What are you working on today?

Internal slaves are stooopid
yes. The new transmission an bellhousing is external slave. My YJ is 91, what is going back in is 94 and up. I ll get pics of new trannie when I get it all together. In holding pattern now, as they did not send me the right pilot bearing, of course
 
Yesterday
2017 Toyota RAV4
Replaced front brake rotors and pads, changed oil

1996 Chevrolet Cheyenne 1500
Replaced taillight boards, tailgate straps, lubed tailgate latches, replaced air filter, rotated tires and changed oil
 
4R75 service. I noticed some of the pan bolts seemed quite tight. Upon reinstalling, one was stripped. Great. I wound up getting lucky tapping 5/16‐24 (from M8x1.25) with a bottoming tap to cut a few new threads, and using a longer bolt. I got it to hold torque at the bottom of the spec'd range.

I don't like having a single fractional fastener among metric, but I also don't feel the least bit bad because I didn't create the problem. Someone's been in there before (the tell-tale plastic ball was not in the pan) and I'm just doing my best to get it functioning.

The patented attempt to catch-all:
20240928_091251.webp

New Dorman pan with drain plug installed:
20240928_114211.webp
 
Small correction tasks with the Lexus.

"Upgraded" the navigation data DVD from the original data Version 1.0 to the latest data (for the Gen 2/3 systems) Version 13.1. Did this just because.

The interior car has always had this oily, grease-like smell. I could even smell it in the trunk.

I thought it was from pre-sale detailing products or 🤷‍♂️ . After I finished with the navigation (~15 minutes), I went into "Simba the Wonder Dog" mode and put my sniffer to work. The smell wasn't coming from the leather, carpet/mats or any other surfaces. Then I went for the cabin filter. There it was. I don't know if these things are oiled, but this thing reeked.

Running the AC, it cleared pretty quick. I'm hoping it isn't refrigerant oil I'm smelling. We'll see.

I had a replacement Denso filter on the shelf.

View attachment 242504
Pulled the Little Tree deodorizer and did a 15 mile drive on the interstate at Max AC with ducts on outside air. The smell is pretty much gone. I also removed the cabin filter and gave it the sniff test - all clear.

Had some time to do busy work; finished downloading documents from TIS (subscription expires on 10/4), in particular the 1558 repair manual documents. I'll probably never use it.

I did learn that there are odd quirks with TIS; you really need to search using a specific service category (not just "ALL"). If you do this, you'll not see the entire list of repair documents. 🤷‍♂️
 
4R75 service. I noticed some of the pan bolts seemed quite tight. Upon reinstalling, one was stripped. Great. I wound up getting lucky tapping 5/16‐24 (from M8x1.25) with a bottoming tap to cut a few new threads, and using a longer bolt. I got it to hold torque at the bottom of the spec'd range.

I don't like having a single fractional fastener among metric, but I also don't feel the least bit bad because I didn't create the problem. Someone's been in there before (the tell-tale plastic ball was not in the pan) and I'm just doing my best to get it functioning.

The patented attempt to catch-all:
View attachment 242604
New Dorman pan with drain plug installed:View attachment 242605
You could file or mill the head of the fastener that is bigger to match the others, i have "had" to do that before.

I have the same high creeper
 
Finished tearing down my old Craftsman chainsaw in preparation for a refresh. Realized I'm going to need a new gasket where the carb attaches to the motor, and that gasket doesn't come in the carb rebuild kit. So I'll probably stop by the small engine repair shop near my work on Monday. If they don't have one in stock I'll have to order one. Maybe by late fall I'll have this old saw running again.
 
4R75 service. I noticed some of the pan bolts seemed quite tight. Upon reinstalling, one was stripped. Great. I wound up getting lucky tapping 5/16‐24 (from M8x1.25) with a bottoming tap to cut a few new threads, and using a longer bolt. I got it to hold torque at the bottom of the spec'd range.

I don't like having a single fractional fastener among metric, but I also don't feel the least bit bad because I didn't create the problem. Someone's been in there before (the tell-tale plastic ball was not in the pan) and I'm just doing my best to get it functioning.

The patented attempt to catch-all:
View attachment 242604
New Dorman pan with drain plug installed:View attachment 242605

Drill a hole in the old pan if replacing it?

The new pan doesn't say METRIC!!;)
 
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Bumper parts starting to come in. Wanted to do a tiny mod to the rear bumper license plate screw holes. Dug out the rivnut installer and rivnuts, drilled out the plastic holes to take an M6 rivnut and now the license plate can be bolted on with 10mm Toyota hardware.
IMG_0650.webp
IMG_0651.webp
 
You could file or mill the head of the fastener that is bigger to match the others, i have "had" to do that before.

I have the same high creeper
I want it be obvious because the thread pitch is now different.

Honestly, there was so little on the magnet inside and the vehicle has 152k. I'd say now that there's a drain plug there would really never be a need to drop the pan ever again for the life of the vehicle (read: until the 3V craters).

You can do spill 'n fills easily and that internal filter is extremely unlikely to ever clog.

But yeah, I've got hex collet blocks that make custom size hex heads relatively easy ;)
 
I want it be obvious because the thread pitch is now different.
That makes sense. Feel the same way about filter and pans drops over time. After a point there is no value. Drain and fill is sufficient. I recently learned that Land Cruisers, at least the 200 series, do not even have a filter, but a screen.
 
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Friend’s 2015 Camry, complaint of brakes “scratching.”

I knew she had a shop do some work a couple of years ago, and the new pads require a lot of pedal effort to bite. So I ordered full set of akebono ACT pads and a bottle of fluid.

found:
- pads better than 50%
- fluid came out like a layered cake in yellow, black and green
- had newish front rotors, rears were original and serviceable
- slides had newer grease but were still stuck with old grease

Did:
- broke the glaze on both sides of all rotors with the belt sander
- cleaned and greased slides well
- new pads
- generous fluid exchange

Brakes far better.

Also ATF drain-fill at 145k miles (2nd time, first time was around 115k) with maxlife. Added 1/4 bottle of LG red. Old fluid came out black. Shifts like a new car, up and down, in all gears.

My truck. New CEL Saturday at 0530 in the morning. Just rolled 73k on the odometer. 2nd CEL this year. Haven’t looked at it. Friend has asked me to drive the Camry for the next couple of days and feel free to fix anything else I find. Probably do that and deal with the truck later.

M
 
Some laugh and don’t believe me when I tell them this car is never a one and done repair.. had the tires balanced last week and now a crack and leak in the sidewall. 22 year old doughnut! New Weber Spirit II 3 burner is getting delivered around 2 so can’t deal with it today. I’d rather have grilled steaks tonight 😂
IMG_4178.webp
 
Some laugh and don’t believe me when I tell them this car is never a one and done repair.. had the tires balanced last week and now a crack and leak in the sidewall. 22 year old doughnut! New Weber Spirit II 3 burner is getting delivered around 2 so can’t deal with it today. I’d rather have grilled steaks tonight 😂
View attachment 242778

The Weber spirit II is a great grill. My first one lasted 12 years. It was limping at the end, certainly. Was used at least once a week, often 2 and sometimes 3 times. They don’t take much gas to cook and they cook well.
 
The Weber spirit II is a great grill. My first one lasted 12 years. It was limping at the end, certainly. Was used at least once a week, often 2 and sometimes 3 times. They don’t take much gas to cook and they cook well.
Hope it last that long or longer. Might spray the frame down with fluid film but its painted pretty good. In hindsight should of just let them assemble and deliver it next weekend. Thats alot of cardboard and plastic.. a lot!
IMG_4186.webp
 
Yesterday I did a fuel filter on an '06 Expedition. Impressive, I know <-----sarcasm

I'm posting to rant about engineers and fuel line clips. Why do they feel the need to reinvent fuel line clips every few years, much like, well, EVERY electrical connector on the planet???

This one uses a blue clip ‐‐ but only on one side of the filter mind you -- where you pull a center tab up then depress the rest of it. It seems this particular clip was only used 2005-2006.

Now, the OTHER side of the filter uses the more-universal inner metal fingers where you just slide a disconnect in.

I've fought similar clips on my '11 SuperDuty known as "fingernail" clips where you depress a fingernail-looking tab. That one was so bad it was revised by Ford from pink to red (colors represent revisions here)

I wish the engineers would just STOP.
 
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