I had a new pump put on mine several years ago (I didn't personally perform the service) and the new pump had a pinhole in the casting. The guy (who's a fantastic plumber) was scratching his head for a couple minutes. He said he would charge Ferguson's for the additional labor due to their crappy part and they'd pay it.The circulator pump on my hydronic heating system bit the dust, so I ordered some parts and got to work replacing the pump, automatic air vent for the boiler, and boiler relief valve. After I bled the system, it fired right up and ran like a top.
Old pump
View attachment 249146
New pump (yes, it's right side up)
View attachment 249147
New air vent
View attachment 249150
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I also drove this car 40 miles with no coolant with no harm!
Mostly a gimmick, but whatever works.
I am, however oftentimes in favor of the complete replacement systems solely because they de-clutter the engine bay. I'm mostly annoyed by the ginormous baffles and mufflers the OEMs overengineer just so we don't hear the motor pulling air.
That said, most of those systems always fit marginally (the definition of aftermarket, it seems), can introduce vacuum leaks, and don't always have the correct bungs for necessary sensors (I just watched an SMA vid where he went through this on a GMT800).
On our '08 F150 a poorly fitting CAI box nearly rubbed through a brake hardline. I did not install the CAI -- it was there at time of purchase:
Wife's '08 F150:
-greased Icon UCAs (already installed when we bought it)
-new front pads and rotors
-replaced hard line from master cylinder to HCU. A long time ago @bdcardinal helped me with the part # for the necessary hard line. Had previously been worn down by poor fit of aftermarket CAI (also already there when we bought it). I had already clearanced the filter enclosure here but worn line is visible:
One of the front bleeders snapped off in caliper. I was able to get it out with the Lisle torx-esque extractors:
...
-greased Icon UCAs (already installed when we bought it)
-new front pads and rotors
-replaced hard line from master cylinder to HCU. A long time ago @bdcardinal helped me with the part # for the necessary hard line. Had previously been worn down by poor fit of aftermarket CAI (also already there when we bought it). I had already clearanced the filter enclosure here but worn line is visible:
One of the front bleeders snapped off in caliper. I was able to get it out with the Lisle torx-esque extractors:
I installed new spark plugs in my 2014 Ford F-150 5.0. It took about 2 hours and the most difficult part was getting the coil pack disconnected from the wire that plugs into it with a red tab. A couple of them were a real challenge to pull apart from the coil pack. It was much easier to do then it was on my 2005 Ford F-150 5.4. All in all....I am happy I did it myself. I also changed the oil and filter about a week ago and I am at 79,000 actual miles. It's been an awesome truck purchased at pre-covid prices so I am going to keep it around for a while.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Just wanted to post what I’ve been working on for the past week at work when I don’t get pulled off to do something else. 2005 Toyota Tundra frame. These things and the Tacoma have a frame recall for the frames rusting out. I think this is the most fun I’ve had in awhile but it is annoying having to drill and grind off almost every bolt. And dude is on a budget so trying to save every piece possible as Toyota only pays for the frame and bolts and labor so since it needed new struts and stuff like that it’s all customer pay for the additional stuff. This is a 30 hour two man job. It pays 30 hours to both techs that do it.
And for those wondering in the last picture the Tundra in the background is getting an engine. Toyota replaced their truck because it blew up a few months ago. So an engine is going in it then going to the auction. Those things are prone to problems between turbos, engines, interior pieces etc.
And today at home I’m angry and trying to cool off before I do something I regret because I tried to fix the threads where the plug blew out of my truck and it looks like I’m looking at a new cylinder head or if I can find an oversized spark plug somewhere maybe that. But it’s done for the tap is too small and it’s the right tap so I’m assuming when it came in destroyed the threads smooth and at this point I’d just be cutting into the side wall of the head. I truly don’t know what made it blow out I just suspect it was from the way it gets dogged to death when he drives it. I’m just done with everything. Every time I try to save money something comes up. Good thing I have been saving up but there goes all that savings and money I worked hard for.
And for those wondering in the last picture the Tundra in the background is getting an engine. Toyota replaced their truck because it blew up a few months ago. So an engine is going in it then going to the auction. Those things are prone to problems between turbos, engines, interior pieces etc.
And today at home I’m angry and trying to cool off before I do something I regret because I tried to fix the threads where the plug blew out of my truck and it looks like I’m looking at a new cylinder head or if I can find an oversized spark plug somewhere maybe that. But it’s done for the tap is too small and it’s the right tap so I’m assuming when it came in destroyed the threads smooth and at this point I’d just be cutting into the side wall of the head. I truly don’t know what made it blow out I just suspect it was from the way it gets dogged to death when he drives it. I’m just done with everything. Every time I try to save money something comes up. Good thing I have been saving up but there goes all that savings and money I worked hard for.
This is the trend on a lot of auto boards I frequent. They just want you to:
- Tell them what parts to replace.
- Tell them what's wrong so they can tell someone what parts to replace.
- Tell them what's wrong so they can argue with a service tech.
I ask him if the car wash has an underbody rinse.
- Dude - Yes, it does.
- Me - Try running the car thru with out the underbody rinse.
- Dude - So, I went to a different car wash. Same thing with the warning lights.
- Me - Did they have an underbody rinse?
- Dude - Yes.
- Me - Did you decline the rinse?
- Dude - No.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Tried to fix the spark plug threads in my truck. Think it’s going to need a head. Caffeine mandatory so I don’t go off on people lol 
. Time serts wouldn’t work. Seems that after I ran a tap inside that the hole expanded and more or less cleared the threads then cut new ones. I’m so angry. I said words I have never said before while trying to do this lol. If anyone knows anything to try though please let me know. Trying to save it if possible. Someone I talked too said not to worry about cutting new threads for the insert and just put the insert in with red loctite and hit it with the setting punch and it’s fixed.
. Time serts wouldn’t work. Seems that after I ran a tap inside that the hole expanded and more or less cleared the threads then cut new ones. I’m so angry. I said words I have never said before while trying to do this lol. If anyone knows anything to try though please let me know. Trying to save it if possible. Someone I talked too said not to worry about cutting new threads for the insert and just put the insert in with red loctite and hit it with the setting punch and it’s fixed. Love the frame swap, very cool
I actually didn't do either job on the T-stats. The first time it needed to be replaced it was during the winter and I didn't have a place to work on it inside and it was buried under the intake which I really didn't want to mess with, so I told her she was going to have to take it to a shop. We told the shop to install a Motorcraft part, but I don't know if they did. Less than a year later we were getting the same code again(P0128) so they replaced it again under warranty. So far, it's been fine since.
While replacing the power steering pump, I could see that it would be easy to replace the T-stat with it out of the way.
On another note, today I replaced the Teflon seal again on the high-pressure side of the power steering pump and believe I have the leak fixed there. I forgot I had some Crowfeet flarenut wrenches so I was able to torque the line nut to the specified torque. The system does still have a leak somewhere though because I put a vacuum pump with a power steering pump adapter on it to bleed the air out and while I could get the pump up to 20 psi, it would slowly bleed down, and I could hear it bleeding off somewhere. Possibly at the return line which just has a spring clamp on it. I was still able to bleed the air out of it though. Pump is nice and quiet now so that is good.
I'm done working on it regardless of if it is still leaking. After five days of working on it, I've had enough of it and want it gone.
Sounds very familiar. LOL.
Wow, a customer paid for a new frame? I know that truck is well past the extended frame warranty.
He said it's warranty but I was also shocked Toyota would do anything on a 2005.
One can of Super Tech Carb and Intake cleaner, couple rags and a old toothbrush. Cleaned the throttle body really good on the 2004 Ford Taurus in signature. Took it for a good ride after, just hums along.
Was '05 a 3rd Gen Tundra?? I thought it was Gen 1 with Gen 2 coming in '07 and Gen 2.5 in '14??
Put a pair of trunk struts on my sister's boyfriends first car (2013 Dodge Avenger)
$6,700 he paid for a '13 Avenger SE w/120k miles
Now it's no longer trying to French Revolution them with the trunk open on a breezy day
It's also getting some light maintenance in the near future, oil change, cabin filter, I'm having some spare keys cut (only came with one)
Pulled the engine cover and was greeted with this mess, I forecast wiring repairs in the future
Switching gears to a (checks notes) coworkers daughters boyfriends 2014 Sonata Limited
His complaint was an intermittent airbag light, with a stored B1346 Driver Airbag Resistance too high
Apparently many H/K people (and a TSB) indicate the problem is in the clock spring, not the airbag inflator itself
I ran the VIN, and this particular Sonata is covered by a 15 year unlimited extended warranty on the clockspring
CLOCK SPRING WARRANTY EXTENSION (TXXA)
I advised him to check it into his local Hyundai dealer, see if they'll play ball
Then I noticed an ambient air temp sensor code (fixed by plugging the OAT
sensor back in
Now the OAT readout on the dash works
Reattaching the slightly damaged front bumper
Changing several burned out tail light bulbs (typical H/K activity)
Going for the DLC I noticed some extra wiring
Following it led me to a Phillips GPS tracker system with a 16 pin T harness
Probably from the car lot he bought it from several years ago
He's long since paid the car off, and has the title in his name
30 seconds later that nonsense was in the bin
Light work is a good day, for today is the day I didn't join the 27 club
Starbucks said happy birthday to me
, with a free 
$6,700 he paid for a '13 Avenger SE w/120k miles
Now it's no longer trying to French Revolution them with the trunk open on a breezy day
It's also getting some light maintenance in the near future, oil change, cabin filter, I'm having some spare keys cut (only came with one)
Pulled the engine cover and was greeted with this mess, I forecast wiring repairs in the future
Switching gears to a (checks notes) coworkers daughters boyfriends 2014 Sonata Limited
His complaint was an intermittent airbag light, with a stored B1346 Driver Airbag Resistance too high
Apparently many H/K people (and a TSB) indicate the problem is in the clock spring, not the airbag inflator itself
I ran the VIN, and this particular Sonata is covered by a 15 year unlimited extended warranty on the clockspring
CLOCK SPRING WARRANTY EXTENSION (TXXA)
I advised him to check it into his local Hyundai dealer, see if they'll play ball
Then I noticed an ambient air temp sensor code (fixed by plugging the OAT
sensor back inNow the OAT readout on the dash works
Reattaching the slightly damaged front bumper
Changing several burned out tail light bulbs (typical H/K activity)
Going for the DLC I noticed some extra wiring
Following it led me to a Phillips GPS tracker system with a 16 pin T harness
Probably from the car lot he bought it from several years ago
He's long since paid the car off, and has the title in his name
30 seconds later that nonsense was in the bin
Light work is a good day, for today is the day I didn't join the 27 club
Starbucks said happy birthday to me
, with a free Well, the power steering reservoir is what is now leaking on the 2008 Ford Focus. It came with the new pump and the fit was kind of loose but I put it on anyway. The original reservoir has two O-rings on the part that goes into the pump. The new reservoir only uses one O-ring with no provisions for more. These O-rings are one time use, and no one seems to have any so I'm not sure what to do at this point. The original reservoir has an internal screen which is built into it and can't be cleaned and with as much metal that was in the fluid, I'm not going to take the risk of re-using it and it also needs new O-rings which seem to be the same size as the one on this new reservoir.
I have the O-ring kits from Harbor Freight but none of them are remotely close to the size I need. To be honest, I have never found an O-ring in those kits that matched anything that I tried to use them on.
Anyone have a source for an O-rings kit that actually have useful O-rings in it?
I have the O-ring kits from Harbor Freight but none of them are remotely close to the size I need. To be honest, I have never found an O-ring in those kits that matched anything that I tried to use them on.
Anyone have a source for an O-rings kit that actually have useful O-rings in it?