My last project was this 1999 Snapper disc drive mower.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I reflashed my first PCM today 
Didn't even brick it
FORScan on a '16 Fusion 2.0 EB, there's been 3 software revisions (-KB to -KE)
Was hoping it would fix the intermittent P0234 and chugging/stumble), but it didn't
There was a TSB saying to do this, but it was for '17 MY Fusions
Paid FORScan beta was the software, using the Launch Smart link J2534 box, and the Clore 20 amp power supply I bought specifically for safer reflashing
After shotgunning the cheapest and easiest repair at it (reflash), I did the best visual inspection I could with my phone outside in the cold/dark
That looks like cracked plastic, rust jacking
Its getting a
"Valve Assy - Rubber
Wastegate Solenoid With Hoses"
Because I can't readily get a hold of the cross reference Pierburg/Bosch part number for that solenoid
So, an overpriced Ford part with new hoses and clamps will have to do
A few years back, it got the boost solenoid on the valve cover, and both MAP/CAC Boost pressure sensors (all OE Motorcraft) so I doubt they're the issue
86,000 miles
Hope this fixes it
Didn't even brick it
FORScan on a '16 Fusion 2.0 EB, there's been 3 software revisions (-KB to -KE)
Was hoping it would fix the intermittent P0234 and chugging/stumble), but it didn't
There was a TSB saying to do this, but it was for '17 MY Fusions
Paid FORScan beta was the software, using the Launch Smart link J2534 box, and the Clore 20 amp power supply I bought specifically for safer reflashing
After shotgunning the cheapest and easiest repair at it (reflash), I did the best visual inspection I could with my phone outside in the cold/dark
That looks like cracked plastic, rust jacking
Its getting a
"Valve Assy - Rubber
Wastegate Solenoid With Hoses"
Because I can't readily get a hold of the cross reference Pierburg/Bosch part number for that solenoid
So, an overpriced Ford part with new hoses and clamps will have to do
A few years back, it got the boost solenoid on the valve cover, and both MAP/CAC Boost pressure sensors (all OE Motorcraft) so I doubt they're the issue
86,000 miles
Hope this fixes it
Frustrating day on '07 Ram 2500.
First, rear wheel seal, and that went ok
Then, front brakes. I recently did these but at the time he had Endurance Auto Insurance (what a PITA), and through a completely irrational and nonsensical conversation, they would only approve the RF brake hose and LF caliper back then. Well, now the RF caliper locked up and took the pads down to metal.
Ok, got a reman caliper from O'Reilly. I was so proud of myself because I remove the barely-lubed slider pins and use a Q-tip to work the good ACD grease into the pleats. I'm such a good mekanik and a good person! <<--HEAVY sarcasm
Hooked up my Branick bleeder only to find I have a self-bleeding piston (and obviously the dust boot isn't too happy, either). Sigh. Now to hope I can find another reman caliper on a Saturday...
First, rear wheel seal, and that went ok
Then, front brakes. I recently did these but at the time he had Endurance Auto Insurance (what a PITA), and through a completely irrational and nonsensical conversation, they would only approve the RF brake hose and LF caliper back then. Well, now the RF caliper locked up and took the pads down to metal.
Ok, got a reman caliper from O'Reilly. I was so proud of myself because I remove the barely-lubed slider pins and use a Q-tip to work the good ACD grease into the pleats. I'm such a good mekanik and a good person! <<--HEAVY sarcasm
Hooked up my Branick bleeder only to find I have a self-bleeding piston (and obviously the dust boot isn't too happy, either). Sigh. Now to hope I can find another reman caliper on a Saturday...
If I were on the Saharan plains being hunted by War Boys, sure. But on a customer's truck....I think I can manage to just get another one
Modified a hydraulic cylinder for the top link on my 5100e John Deere today. Been wanting a hydraulic top link for a while but wasn’t happy with the off the shelf cylinder dimensions. This one was from Surplus Center and had the right size ball swivels but the one on the cylinder was too close to the tube to pin it on the tractor without interfering with the top link clevis. Cut the swivel off, cut a piece of 1/2” plate and made a spacer. Worked great and will allow me to tilt our bale unroller down to do a better job of unrolling a hay bale.
Some photos of working in the snow from the last few days. Even the corgi needed four wheel drive to get around 
Where did you get a Deere that can grow from small to big like that?Some photos of working in the snow from the last few days. Even the corgi needed four wheel drive to get around
View attachment 258451
View attachment 258452
View attachment 258453
View attachment 258454
View attachment 258455
New interior door handle RF 2008 Sierra.
This time I decided to go uber cheap and try replacing just the handle portion. I ordered this SKP set from RA for ~$14 (plus shipping of course). Despite how the box reads this gets you a left and right for front or rear doors:
Old piece, peeling "chrome":
New:
This time I decided to go uber cheap and try replacing just the handle portion. I ordered this SKP set from RA for ~$14 (plus shipping of course). Despite how the box reads this gets you a left and right for front or rear doors:
Old piece, peeling "chrome":
New:
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Just watched Martin Bros restore an old Galaxie into a custom …
They almost always use a SBC/BBC … so thought it was funny how they couldn’t get over the sound of a Coyote
I'm working on my income tax. Ugg
New parking brake cable on '91 Toy p/u. I've done this on Tacos and it's not too bad. But the earlier trucks run the cable from left to right over the bellhousing. What a PITA. I finally resorted to using my poly fish tape to feed it over and that worked pretty well. I think it was previously in a retainer up in there somewhere, but access is impossible unless maybe I could get there through the shifter hole, which I'm not really inclined to try.
have too take apart the front of my 2003 kia sorento to replace crankshaft sensor on the engine but its been too damm cold for weeks here
Just some simple odds and ends. My wife took a horse to the University Veterinary College. Borrowed a nice aluminum 2 horse trailer. So upon return, I powerwashed the truck and trailer as it was coated in salt and road grime.
Then, did some reading on this site about wiper blade chatter. The wiper arm on the driver side of my 3500 had a slight cant, which was rectified and now it's smooth as can be.
Today the temp was about 0c so I removed the winter front on the 3500 before the tow. Friday temps drop back to the -30c mark, so the winter is back on.
Then, did some reading on this site about wiper blade chatter. The wiper arm on the driver side of my 3500 had a slight cant, which was rectified and now it's smooth as can be.
Today the temp was about 0c so I removed the winter front on the 3500 before the tow. Friday temps drop back to the -30c mark, so the winter is back on.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,210
Tuesday
2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3 V8
Replaced oil pressure sensor
1998 Ford F-150
Replaced battery, battery terminals and wiper blades
Wednesday
2005 Chevrolet Trailblazer
Replaced oil pressure sensor, front brake pads and rotors, changed oil
2007 Audi A4 with B7 brakes
Replaced front brake pads and rotors
2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3 V8
Replaced oil pressure sensor
1998 Ford F-150
Replaced battery, battery terminals and wiper blades
Wednesday
2005 Chevrolet Trailblazer
Replaced oil pressure sensor, front brake pads and rotors, changed oil
2007 Audi A4 with B7 brakes
Replaced front brake pads and rotors
I drilled the cases of my game cameras and mounted them on some various cedar cut off boards I had saved, caulk and stainless screws. I got sick of the supplied cheap straps, now I can mount them wherever, however. (Bungees, straps, screws, nails, clamps, etc). Clear day and sun felt warm.
The Toyota parking brake cable continues to fight me. There's an arm at the frame which pivots, being pulled by the cable. The cable has an eyelet retained by a mini hitch pin.
The pin was rusted into the eyelet of the failed cable. I could rotate the pin and eyelet together but couldn't get the pin to rotate independently, allowing me to remove it (push it out). Even getting it smoking with my mini-ductor made no difference.
Finally I went looking for a way to press it out. Was trying to avoid the air hammer as it would likely send the pin flying. I stumbled upon this door hinge pin tool in my box and it worked perfectly
The pin was rusted into the eyelet of the failed cable. I could rotate the pin and eyelet together but couldn't get the pin to rotate independently, allowing me to remove it (push it out). Even getting it smoking with my mini-ductor made no difference.
Finally I went looking for a way to press it out. Was trying to avoid the air hammer as it would likely send the pin flying. I stumbled upon this door hinge pin tool in my box and it worked perfectly