brush hogged for another hour, going to start spraying next weekend. Brought up 3 implements and some wooden shipping container pieces I’ll eventually make some shelves in the container. Disced up the back area of the yard to start leveling it out better the result was alot of hedge pieces! That’ll be fun for the boys to pick up lol

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Yesterday I did an oil change, tire rotation and brake inspection on my neighbor's 2013 Chevrolet Impala, then the same on their 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. Both had plenty of pad life left. Free of charge since they sprung for the cookout and supplied their own oil and filters.
 
Son’s ceiling fan light flickers every now and then not a constant issue of concern. Did some troubleshooting not within the fan or light canopy kit itself.

Pulled the canopy kit down jumped out the pull chain switch with a cheater cord plugged it in to a wall socket still would flicker. Plugged into another room that’s on a different circuit no flicker. Yup I’m thinking a neutral on a backstabbed receptacle. New construction home wish me luck I have two bedrooms to pull apart and re-wire the receptacles using the screw terminals. Should also note guest bathroom that is between the two bedrooms has a 3 bulb vanity light that will have an occasional flicker. 🫨

Neutrals at the panel are guden’tite
 
Yesterday was a coolant flush, oil change, air filter replacement and a hand wash for this rig. I started by draining the coolant which was still ford orange and a small amount of black residue in the overflow bottle and then ran a garden hose in the overflow with the lower drain open until it ran clear. I then filled it with water and Motorcraft VC1 and ran it for 10 minutes at varied RPM with the heater on. Drained it again and ran the hose until it drained clear. I refilled, ran and drained two more times with distilled water after that. It was refilled with OTR brand 50/50 NOAT coolant from Fleetpride. The freeze point will be wrong for the time being due to the additional water in the system but I’m going to replace all of the hoses, thermostat and pump later this year so it will get another drain and fill at that time.

Oil out was Schaeffer 9000 5w30 and a Wix 51372
Back in was the same except a SuperTech ST2 and a pint of Schaeffer 132.

Also replaced the Wix air filter with a SuperTech. It had 30k miles on it and I’m glad I looked at it because the foam sealing ring was torn away from the filter on one side. The SuperTech felt nearly as good in the hand as the Wix.
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cptbarkey said:
New injection pump came in for the project RTV900. Didnt help. At least now I know my original injection pump is probably good and i'll reassemble it eventually.

Finally did what I should have done, compression test, cylinder #1 is way down, cylinder #2 is just under spec, #3 is barely at spec. I'm fairly certain I have an engine that was overheated or spun bearing. I'll take the head off next and inspect the cylinders. I'll be busy this next week transporting 3 more auction purchase UTVs, 1 gasser and 2 diesels. The gasser starts/runs, the diesels unknown.

View attachment 288151

Took a dirty pan Wix sample, the oil looks good, no sludge, no fuel smell.

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If that engine got hot it will crack the cylinder wall(s). I have one sitting at the farm right now that needs an engine. Thought it was the head gasket so I replaced it and had the head checked professionally and found nothing wrong. Reassembled it and it’s still pushing coolant. I’d plan on looking for an engine.
 
More tractor work at the place. Disc’ed the front section, not alot of sticks looks like. Worked more on the dirt-stick pile. Just when I thought I was at the bottom find another huge piece, need to get some debris forks. Could pick them out manually but that old hedge is heavy. Back up to the city after ugh.
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