What are you working on today?

I have 2 Mini split installs, one I did myself which is top quality, and one I got a local highly rated company to install. They've done as much wrong as possible. The drain connects to a 3/4 PVC pipe just with some tape, nothing else, not secured in any way, and then just runs down the foundation.

Since pouring my concrete slab I can now grade the area correctly now the AC is about 5 inches higher than it was before, however I had to fix that drain first

How they installed it, as if that will hold...

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Anchored in place now

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These 1 inch clamps are THE BEST for 3/4 Pipe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QS66F23

And got the pipe to come across and over to where the regular AC drain is, so its not directly against the foundation

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2003 Corolla: 252,400 miles

Did the rear brakes today, boy do I dislike doing drum brakes haha. Always a bear but got it done. Used the power stop full kit overall pretty impressed, drums were coated which was a surprise! Had to file the shoes a little bit to get the adjusters to work but not too bad. Also replaced both wheel cylinders and rear right hub assembly.

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Kept burning horn fuses so I checked horn wiring. No shorts or breaks in the wiring after using a DMM to probe horn wiring harness and fusebox so need to physically check horns.

Signs of water ingestion in the High Tone horn. The right-side horn opening was pointing up towards the rear of the parking lamp so water got ingested when it rains.
Water and algae came pouring out. Who knows how long this horn was inoperable.
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Location behind the headlight bracket for the pass. side.
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Location of horn on the driver side. 10mm nut behind the horn and it easily slides out.
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Factory horn and NAPA replacement FIAMM horn.
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The NAPA horn comes with different connectors that clip on to the two post terminals on the back of the horn. It came with the Delphi connector to clip onto the body harness.

Mounted the horn so the opening points down given the slack in the wiring harness. The driver side had no issues but changed it out too.
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Sounds much better and louder now. I've just noticed the high tone + low tone working together now since it's sounds like a single tone horn all this time.
 
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As always, fixing work done by "pro's" on my house

This window let some water into the wall during hurricane Beryl. There was a 1x1/4x8ft PVC trim peice along the bottom which was caulked good on the BOTTOM, but not the top... It had also come away from the window because they had applied it too soon after using spray foam insulation around the window

There was specifically big gaps where the arrows are

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I was going to take the trim off, clean it up and put it back, but it snapped. Taking it off revealed some big gaps they never sealed

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I bought some 1/8 thickness Aluminum bar to use instead of the cheap PVC

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I filled the bigger gaps with spray foam and caulked the rest real good, put a good layer of construction adhesive down, and then put the flat bar once I ground it down in some spots to clear the brick. Right now its drying, and I'll leave it a good 24 hours

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Once done, I'm going to prime, paint and caulk, and it should be good forever!
 
1998 Honda Civic 250,000 miles. I’ve owned for roughly 10 years, put about 75,000 miles on it. Never been opened up as far as I know. I’ve put a timing belt on it when I first got it . Today was Plugs/cap/rotor/wires, valve cover gasket.
Change oil twice a year with whatever frankenbrew oil I have around. Maybe gets 5-6,000 miles a year.
Black spots below rockers is oil, no sludge at all.

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Had some minor issues with myn2017 Ram 3500. I know the batteries are getting weak but usually I will have a 3 amp tender on frome time to time. Lately not as it's been sitting unused. Previous to our cold spell it gonged me and said reduced power while it was running for a while and up to temp. Usually indicates batteries are low and the alternator isn't keeping up.

Last night was -30c ambient but slowly warned up to about -20. Plugged the block heater in for an hour and then for fun, I did not command start it, just key in and crank. She was not happy, sputtered, died and then came to life in a rough way.

Through codes P046C and P2560. Funny as the first is EGR related ( mine is deleted) and the last being low coolant. They eventually cleared but found the coolant just below the minimum. So I guess I should get some top up and monitor.

Tomorrow we might go test drive a 2006 Trailblazer as another runabout. My kid will be going for her license this month and or next. If she passes, having another vehicle would help.
 
I'll be working at home the rest of the year, and only doing smaller jobs at that. Today was a 1994 GMC Sierra 4wd in for front brakes and an oil change. I turned the rotors(low use farm truck) and replaced the front pads. Going to use some of this free time to go to the gym more often and enjoy my pistols
 
2000 Ram 1500:
-centered steering wheel by adjusting drag link (he hit something, I don't wanna know)
-replaced battery hold down
-fixed a NO BUS by simply removing and reseating the instrument cluster. The vehicle would run but had no gauges and every error light along with the NO BUS text in the odo
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Replaced the blower motor on the Corolla, straight forward.

The week before I had to replace the rear passenger door handle. That was a PIA, since I have the window rollers and I couldn’t get the thing off! So I wedged a screw driver after taking off the door panel to create a gap.

Oh! And the week before that I swapped tires for winter on my Mom’s RAV4 and my Corolla. While I had them on the jack, I sprayed both the cars with fluid film, a little rust protection goes a long way (Toronto). They use way to much salt here, it’s terrible.
 
Was a Ram kinda day I guess. I adjusted the rear brakes on the 2000 Ram 1500 for a guy at my non-profit. The auto adjuster on one side had gone wonky but I got it put back. Then I decided to bleed the rears simply as PM, but a bleeder snapped off:
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I still bled the other side and called it good. No time to deal with a broken bleeder, esp for this guy.

Then the '98 Ram 1500 at my non-profit had a parking brake cable get really sticky. This is the same truck that recently lost a rear wheel on that side, but I pulled the drum again and it's just coincidence. Note the leaf pack, upper overloads on a 1500 and u-bolt flip, all custom:
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Finally my non-profit backed their '12 Ram 1500 into a Toyota, breaking the Ram's tail light. On Black Friday we happened to be traveling and I had grabbed used tail light and headlight lenses from a FB MP listing a couple towns over. $45 for all four in good shape. I bought them "just in case" because my non-profit is hard on vehicles. Then a few days later I needed one of them. Times like this I feel like a clairvoyant genius.....
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As always, fixing work done by "pro's" on my house

This window let some water into the wall during hurricane Beryl. There was a 1x1/4x8ft PVC trim peice along the bottom which was caulked good on the BOTTOM, but not the top... It had also come away from the window because they had applied it too soon after using spray foam insulation around the window

Well it finished. I think if I were to do it again, I could get it neater. My calking is not up to par I think! However, it won't leak any time soon I can tell you that for sure

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2000 Chevrolet Malibu
Replaced front brake pads, turned front brake rotors, relubed slide pins, rotated tires, changed oil
 
My little cabover Mack had been dripping coolant from this reservoir since I put it on the road due to rust between the tank wall and the welded bracket. I haven’t been able to find a tank other than new for $1600 so yesterday I decided to take it off and attempt a JB weld repair temporarily because I need the truck for an upcoming job. On closer inspection it appeared to be coming through the bracket so I cut all the welds and this is what I found. Steam cleaned it this morning and blew two more holes in it-one in each end. It’s now at the welding shop being cut apart to inspect and decide if we only repair the rust or duplicate and build an entire new tank. Owning trucks is literally one headache after the next.
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I successfully disabled TPMS in an '06 Expedition at the owner's request.

Initially I could find a BUNCH of info on '03-04, but '05-'06 seem to use a different format for the ABD (as-built data). Also gobs of info for '07, but that started a new generation and was also different.

I was about to give up when deep in web search results I found a Reddit result. This marks the first time I've ever received useful tech from a Reddit link as result of a web search.

I changed the 3968 to 1968 and TPMS no more!!

@bdcardinal 'cause sometimes you like older Ford info
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I successfully disabled TPMS in an '06 Expedition at the owner's request.

Initially I could find a BUNCH of info on '03-04, but '05-'06 seem to use a different format for the ABD (as-built data). Also gobs of info for '07, but that started a new generation and was also different.

I was about to give up when deep in web search results I found a Reddit result. This marks the first time I've ever received useful tech from a Reddit link as result of a web search.

I changed the 3968 to 1968 and TPMS no more!!

@bdcardinal 'cause sometimes you like older Ford infoView attachment 252854
Our 04 Mazda B2300 parts beater truck is waiting for me to stop running around like a one legged man in a butt kicking contest to fix it. P3000, P0302, P0304, P0316 codes and it sure runs like it. I have a new coil, plugs, and wires to shotgun the fix. Just been too busy to get to it. The valve cover gasket is leaking which is most likely the cause, but that involves taking the intake off so that will wait a bit.
 
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Picked up a new 6 amp battery tender for my 3500 Cummins. It had a 3 amp, which found its way onto the Trailblazer, which had a 1.25 amp, which decided to part ways with the plug end. Got those wired in.

Got my 2005 Grand Mormon van running. It has a weak battery, which was all but dead. It froze and wouldn't take a charge during our cold spell. Ran good today so I topped up the tires and got the battery tender charging now.

Then got the old charger on one of the sleds. The charger is so old it was made in Canada and likely 40 plus years old.

Then went to the dealer to pay an exorbitant amount of money for the proper purple OAT Mopar coolant for my 3500. Wasn't worth the risk to mix a possibly compatible coolant. It was throwing a low coolant message and the expansion tank was a bit low. Tossed in a litre and all is right with the world.

Then went to test some new Sylvania LED high beams bulbs in the Ram. While they worked, I found out I need larger dust caps. Found a Canadian company that makes them and Hopefully get them shipped here, avoiding Canada Post.
 
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