I wonder what it is, because it smells exactly like soapy water?
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I don't know what's in it, but this is what I've been using.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...xtra-seal-mounting-compounds/xts0/14753?pos=1
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...xtra-seal-mounting-compounds/xts0/14753?pos=1
Thats cool.. learn of something new every day. I’ll have to get one of those.
Ya really need a good conical adapter to center the wheel if you do. Or if you know you only want to regularly do a specific center bore you can just turn a bushing for that ONE size.
The duckbill's gotta spin concentric or it's on the rim, off the rim -- mostly off the rim
You can pirate the inner race from certain large-ish press-in wheel bearings (think Subaru and Honda) but they're really only big enough for small passenger car wheels.
I found a YT vid of a guy who reco'd a particular wheel bearing model #. I got one for cheap on Warehouse Deals and cut it apart, but it rarely helps me - YMMV
Had the same car; mine was a 89’ and gold color. Had the iron block and head “tech 4” 4cylinder with cartridge oil filter up inside oil pan. Great car.
^^ it's a 510063 bearing. Cut it apart as you just need the inner race. I got an AC Delco for $16, but retail is $40
It still doesn't go that big on its taper, but will help with smaller wheels.
If you have a local shop with a scrap bin maybe ask if you can pilfer it looking for bearings
It still doesn't go that big on its taper, but will help with smaller wheels.
If you have a local shop with a scrap bin maybe ask if you can pilfer it looking for bearings
I had to replace the “Coolant outlet” on the Buick in my signature. While I was at it, I replaced the hose connector that snaps into the top of it. For $6 more, I went ahead and ordered it since I figured that it might possibly break taking it off. It didn’t, but it got replaced with the new one anyway.
New outlet, new connector.
For having only 114k WELL maintained miles, I’ve had to do a lot of work on this Buick. (Not a LOT of work, but for 114k, it seems unreasonable.)
I’m just thankful that I have a commercial account with the dealership to save a little
Work that has had to be done on this thing, aside from regular maintenance.
1. Intake manifold / PCV pipe assembly from intake to turbo / valve cover. (Lovely PCV setup in this thing)
2. A/C compressor
3. Thermostat housing
4. Coolant outlet
New outlet, new connector.
For having only 114k WELL maintained miles, I’ve had to do a lot of work on this Buick. (Not a LOT of work, but for 114k, it seems unreasonable.)
I’m just thankful that I have a commercial account with the dealership to save a little
Work that has had to be done on this thing, aside from regular maintenance.
1. Intake manifold / PCV pipe assembly from intake to turbo / valve cover. (Lovely PCV setup in this thing)
2. A/C compressor
3. Thermostat housing
4. Coolant outlet
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Engine insulator mounts on a 2001 Toyota Tundra V8. OE part# 12361-0F010 for both sides. Pull out the whole assembly (14mm 4 bolts on block and deez two nuts on frame on each side). Despite service data to remove the 17mm nut to separate the insulator from the engine bracket mount on the engine, you would have to raise the engine sky high to clear the mount from the insulator stud, vs jacking the engine 1/4" of an inch to clear the assembly from the frame tabs. Undo the single 17mm nut & transfer the stabilizer plate and mount bracket to the new insulator. Did the transmission mount last week but did not want to leave it with 205,000mi engine insulators on it.
Separation in rubber and metal plates.
Height difference in the old and new insulators.
17mm stud and locating pin for the stabilizer plate and engine mount bracket. Following svc data I would have to raise the engine really high to clear these studs. Removing the complete assembly allows me to rebuild it on the bench easier and not fight the 17mm nut tucked tight by the strut tower.
Separation in rubber and metal plates.
Height difference in the old and new insulators.
17mm stud and locating pin for the stabilizer plate and engine mount bracket. Following svc data I would have to raise the engine really high to clear these studs. Removing the complete assembly allows me to rebuild it on the bench easier and not fight the 17mm nut tucked tight by the strut tower.
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2021 Polaris Ranger 1000 SOHC for my non-profit. This has been the ongoing project from Hades because I just never have time for it.
I was so pissed at it I tried to just slather some Permatex over the old stator cover gasket and slap it back together, but it leaks oil. I knew I was cutting corners and it bit me.
Polaris wants $50 plus shipping for an OEM gasket. I'm just gonna clean it up properly this time and use RTV again.
After inexplicably breaking a timing chain guide and wadding up the timing chain, we got lucky with only 5-10% leakdown and that was coming from the rings, not the valves
Broken guide (these two pieces should be one). Also note damage at bottom (finger indicates). It even bent the bolt that anchors the guide, which I simply straightened because it's a special, shouldered bolt. Everything on a Polaris is "special"
When the chain jumped off it sheared a cam sprocket bolt. Polaris claims the cam sprocket bolts are one-time use, likely because they're torquing an M6 to 14 ft lbs. Screw you Polaris, I'm not buying your special bolts. I reused the one -- which torqued fine -- and found a 10.9 M6 in my stash for the other. Everything on a Polaris is either "special" or one-time use. They can suck it!!
When this happened the motor got locked up from the bound chain. Repeated attempts to start literally burned the contacts off the special starter solenoid. I fit a Ford solenoid which, amazingly, bolts right on with the proper bolt spacing. Screw you Polaris, I'm not buying your special starter solenoid!!
I was so pissed at it I tried to just slather some Permatex over the old stator cover gasket and slap it back together, but it leaks oil. I knew I was cutting corners and it bit me.
Polaris wants $50 plus shipping for an OEM gasket. I'm just gonna clean it up properly this time and use RTV again.
After inexplicably breaking a timing chain guide and wadding up the timing chain, we got lucky with only 5-10% leakdown and that was coming from the rings, not the valves
Broken guide (these two pieces should be one). Also note damage at bottom (finger indicates). It even bent the bolt that anchors the guide, which I simply straightened because it's a special, shouldered bolt. Everything on a Polaris is "special"
When the chain jumped off it sheared a cam sprocket bolt. Polaris claims the cam sprocket bolts are one-time use, likely because they're torquing an M6 to 14 ft lbs. Screw you Polaris, I'm not buying your special bolts. I reused the one -- which torqued fine -- and found a 10.9 M6 in my stash for the other. Everything on a Polaris is either "special" or one-time use. They can suck it!!
When this happened the motor got locked up from the bound chain. Repeated attempts to start literally burned the contacts off the special starter solenoid. I fit a Ford solenoid which, amazingly, bolts right on with the proper bolt spacing. Screw you Polaris, I'm not buying your special starter solenoid!!
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Work was really busy today. Shorthanded because 3 guys called out saying they were hung over from football yesterday. Absolutely ridiculous that they allow excuses like that. Even more ridiculous that grown men aren’t responsible enough to know they have a job to go to the next day so they get hammered. But oh well makes me look better because more work for me. Done tires which unfortunately were Michelin so they fought going on and had to cheetah all 4 of them. Then car came back from Friday. One of the express guys had installed a new splash shield underneath and it came down because they put 4 bolts in it but no clips in the middle. Corrected that. Done a few transmission and transfer case services and a coolant flush too. Turned 10.3 hours.
Adulting is a pain in the neck sometimes.
I have a similar HF tire mounter.
If I get tires with the sidewalls too close together, I know they'll be a bear to seat. So I pre-stretch them with chunks of 2x4 or whatever jammed in there before I try to mount them. Soften them up in the sun, or by the wood stove, LOL.
If that's not enough, I lubricate (wet) up the inside bead, jam it down on the rim, and let it dry so it glues the bead there. Then I give it air through the valve stem while stretching and manipulating the tire outboard so its other bead has a fighting chance of catching the rim.
If all else fails, there's ether. I had a video on here but it was taken down due to partial nudity.
I have had success getting stubborn tires to seat by wrapping a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire. It can help hold the bead against the wheel.
Uh huh.
Car retrieval… Lucky just the tie rod and not the ball joint.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,210
If you went back with plastic parts, you're going to replace them again. Next time buy an aluminum Dorman one. Even the AcDelco plastic parts won't hold up. Eventually you'll have to replace the oil cooler seals, the turbo oil drain seal, and the valve cover, intake and pcv hose.... again. Ecotec 1.4s are permanent coolant/oil leakers.I had to replace the “Coolant outlet” on the Buick in my signature. While I was at it, I replaced the hose connector that snaps into the top of it. For $6 more, I went ahead and ordered it since I figured that it might possibly break taking it off. It didn’t, but it got replaced with the new one anyway.
New outlet, new connector.
For having only 114k WELL maintained miles, I’ve had to do a lot of work on this Buick. (Not a LOT of work, but for 114k, it seems unreasonable.)
I’m just thankful that I have a commercial account with the dealership to save a little
Work that has had to be done on this thing, aside from regular maintenance.
1. Intake manifold / PCV pipe assembly from intake to turbo / valve cover. (Lovely PCV setup in this thing)
2. A/C compressor
3. Thermostat housing
4. Coolant outlet
View attachment 239456View attachment 239457
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,210
Pulled the rear end out of a 98 Chevrolet Z71. This one was stuck locked. Getting replaced with the unit I pulled from the 93 suburban last week. Swaps backing plates and brake assemblies over because the z had new brakes installed six months ago. Waiting on axle seals.
Ok, I closed the book on the Polaris saga today. I told the wife if she wanted it back up & running for use at our non-profit she had to clean the old gasket surfaces of the stator cover:
Once I got it back together I then discovered the timing chain tensioner was also leaking. I don't know why they didn't use an o-ring as it's the perfect application for it, but some anaerobic gasket maker stopped that.
I recently treated myself to some ratchet straps with "clip hooks" and man they're nice for certain use cases
Also note the Jedi Master method for tying off excess strap. I'm amazed how many people don't know this and try to use duct tape or other stupidity:
Back in service at my non-profit
To help critters like this
edit: I also didn't realize the Polaris had a seat belt governor. Immediately after the timing job I couldn't understand why it would fall on its face under throttle!!
Well I HATE nannies so once I discovered that I hot-wired that b@#$%!!!!!
Once I got it back together I then discovered the timing chain tensioner was also leaking. I don't know why they didn't use an o-ring as it's the perfect application for it, but some anaerobic gasket maker stopped that.
I recently treated myself to some ratchet straps with "clip hooks" and man they're nice for certain use cases
Also note the Jedi Master method for tying off excess strap. I'm amazed how many people don't know this and try to use duct tape or other stupidity:
Back in service at my non-profit
To help critters like this
edit: I also didn't realize the Polaris had a seat belt governor. Immediately after the timing job I couldn't understand why it would fall on its face under throttle!!
Well I HATE nannies so once I discovered that I hot-wired that b@#$%!!!!!
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2009 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8:
-cleaned MAF (was REALLY dirty and causing a host of issues)
-changed engine oil
-changed t-case fluid
-serviced rear diff
-rear brakes: new shoes, drums, hardware
I like the bare bones, rubber floor, manual window GMT900s with a good ol' t-case lever in the floor. Good, simple trucks. And I don't think the 4.8 got AFM??
Kicked it out the door to experience what can be, unburdened by what has been.
-cleaned MAF (was REALLY dirty and causing a host of issues)
-changed engine oil
-changed t-case fluid
-serviced rear diff
-rear brakes: new shoes, drums, hardware
I like the bare bones, rubber floor, manual window GMT900s with a good ol' t-case lever in the floor. Good, simple trucks. And I don't think the 4.8 got AFM??
Kicked it out the door to experience what can be, unburdened by what has been.
Decided to tackle the job of replacing the rear brake shoes on my 98 Chevy K1500. They have been making noise for quite a while when backing up, so I figured they were worn out since they are the original shoes with 144,000 miles on them. I bought this truck new and have never replaced the rear brakes. I had bought all new drums, springs, wheel cylinders, and shoes for the job. I guess I should have taken the drums off before buying all of that stuff.
The shoes still had tons of material on them. They looked almost new in how thick they were. Lots of brake dust though. I decided to clean everything up and scuff up the shoe surface and the surface of the drum with some fine sandpaper.
I put everything back together and no more noise. I guess I will have the parts on hand if I ever do need to replace these parts.
The shoes still had tons of material on them. They looked almost new in how thick they were. Lots of brake dust though. I decided to clean everything up and scuff up the shoe surface and the surface of the drum with some fine sandpaper.
I put everything back together and no more noise. I guess I will have the parts on hand if I ever do need to replace these parts.