Started wiring the Dakota with a brake controller. Ran the wire to the back and wire to the battery. Put the 7 pin back in. Just created a pigtail to hook it to the 4 pin. Just need to tie in the brake sense wire, land the ground and get a resettable breaker then hook to the battery. Alot of work but I’ll consider it practice.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Spent 4 or so more hours on the samurai exhaust donuts. One step forward 3 steps back.
The new LH rubber engine mount I installed the other day tipped the engine towards the RH side just enough that the RH engine mount steel shield was rubbing on the steel hard mount.
I removed the RH engine mount and ground down the shield, reinstalled everything. Vibration still there but greatly decreased.
Moved back to the new exhaust donuts. They still leaked badly so I added some 4mm washers for a bit of increased spring pressure since they’re 25 year old springs. It didn’t help and the donuts still leak. Decided to ignore the leak for a few days and hopefully some heat cycles and exhaust swaying will help the donuts bed in, at least that’s what I’m telling myself.
Closed the hood and now the engine hits due to the new engine mount being almost 10mm taller than the worn mounts I used to design the steel hard mounts.
The icing on the cake, my phone fell out my pocket and broke the screen protector in all 4 corners.
The new LH rubber engine mount I installed the other day tipped the engine towards the RH side just enough that the RH engine mount steel shield was rubbing on the steel hard mount.
I removed the RH engine mount and ground down the shield, reinstalled everything. Vibration still there but greatly decreased.
Moved back to the new exhaust donuts. They still leaked badly so I added some 4mm washers for a bit of increased spring pressure since they’re 25 year old springs. It didn’t help and the donuts still leak. Decided to ignore the leak for a few days and hopefully some heat cycles and exhaust swaying will help the donuts bed in, at least that’s what I’m telling myself.
Closed the hood and now the engine hits due to the new engine mount being almost 10mm taller than the worn mounts I used to design the steel hard mounts.
The icing on the cake, my phone fell out my pocket and broke the screen protector in all 4 corners.
Mostly building fencing panels for my non-profit. 1-1/4" sq tube frame with horse panel. If you cut 5x16' sheets in half you can make an 8x10' panel. We can do this at a fraction of the cost of heavy gauge chain link and the panels are more durable. Rust isn't really a concern here. Built on a jig I constructed around 2009.
Panel on jig
Lots of welds
The center seam is busy
I gusset the corners although almost surely not necessary
Panel on jig
Lots of welds
The center seam is busy
I gusset the corners although almost surely not necessary
Well, as quickly as I solved the misfire, rough idle on the Sunfire, after a couple heat cycles, it was back... and worse. Last night, coming home from work, I parked along the dark road and popped the hood. Wow, those wires really are worn out, looked like fireworks.
Napa has some wires on order so I removed them one by one, cleaned the contacts and reseated them on the plugs. Of course it now works great, new wires it is.
Napa has some wires on order so I removed them one by one, cleaned the contacts and reseated them on the plugs. Of course it now works great, new wires it is.
Got the injectors out last night. Progress was slowed by the connectors not wanting to push through the rocker box. I have the special tool, Rotunda 303-1115, but they wouldn't budge. Sprayed the WD on there and did other things letting it soak. Used a 19mm thinwall socket to help push on them and then the Rotunda tool to get them all out. Progress was also slowed by neighbors walking by wanting to talk. I'm generally really nice, but when I am chasing sunlight I get annoyed. Anyway here are some pics of what a 6.0 looks like without the injectors in, so I guess this counts as more under valve cover pics. Yes, the copper washers all came out with the injectors. I used a MityVac 7201 to suck out any oil that may have gone into the cylinders, but there wasn't any. I think letting it sit for a few days resulted in the oil draining back down to the sump.
Not working on it tonight, my mom is going to Michigan for a wedding in the morning and wants to go to dinner before she goes. Will hit it hard probably tomorrow night and then over the weekend. I miss driving this thing. Still stuck on more "while you are there" things.
Not working on it tonight, my mom is going to Michigan for a wedding in the morning and wants to go to dinner before she goes. Will hit it hard probably tomorrow night and then over the weekend. I miss driving this thing. Still stuck on more "while you are there" things.
I always wondered about Rotunda because rotund means plump. Things that make you go HMMMMM...
My next tool name: Obese-ia. Nailed it!
Troubleshooting the humming/howling noise from the front end of our 2011 G37x. Trying the easy thing first: swapping front and rear tires. Suspect something worse (wheel bearing, differential bearing, transfer case bearing) but tires are easy enough to check as a starting point.
Finished the Dakota's brake controller wiring... next truck will have a plug and play! Just used the dreaded scotch lock on the brake sense wiring. Seems to work but the trailer brakes just hummm and don't seem to do much. They haven't been used for over 15 years so maybe they'll come around. In the mean time looked at why the driver's blinker was so much dimmer versus the passenger. Well when I put the new lights in I thought they swapped coloring, they tapped a green into the brown. Swapped the wiring and as bright as they should be.
The brakes should hum and ideally should reach lockup. They should pull 3 amps or so at max per drum. If they aren’t pulling 3 amps (max) per drum at 12V, then there is a wiring fault, or 9 of them, in the trailer. Trailer brake wiring is usually awful, sometimes as they sit new on the lot. I ended up redoing every connection on the two I’ve owned, both to significantly better results, soldered and sealed. Just because they look good doesn’t mean they are electrically sound.
Washed the BMW and Dakota. “Instructed” the boys.. teenagers so more yelled at.. they mowed the yard, de-weeded and picked up trash. Need to teach them to trim. I picked the weeds around the roses and put sprinkled sevin dust on them. Cleaned the carb and fired up the old Craftsman in the other thread. Pulled the solenoid to get a replacement. Worked 4:30a-1p and felt like crude, figured get something done. Tractor shopping tomorrow!
I’ll get the amp clamp and check it.Probably just needs adjusted . Connections do look ok and its been stored in a barn. I did get the same voltage at the controller and at the brakes.
Check the grounds. You need 12V across the brakes from + to -.
Looks like a clean example.....I see a lot of 6.0L Powerstrokes that have been hacked to death under the hood!
There's a white/beige(gold?) 2006 king ranch F250 CCSB right around the corner from me that's been sitting for a couple years.....I've thought about seeing what's going on with it but a clean looking truck like that is sitting for a reason!
Finally got the new wires in. Much smoother!! Now that's she's actually firing on all cylinders, I can do a monitor of the oxygen sensor and see if that's good and then i figured I should check the pulleys and water pump for play. I really like this little beater for commuting!
I've just been slowly working on this since I have other vehicles. I don't want to forget anything either.
Oil change without too much pain
Been BUSY at the shop, Mostly work for car lots & auto repair shops...Which means electrical diag & repair!
2020 Suburban 5.3L/6L80, Intermittent no crank.....Needs a starter. The car lot paid the diag fee instead of letting me install a starter??
2008 Sierra 3500 LMM Duramax/Allison 1000.....Short to ground on the turn signal circuit blowing the left turn signal BCM fuse. Left front door harness was a mess, The short was caused by someone pinching the mirror harness while poorly installing the door panel....But also have several broken wires in the rubber flex bellow (Common GMT900 problem)....Now all the windows go up & down!
Air Bag light on & service airbag message in DIC....No communication with SDM (airbag module), Checked for power & grounds at the module along with the Serial Data waveform (Single wire GMLAN) via the Pico. Module was heavily corroded/oxidized but the connector & terminals looked great.
Advised the dealer it needed a new SDM.....This is a relatively new client & got a little push back on my diag stating that it had codes in the module & his "scan tool" would communicate with the SDM. Said you're more than welcome to get a second opinion & I'll wave the diag fee.....However, If you bring it back here wanting a SDM.....I will charge you that diag fee on top of the repair!
He decided to go buy a new SDM from the dealer & let me install it, I warned him that there could be other component problems in the airbag system that can't be easily diagnosed with a dead SDM & that it may need more than simple coding via a scan tool.
He brings the new module saying the parts guy said it's "Plug & Play", I said "We'll see about that". Of course it was not plug & play.....The scan tool would do the handshake between the BCM & SDM but would not configure the module (Tried my Tech2, Autel Elite, & Snap-on Solus Plus).
Called him & said I need to program the module with GM SPS3.....More push back because what the parts guy said, I'm getting frustrated at this point & said take it to the parts guy & have him configure the module correctly! He all the sudden changed his tune like he hasn't pushed back all day?? I think he's trying to see how far he can take things.....If he brings another car & continues this I'll run him off as I don't have time for it!!!!!
BTW...Once the SDM was programmed via SPS3....The scan tool would finish configuring/coding the module. No component DTC's like the owner stated!
2012 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost/6R80 4x4, Auction Rat. Dealer bought it cheap knowing it needs engine work.
I think it broke the primary timing chain by the way it sounds cranking it (No compression). Pulling the cab to inspect the engine.
Got almost ready to lift the cab except for the heater hoses, I was out of gas for the day....For the week truth be told!! It will be there Monday.
The two captured nut broke loose from their cages on the two core support mount bolts....If you know you know!
Decided to make a special tool to back-up the nuts with a socket, Had a old 1/2" drive breaker bar.....Heated & bent it so it would clear the radiator. Had to heat & bend it twice
as it needs to be opposite to fit the other side. Going to buy a HF breaker bar & modify it so I have a left & right tool.
2020 Suburban 5.3L/6L80, Intermittent no crank.....Needs a starter. The car lot paid the diag fee instead of letting me install a starter??
2008 Sierra 3500 LMM Duramax/Allison 1000.....Short to ground on the turn signal circuit blowing the left turn signal BCM fuse. Left front door harness was a mess, The short was caused by someone pinching the mirror harness while poorly installing the door panel....But also have several broken wires in the rubber flex bellow (Common GMT900 problem)....Now all the windows go up & down!
Air Bag light on & service airbag message in DIC....No communication with SDM (airbag module), Checked for power & grounds at the module along with the Serial Data waveform (Single wire GMLAN) via the Pico. Module was heavily corroded/oxidized but the connector & terminals looked great.
Advised the dealer it needed a new SDM.....This is a relatively new client & got a little push back on my diag stating that it had codes in the module & his "scan tool" would communicate with the SDM. Said you're more than welcome to get a second opinion & I'll wave the diag fee.....However, If you bring it back here wanting a SDM.....I will charge you that diag fee on top of the repair!
He decided to go buy a new SDM from the dealer & let me install it, I warned him that there could be other component problems in the airbag system that can't be easily diagnosed with a dead SDM & that it may need more than simple coding via a scan tool.
He brings the new module saying the parts guy said it's "Plug & Play", I said "We'll see about that". Of course it was not plug & play.....The scan tool would do the handshake between the BCM & SDM but would not configure the module (Tried my Tech2, Autel Elite, & Snap-on Solus Plus).
Called him & said I need to program the module with GM SPS3.....More push back because what the parts guy said, I'm getting frustrated at this point & said take it to the parts guy & have him configure the module correctly! He all the sudden changed his tune like he hasn't pushed back all day?? I think he's trying to see how far he can take things.....If he brings another car & continues this I'll run him off as I don't have time for it!!!!!
BTW...Once the SDM was programmed via SPS3....The scan tool would finish configuring/coding the module. No component DTC's like the owner stated!
2012 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost/6R80 4x4, Auction Rat. Dealer bought it cheap knowing it needs engine work.
I think it broke the primary timing chain by the way it sounds cranking it (No compression). Pulling the cab to inspect the engine.
Got almost ready to lift the cab except for the heater hoses, I was out of gas for the day....For the week truth be told!! It will be there Monday.
The two captured nut broke loose from their cages on the two core support mount bolts....If you know you know!
Decided to make a special tool to back-up the nuts with a socket, Had a old 1/2" drive breaker bar.....Heated & bent it so it would clear the radiator. Had to heat & bend it twice
as it needs to be opposite to fit the other side. Going to buy a HF breaker bar & modify it so I have a left & right tool.