What are you working on today?

Transmission installed in the Silverado yesterday & good long test drive today.

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Nothing too exciting: 2013 F250, rear brake job with new rotors, semi-metallic CQ pads from RA, slider pins and boots. I put together an inexpensive kit from RA
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Also oil change on same vehicle (6.2) with a Purolator "Tech" (white) filter and almost finished off my stash of RGT from the great RGT marketing failure of....2019, was it?? I used 5W20 'cause I've got way too much and Ford technically spec'd it but I think 5W30 is better.
 
EPS coupler on a '13 Elantra
71k, believed to be original
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I put the supposedly improved part in from my Hyundai dealer, $2
Getting it apart was easy, getting that 14mm thru bolt down the column back through was a chore
And of course, disconnecting the battery made the idle unstable, so I had to clean the throttle body
Change the tail light bulbs, do a SAS reset, and it's much better
Now there's a clunking outside the column, might need a tie rod or sway bar link
So is life 🤷‍♂️

I charged $220 for this job, which I feel is reasonable
I doubt anyone around here would do it for less

After
 
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Decided to take another look at my little Hyundai hy2000si genset. Last fall I tried to run it and she calved out on me. Started like usually does when cold but when fiddling with the choke, she'd died and unable to restart. Cannot get spark. Plug tested fine in another piece of OPE. I don't have anything to test spark, other than a multimeter.

Cranking it over got me around 30VAC at the plug wire. Tore it all down and found the magnets full of rust. Buffed them down and regapped the coil. Now about 33VAC but still no spark. Ohmed out the coil, which seemed fine. Best I can figure is the CDI died.

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EPS coupler on a '13 Elantra
71k, believed to be original
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I put the supposedly improved part in from my Hyundai dealer, $2
Getting it apart was easy, getting that 14mm thru bolt down the column back through was a chore
And of course, disconnecting the battery made the idle unstable, so I had to clean the throttle body
Change the tail light bulbs, do a SAS reset, and it's much better
Now there's a clunking outside the column, might need a tie rod or sway bar link
So is life 🤷‍♂️

I charged $220 for this job, which I feel is reasonable
I doubt anyone around here would do it for less

After

I'd happily do it for $13,000 and cry about it....you work too cheap....
Amazing 👏
 
Yesterday partially cleaned the basement, first major clean up in years. So much dust I just felt awful after working down there all day. And I took a break every 1.5-2hrs for a breather. Goes to show how much dust filters down through the floor. I vacuumed up a big shop vac worth of dirt and 2 bags of trash. I'm starting to see why these old guys leave their places for others to clean it up. It's to hard to toss some stuff. When we get the new place I'm taking truck loads of drywall and other boards and just having a big fire, the dump here is too expensive. Not even done have one HF bucket full of rusty hardware, anything rusty gets tossed. Going to continue all this week. The weather has been crazy so better get a place to shelter ready.
 
Yesterday was fun with my new mini dump. I was able to cut down about 12 round trips at various material piles. Filled up a horse wallow, and rebuilt a berm that had eroded, it protects the water tank from uphill flooding. Eventually I'm going to redirect water to a new pond instead of letting it go downhill.

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New thermostat in '11 Silverado with 4.3 due to the notorious "Panic I'm Overheating and a/c is Disabled" message -- which apparently actually happens when the t-stat sticks open and the truck isn't hitting operating temp.

This is a tough one to explain to your customer. I told him the truck needs to go to counseling to learn better communication skills.

My dealer couldn't seem to obtain a thermostat in this millenia. NAPA could get one in a day or two but then I'd have to drive to NAPA and they were $10 more.

I was able to get one from RA via UPS Ground in the same time NAPA would take, it comes to my door, and it was $10 less all-in.

The (sealed) bag says Made in Mexico so that's better than China:
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Easiest t-stat ever. I didn't touch anything except the two bolts for the water neck. You can get the back bolt easily with a swivel and extension

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Got working lights on the 1972 Honda CL100 again. New headlight found on Amazon, and was pleased to see it arrived in a box marked Honda genuine parts. Also found a newer signal flasher since the old one had pretty much decided the turn signals should remain solid. Must be a solid state flasher, it's completely silent and works great. Other than spending a little too long looking for a missing nut and spring that had fallen on the floor among the leaves that had blown in, the bike is back together.

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Got working lights on the 1972 Honda CL100 again. New headlight found on Amazon, and was pleased to see it arrived in a box marked Honda genuine parts. Also found a newer signal flasher since the old one had pretty much decided the turn signals should remain solid. Must be a solid state flasher, it's completely silent and works great. Other than spending a little too long looking for a missing nut and spring that had fallen on the floor among the leaves that had blown in, the bike is back together.

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I had so much fun on a 100cc Honda like that as a kid. Same color if not the exact same model.
 
1995 Chevy 1500 5.7L/4L60E, Complaint of ATF spewing out of the vent.......Line Pressure Tap Plug missing. Installed a plug, Filled it with ATF & test drove it. Other than a harsh 1-2 shift it operates correctly. These plugs (1/8" NPT) don't just fall out unless someone loosened or removed it altogether. Owner seemed seemed clueless & didn't care long as it's fixed.

2002 F150 5.4L/4R70....Misfire, Plugs & Coils.

1979 Chevy C10, 6.0L/4L60E swapped......Mounted A/C Condenser & made/crimped A/C hoses, Charged with 134a.
 
New thermostat in '11 Silverado with 4.3 due to the notorious "Panic I'm Overheating and a/c is Disabled" message -- which apparently actually happens when the t-stat sticks open and the truck isn't hitting operating temp.

This is a tough one to explain to your customer. I told him the truck needs to go to counseling to learn better communication skills.

For all the ECM knows it is overheating from low coolant (ECT not being covered/submerged in coolant)
 
This was yesterday, but anyways.

Friend is on vacation so on top of things to do here at the house I have their 2003 S10. Got an oil change and quick wipedown of the interior. They're a serious smoker so I ain't going too crazy... :sick:

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Remote oil filter lines are leaking naturally and needs idler pulleys. Was going to swap in new door pin bushings, but my tool is missing for the spring.
 
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