What are you working on today?

2017 Yamaha 150XB. 350 hours all salt water. Boat kept in water 6 months/year. 17 Parker 21SE.
Exhaust guide corrosion. Dry exhaust can not flush. Tried to JB Weld (Xtreme Heat) to get me through the season. No go.
Estimates were $3-3.5k dependent upon what other issues might be uncovered. Bought a used hoist and $900 in OEM parts and service manual.
No corrosion on the adjoining powerhead or oil pan. Yamaha leans towards over-propping or long periods of trolling. I can hit rev-limiter if trimmed excessively and have rarely trolled for fish. The consensus amongst the afflicted is poor metallurgy on the guide. Plausible as the connected components, seperated by a thin metal gasket were not affected.
Pro's say 12-15 hours. I'm estimating 30+ for me. A lot of one step forward two steps back. I found the only useful info in the manual were torque specs. Ofttimes the parts diagrams on the web were more helpful. Back in the water and have about 25 hours on the repair. Aligning the powerhead was, probably, the most challenging part as I was without a helping hand.
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Did an emergency rear pad slap on a '17 Optima
I used the mid tier Bosch Blue pads (with included rag)
I warned him performance wouldn't be satisfactory without new rotors, but anything's safer than nothing 🙄
Whoever did the job prior to me was a real clown, nickel anti seize on the slide pins, and missing anti drag hardware 😲
As for the Bosch Blue pads, better than Raybestos EHT, but still somewhat poor fitment between new hardware and pad
Does any aftermarket pad get it right anymore 😒
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Tomorrow the front's getting a Raybestos EHT pad + rotor kit, it is what it is 😕
I'm not buying any more of them after this
 
Got the correct inner TREs for the '05 Explorer and got that back together. One inner boot already had a zip tie but I really wanted to try to clamp it correctly.

This was my first use of my right angle clamp tool and wow, what a lifesaver. I've got the straight-on crimper and the mini-vise crimper but neither would really work here. I know it looks spacious in the pics but in reality it's kinda tight.

Pass side:
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Driver side:
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Yesterday, changed oil/filter on my 87 Ford F-150 4.9. I used 4 quarts of Maxlife 10w-30 and 2 quarts of Penzoil high mileage 10w-30 along with a Motorcraft FL1A filter. This morning, I forgot to "fall back". At 3:30 AM in my garage , I was changing coolant (Zerez G-05) and the upper hose on my 2003 Grand Marquis (4.6). Now is getting time for football this afternoon.
 
Friday was replacing a leaking radiator hose and changing coolant on the John Deere. Waiting on one last part to arrive, coolant overflow bottle had a small crack from vibration I think and needs replaced. Also replaced the manual oil pressure gauge the glass cracked on.

I’m replacing wiper blades on the vehicles in prep. for winter, buddy is doing rotors & pads on the Durango. Then splitting wood if I have time for bonfires.
 
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2009 kawasaki FD731 26HP liquid cooled on an Exmark mower, #2 coil decided to stop working. 430 Hrs. Thought while it was down, I'd do maintenance. Valve clearances check good, only 1 slightly tight. Flushed cooling system. Carb was incredibly clean after 15 years and 10% ethanol fuel. New fuel filter and finally an oil change. Runs great.
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michaelluscher said:
Did an emergency rear pad slap on a '17 Optima
I used the mid tier Bosch Blue pads (with included rag)
I warned him performance wouldn't be satisfactory without new rotors, but anything's safer than nothing 🙄
Whoever did the job prior to me was a real clown, nickel anti seize on the slide pins, and missing anti drag hardware 😲
As for the Bosch Blue pads, better than Raybestos EHT, but still somewhat poor fitment between new hardware and pad
Does any aftermarket pad get it right anymore 😒
View attachment 248250
View attachment 248251
Tomorrow the front's getting a Raybestos EHT pad + rotor kit, it is what it is 😕
I'm not buying any more of them after this
Click to expand...

Better than EHT? Do tell - how - feel, stopping power, dust? I ask in all seriousness because EHT was recent pad until quality fell when sending its manufacturing elsewhere. Can you describe. I’m stupid-picky about brakes.
 
Randol said:
2009 kawasaki FD731 26HP liquid cooled on an Exmark mower, #2 coil decided to stop working. 430 Hrs. Thought while it was down, I'd do maintenance. Valve clearances check good, only 1 slightly tight. Flushed cooling system. Carb was incredibly clean after 15 years and 10% ethanol fuel. New fuel filter and finally an oil change. Runs great. View attachment 248281
Click to expand...

Bucket list: upgrade to water cooled mower one day.
 
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Rainy day so lazy day mostly. The ENET cable showed up and the files for CarPlay so did that a bit ago on the X3. Nerve racking but went exactly as they instructed. Just tested it in the driveway but looked and functioned like it was supposed to. Better than the wired I have one the RV. Will be nice to have directions on the screen.
 
Early oil change in the f150. 74k on the engine.

This truck was raised on PP 10-30 synthetic. A couple of years ago when M1 pricing came down I moved all of our vehicles to that, having read it’s a little thicker in grade. 2 of the 4 cars in the family who’s cars I service developed “hot oil smell” for 1-2 months after that, but then went away. Made me a little uncertain about the whole “oil chemistries don’t matter thing.”

I observed that M1 was being consumed by the same vehicles which had no detectable consumption before on PP. so once I used up the stash, we went back to PP.

3k miles into this run with PP, something that sounds like light chain rattle or slap became noticeable in the F150 on cold idle. So it got an early OC today at roughly 4500 miles.

Old oil came out fine, dark brown, still had some thickness to it, didn’t smell diluted. New oil idled just a hair quieter on startup but nothing dramatic. While I should’ve checked the dipstick, I did not, and I am pretty sure that by weight of the waste jug, it was a quart or two light - eg, it consumed oil this time… have noted to start watching it.
 
Took a half-day road trip and purchased this belly dump pup trailer yesterday. It's a 1985 Gall and in really nice shape for the age. I'll have a few welds to repair and I need/want to add an electric tarp kit plus wire the truck to operate the gate and the tarp. This will be pulled behind my ex-USPS Mack tractor on my county maintenance contract where there are a lot of overhead obstructions. It will leave a windrow of gravel and the grader will follow behind to spread it. A 17ft dump bed is pretty tall when raised and there's some areas that I just can't spread rock on because of it.

Today it's been chilly and raining off and on. Went to one of our fire barns and worked on one of the engines. It started as a blown air dryer on the way to a call to needing an air governor, total replacement/upgrade/update of the air dryer to a spin on style, replacing a leaking brake valve on the pedal and now it's refusing to build air again. I've isolated it to a massive leak on the apparatus itself. I'll have to go back with some more fittings to supply shop air to just that circuit and see what all is leaking. This is one of those volunteer projects that you wish you'd never got involved with.

Tonight I spent a few hours bringing Quickbooks up to date as I've been super busy and neglected it the past few months. Thankfully it tracks every bank transaction so it's mainly just categorization that needed done. Being a one man show is challenging at times.

BELLY DUMP.webp
 
Fuel tank repair on a 2004 Isuzu Ascender I6 LWB 120,255mi. Dropping the fuel tank wasn't so bad, as long it's under 1/4 full.
Initially thought the fuel filler neck barb was the source of the evap leak, along with wetness around the area. Saw some dirt buildup around the middle evap vent fitting after dropping the tank and wanted to confirm my suspicions by doing a pressure test. With some soapy water and compressed air, issue confirmed. Another source of an evap leak.
Did the fuel filler neck repair and fuel pump replacement but could not find a repair solution for the vent fitting. Ugh used JB weld around the fitting after surface prep work and since it isn't a high stress area the repair should hold up. Also replaced the evap vent solenoid and the original fuel filter.

For a GM truck I was surprised to find German fuel parts on this truck, an original Bosch fuel pump (with a GM part#) and a Mahle fuel filter (had the original warning-fuel labels on it.)

IMG_6248.webp
 
Tomioka said:
Fuel tank repair on a 2004 Isuzu Ascender I6 LWB 120,255mi. Dropping the fuel tank wasn't so bad, as long it's under 1/4 full.
Initially thought the fuel filler neck barb was the source of the evap leak, along with wetness around the area. Saw some dirt buildup around the middle evap vent fitting after dropping the tank and wanted to confirm my suspicions by doing a pressure test. With some soapy water and compressed air, issue confirmed. Another source of an evap leak.
Did the fuel filler neck repair and fuel pump replacement but could not find a repair solution for the vent fitting. Ugh used JB weld around the fitting after surface prep work and since it isn't a high stress area the repair should hold up. Also replaced the evap vent solenoid and the original fuel filter.

For a GM truck I was surprised to find German fuel parts on this truck, an original Bosch fuel pump (with a GM part#) and a Mahle fuel filter (had the original warning-fuel labels on it.)

View attachment 248419
Click to expand...
My old '05 Yukon had an OEM Bosch pump. No idea on fuel filter
 
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