What are you working on today?

Was going to change the oil on 2012 Santa Fe, only 8700 miles on this run so skipped for now. Has a slight rattle in the front end, everything seems tight. Now the struts installed in January are Monroe Quick Struts and questioning the upper bearings. More investigation to follow.
Did change the oil on my RX400H @ 8500 miles to see what the analysis says.
 
Well, the power steering reservoir is what is now leaking on the 2008 Ford Focus. It came with the new pump and the fit was kind of loose but I put it on anyway. The original reservoir has two O-rings on the part that goes into the pump. The new reservoir only uses one O-ring with no provisions for more. These O-rings are one time use, and no one seems to have any so I'm not sure what to do at this point. The original reservoir has an internal screen which is built into it and can't be cleaned and with as much metal that was in the fluid, I'm not going to take the risk of re-using it and it also needs new O-rings which seem to be the same size as the one on this new reservoir.

I have the O-ring kits from Harbor Freight but none of them are remotely close to the size I need. To be honest, I have never found an O-ring in those kits that matched anything that I tried to use them on.

Anyone have a source for an O-rings kit that actually have useful O-rings in it?
Crazy you say that because it's exactly what was happening on the '09. I was going to mention it but you seemed sure it was the hose, so I refrained.

I could swear I replaced it with used OEM from ebay, or maybe I just re-ringed it. I searched ebay and RA and email history but can't find record of the purchase.

I'm no help because I don't remember having any o-ring problems.

Speaking of, they tell you you can't get the o-ring for the upper rad hose and you must buy an ENTIRE NEW HOSE, but that's BS. I found it in a Dorman assortment and very successfully stopped a leak there.
 
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Was going to change the oil on 2012 Santa Fe, only 8700 miles on this run so skipped for now. Has a slight rattle in the front end, everything seems tight. Now the struts installed in January are Monroe Quick Struts and questioning the upper bearings. More investigation to follow.
Did change the oil on my RX400H @ 8500 miles to see what the analysis says.
I'm sorry to say, but this checks out. Hope I'm wrong.
 
Crazy you say that because it's exactly what was happening on the '09. I was going to mention it but you seemed sure it was the hose, so I refrained.

I could swear I replaced it with used OEM from ebay, or maybe I just re-ringed it. I searched ebay and RA and email history but can't find record of the purchase.

I'm no help because I don't remember having any o-ring problems.

Speaking of, they tell you you can't get the o-ring for the upper rad hose and you must buy an ENTIRE NEW HOSE, but that's BS. I found it in a Dorman assortment and very successfully stopped a leak there.
Yes, I don't believe it was the return line that had a leak because that hose is a ***** to get off. I had problems removing it today. We went ahead and ordered a factory Ford reservoir off of Amazon. The original part number has been superseded by a new number and the new tank fits Focus 2006-2011 and Transit vans through 2011. The new reservoir only uses one O-ring too so we will see what happens. At least it is white like the original so we can at least see the fluid level. The new pump from Autozone that we bought had a black reservoir on it and the fluid level check window was black too and was useless. You could not see anything through it.
If this new reservoir doesn't fix it, it will just have to leak.
 
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1993 Volvo 240 Classic, 103,xxx miles

This was a California car made in the last 6 months of 240 production. Volvo gave it the emissions full Monty. I’m returning it to a 49 state engine.

EGR: removed the cast iron vacuum unit, associated pipes, vacuum pump and lines, sealed the intake and exhaust manifold and air box ports.

Pulse air: removed the air controller, hoses, and cylinder head air piping. Blocked the cylinder head air ports with Volvo OE plugs. I guess Volvo knew people would remove this stuff. 🙄

Replaced the ECU, EZK and oxygen sensor with the appropriate 49 state units.

Cleaned the exhaust manifold.

New manifold gaskets, header gaskets and copper nuts. I love copper exhaust nuts. So classy.

The most challenging project I’ve completed yet.

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Getting the Mack and belly dump ready to work this week. Changed both trailer hub caps and refilled with Lucas Hub oil. Changed transmission fluid and external f filter, refilled with 7 gallons MFA Dexron 3 ATF. Changed diff oil with 5 gallons MFA 75w140. Greased the truck and trailer with Schaeffer 219. Changed the gate control plug to a 6 pin and pulled 6 wire trailer cable into the cab. Installed a switch with the flip down guard for the gate. Replaced the air lines and cord to the trailer with a new non-coiled 3in1 set. Changed the fuel filter again. Installed a new coolant level sensor and bypassed the Kysor switch that kept setting the alarm off in the cab. I’m probably forgetting a bunch of stuff.
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1993 Volvo 240 Classic, 103,xxx miles

This was a California car made in the last 6 months of 240 production. Volvo gave it the emissions full Monty. I’m returning it to a 49 state engine.

EGR: removed the cast iron vacuum unit, associated pipes, vacuum pump and lines, sealed the intake and exhaust manifold and air box ports.

Pulse air: removed the air controller, hoses, and cylinder head air piping. Blocked the cylinder head air ports with Volvo OE plugs. I guess Volvo knew people would remove this stuff. 🙄

Replaced the ECU, EZK and oxygen sensor with the appropriate 49 state units.

Cleaned the exhaust manifold.

New manifold gaskets, header gaskets and copper nuts. I love copper exhaust nuts. So classy.

The most challenging project I’ve completed yet.

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You always do thorough and top of the mark work. I’m speechless 😍👍
 
Planned on changing the bulbs in the rear of my Samurai. It should only take an hour at most, right? Well the car had other plans.

4 hours later and I’ve only replaced 2 of 3 drivers side bulbs and haven’t even looked at the passenger side yet. Reverse bulb is completely rusted and seized but somehow still works, other bulbs rusted but eventually got them out. Had to repair a bumper bracket, cuss at whoever installed scotch lock connectors, repair some wiring, clean mud stains from the inside of the lenses, paint behind the bumper, and then finally put it all back together.
 
Planned on changing the bulbs in the rear of my Samurai. It should only take an hour at most, right? Well the car had other plans.

4 hours later and I’ve only replaced 2 of 3 drivers side bulbs and haven’t even looked at the passenger side yet. Reverse bulb is completely rusted and seized but somehow still works, other bulbs rusted but eventually got them out. Had to repair a bumper bracket, cuss at whoever installed scotch lock connectors, repair some wiring, clean mud stains from the inside of the lenses, paint behind the bumper, and then finally put it all back together.
I'm glad I'm not the only one!
 
First time in 20 years I want to hang some Christmas lights, so I set up a Holiday receptacle to be on a timer. Hung the outlet up high so there's no extra cords hanging down, one of my pet peeves. I'll have to get a different cover for the outlet though as I spaced out and bought the wrong one. I'll get an in use cover before I hang the lights.

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Total cost was $60 as I already had the 14/2.
 
First time in 20 years I want to hang some Christmas lights, so I set up a Holiday receptacle to be on a timer. Hung the outlet up high so there's no extra cords hanging down, one of my pet peeves. I'll have to get a different cover for the outlet though as I spaced out and bought the wrong one. I'll get an in use cover before I hang the lights.

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Total cost was $60 as I already had the 14/2.
@Delta, that is right nice, next level. My wife would be all over wanting something like this.
 
Replaced a rear wheel speed sensor on Dad's 1997 Acura RL.. pretty time consuming and frustrating.

First had to decipher the flashing ABS and TCS lights on dash after jumping a service port connector.
Thankfully most codes pointed to the right rear wheel speed sensor. So we started there.
Tested the connector with multimeter and it showed 0 ohms. Supposed to be like 1400-1900ohms.
Sensor was totally separated.
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And also Completely seized within the knuckle.
I hammered it out with a punch.
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The bore was corroded so I took a Dremel wheel that wouldn't fit in the hole with dremel but a series of drill bit adapters and bit drivers worked enough to remove the corrosion.
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Finally got it fully seated.
Working ABS and TCS!
 
First two loads of gravel went well today. There’s a learning curve with the gate on the bottom that will take time to figure out but I’m happy with it. Empty weight with a full tank of fuel is 20,500 pounds and my legal gross weight is 52,000 pounds. This means I can haul 15.75 tons if scaled right.
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1996 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd 5.0 Vortec
Replaced distributor cap, rotor button, air filter, cleaned mass airflow sensor, cleaned throttle body, replaced fuel filter, replaced front brake pads, turned front brake rotors, repacked inner/outer wheel bearings, changed oil
 
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