Unfortunately not. Wasn’t my call.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Replaced the Cadillac's 45 year old transmission mount with a closeout $2.46 DEA/Marmon mount from RA. Made in Korea, looked just fine until I went to install it and noticed that the cross member mounting stud threads looked... Off.
Sure enough, the original nut (M10-1.5 I'd guess) didn't fit. I made it to the in-town hardware store with 15 minutes to spare and grabbed the correct 7/16-14 locking flange nut for a whopping .56c
I actually found a couple of NOS mounts on eBay that were in the $30-$40 range, but I didn't like the idea of using a 40+ year old rubber part, NOS or otherwise. At least the DEA mount had S. Korea as it's COO, the Chinese and Indian made units (as I'm sure most of you know) range from barely passable to completely unusable.
Shame on you for not having 7/16" coarse in stockView attachment 234666View attachment 234667View attachment 234668
Replaced the Cadillac's 45 year old transmission mount with a closeout $2.46 DEA/Marmon mount from RA. Made in Korea, looked just fine until I went to install it and noticed that the cross member mounting stud threads looked... Off.
Sure enough, the original nut (M10-1.5 I'd guess) didn't fit. I made it to the in-town hardware store with 15 minutes to spare and grabbed the correct 7/16-14 locking flange nut for a whopping .56c
I actually found a couple of NOS mounts on eBay that were in the $30-$40 range, but I didn't like the idea of using a 40+ year old rubber part, NOS or otherwise. At least the DEA mount had S. Korea as it's COO, the Chinese and Indian made units (as I'm sure most of you know) range from barely passable to completely unusable.
Removed cobwebs and dead bugs from beneath the house, patched some ductwork. Bled a full jug of DOT4 through the F150s brakes today. Was going to replace the coolant as well but couldn’t figure out the right bottle while standing in Autozone, so that will have to be later.
2003 Nissan Xterra SE belonging to my son. He bought it last year for basic transportation. Has 230k miles but it was cheap. Replaced all what appear to be original shocks, calipers, and rotors. He works at AutoZone part time while going to school on the GI bill, so he doesn't have much money, so he used his discount to buy Duralast shocks and calipers. The shocks were twin-tubes and by the looks of them are probably made by Monroe. The calipers are remans; don't know who's doing those. They all seem to be ok; way better than what we took off as you can imagine. The old shocks didn't move at all when compressed; but didn't have any oil leaking. Probably all leaked out some years ago. The calipers are two pot and one side had one pot completely seized. Both sides the boots were all torn. He couldn't really afford new pads and rotors (the rotors were out of spec), so I found some Bendix Fleet MetLok pads and rotors for $100 on Amazon. I've had real good luck with those in the past for what they cost. While doing that we found the front sway bar links were completely shot and replaced those with Duralasts too. Bled the brakes of some of the nastiest fluid I had ever seen and replaced with Mag1 DOT 3. All in all, everything came off and went on way easier than I thought it would. Took a few hours and about came to a total of about $450 after discounts and cores. Probably saved $800 in labor or maybe more around here. Took it out to bed the brake pads and it all made a world of difference. All in all, for a beater car, the Duralast stuff seems to be a good economy option for the basics at least. Not too shabby.
If anyone needs good all around brake pads and rotors, I'd highly recommend taking at least a look at the Bendix Fleet Metlok stuff. I've used them on several vehicles now over the years and have been highly impressed with them for the costs. Especially the rotors. They don't get mentioned a lot for some reason.
If anyone needs good all around brake pads and rotors, I'd highly recommend taking at least a look at the Bendix Fleet Metlok stuff. I've used them on several vehicles now over the years and have been highly impressed with them for the costs. Especially the rotors. They don't get mentioned a lot for some reason.
yeah I think you got a bit much in that they Dakota.Concrete removal.. Think the truck is maxed outOnly 90 mile drive to dump. Now to cleanup. Going to dig down a bit and try to seal up the rock foundation a bit.
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Replaced the Cadillac's 45 year old transmission mount with a closeout $2.46 DEA/Marmon mount from RA. Made in Korea, looked just fine until I went to install it and noticed that the cross member mounting stud threads looked... Off.
Sure enough, the original nut (M10-1.5 I'd guess) didn't fit. I made it to the in-town hardware store with 15 minutes to spare and grabbed the correct 7/16-14 locking flange nut for a whopping .56c
I actually found a couple of NOS mounts on eBay that were in the $30-$40 range, but I didn't like the idea of using a 40+ year old rubber part, NOS or otherwise. At least the DEA mount had S. Korea as it's COO, the Chinese and Indian made units (as I'm sure most of you know) range from barely passable to completely unusable.
Good ole TH400, Last of the real Cadillac's....The next year was a HT4100, A Old's 5.7L diesel, Or the infamous 4-6-8 368 as engine options.
I rented an orbital deck sander and cleaned up the old deck in the backyard so I can give it some primer and solid colour stain/paint.
Should keep it in shape for a few more years.
While I was taking a break I put a new spark plug in the pressure washer and changed the oil (Supertech 5w40)
Should keep it in shape for a few more years.
While I was taking a break I put a new spark plug in the pressure washer and changed the oil (Supertech 5w40)
Couldn't agree more, Cline. The trans is original to the car ('79 date code on the tag) and shifts exactly how a TH400 should.
The emissions choked 425 certainly won't win any drag races, but man is it smooth. With the factory 2.28 rear end, it turns like 1600 RPM @ 60 MPH. Just wafting along.
More likely made by Gabriel. They've made AZ's shocks forever.
I just got done installing the second pair of Gabriel Ultra Truck shocks on our '02 Grand Cherokee (originals had 175K+) and I've been very happy with them. I do tow a small 4x8 trailer that occasionally gets loaded to ~1700 lbs and the Gabriel's have no issue keeping the rear end feeling stable.
Overall, for the cost, I'm very pleased with the performance I've seen out of the Gabe's.
Tire rotation and a once-over truck wash. It's raining here now, so garage work has stopped.
I found the time. Coolant flush on the 2018 F150, and test drove it from the brake bleed/fluid swap yesterday. Brakes felt goodddddd.
Coolant choice was wild. Ford called for OAT orange in 2018 but switched to P-OAT (low phosphate) shortly after, either due to heater core clogging issues or European emission standards depending on who you read. (P-OAT is low phosphate from what I read). There’s a hybrid OAT somewhere in the middle.
The most specific formulations at Autozone provided OAT for 2011-2018 fords and Low-phosphate OAT for 2001-2010 fords. There was nothing in a bottle than aligned with the ford bulletin for the fluid change or 2019+.
I thought I had it all figured out until I got to Autozone. The clerk on duty asked if he could help after I’d been back there for a bit. Dude was awesome. “I wish more customers cared. Here’s a printout from our system - according to our computer, you can go with either one, but I’d get as much of the old stuff out as you can. I’ll say this, most folks just buy anything here that is remotely close or universal and we haven’t had any complaints.” His printouts gave chemistry info that the bottles didn’t have, namely that the earlier 01-‘10 formulation was low-phosphate OAT, which is what ford wants now. I would have preferred a jug of motorcraft to be certain, but the bottle in my hand met both the ASTM specs that ford lists. Also, the 01-‘10 color was “yellow” which matches Ford’s claim that new fluid is “yellow.”
What’s wild is of the 12 variants of coolant there, I’d bet that half of them would work if a full flush was performed. Drained once, refilled with pure water and drained twice, then poured in a 3/4 mix of coolant. (You can only get about half the stuff out per drain, with a little help from shop air).
Ford did a good job of getting high-point vents to the overflow bottle. Aside from selection nerddom, the procedure was easy enough. Knock on wood, I hope the truck is good for a while.
Next issue - AZ doesn’t accept used antifreeze back. Oops. I know city sewer does, but I’m on septic… not dumping that in our septic system. All said and done, I have 6 gallons of fluid to recycle properly. Somewhere.
Coolant choice was wild. Ford called for OAT orange in 2018 but switched to P-OAT (low phosphate) shortly after, either due to heater core clogging issues or European emission standards depending on who you read. (P-OAT is low phosphate from what I read). There’s a hybrid OAT somewhere in the middle.
The most specific formulations at Autozone provided OAT for 2011-2018 fords and Low-phosphate OAT for 2001-2010 fords. There was nothing in a bottle than aligned with the ford bulletin for the fluid change or 2019+.
I thought I had it all figured out until I got to Autozone. The clerk on duty asked if he could help after I’d been back there for a bit. Dude was awesome. “I wish more customers cared. Here’s a printout from our system - according to our computer, you can go with either one, but I’d get as much of the old stuff out as you can. I’ll say this, most folks just buy anything here that is remotely close or universal and we haven’t had any complaints.” His printouts gave chemistry info that the bottles didn’t have, namely that the earlier 01-‘10 formulation was low-phosphate OAT, which is what ford wants now. I would have preferred a jug of motorcraft to be certain, but the bottle in my hand met both the ASTM specs that ford lists. Also, the 01-‘10 color was “yellow” which matches Ford’s claim that new fluid is “yellow.”
What’s wild is of the 12 variants of coolant there, I’d bet that half of them would work if a full flush was performed. Drained once, refilled with pure water and drained twice, then poured in a 3/4 mix of coolant. (You can only get about half the stuff out per drain, with a little help from shop air).
Ford did a good job of getting high-point vents to the overflow bottle. Aside from selection nerddom, the procedure was easy enough. Knock on wood, I hope the truck is good for a while.
Next issue - AZ doesn’t accept used antifreeze back. Oops. I know city sewer does, but I’m on septic… not dumping that in our septic system. All said and done, I have 6 gallons of fluid to recycle properly. Somewhere.
Yeah I was gonna respond to your first mention of this but wasn't positive on an '18 F150 so kept my mouth shut.
Still, for Ford trucks I follow the crude rule of thumb of G05 (HOAT) starting in '03, Dexcool (OAT) in '11 and the "gold" in '17.
Regardless, the Gold is supposed to be backward compatible so just do that if in doubt.
FTM seems to really, really like the Gold, which I find curious only because it begs the question of how ANY vehicle survived Dexcool if Gold is Sooo mUCh BeTTa!!!! I'm all for a better product but I think sometimes human nature is to view technology we used LITERALLY yesterday as "sooooooo yesterday" (best said in a Valley Girl voice) the SECOND a new thing is released. Anyway.....
Years ago I stopped looking at the big parts houses for guidance on coolants. Their listings and suggestions here are ambiguous at best, partially because they figure they can always take the easy out of AMAM
Honorable mention. Work done today.
Got the vacuum packed pillow BACK IN the bag so my wife can send it back. This should be a sport. Well maybe not. It’s like wrestling a pig with a roll of tape, an ill-fitting vacuum hose and a drinking straw, using your weight and your belly…All the belly! There would not have been a .single. .appropriate. camera angle. to film from.
Got the vacuum packed pillow BACK IN the bag so my wife can send it back. This should be a sport. Well maybe not. It’s like wrestling a pig with a roll of tape, an ill-fitting vacuum hose and a drinking straw, using your weight and your belly…All the belly! There would not have been a .single. .appropriate. camera angle. to film from.
I had miscalculated the wood I needed for the rafters and had a bit of them warp/twist over the past months. They will still be useful for other projects, Delivered the necessary wood and picked up free pallets along the way.
Also the mower belt broke, replaced that with an OEM unit, and mowed fence line trails.
Finished Installing about 1/4 of the rafters, and a pressure treated end cap. It was hot and a bit humid, but was productive. Mom is getting her good eye cataract removed this week so another 250 miles of driving.
The war against red paper wasps is coming to a conclusion. Peppermint oil, dawn soap and water has been a good bulk solution. Stung twice so far, but over 100 slain.
Swing and a miss with programming this key on a '23 Kona
Turns out the KM100 can't pull the Immo pin newer than a '21
I'm confident I'll be able to complete the programming, I'll just have to get the pin from the dealer or another online source
I'll revisit it next weekend
2011 Avalon made a comeback, got two new D4S HID bulbs
It still had the factory Harrison/Toshiba units in, they were starting to flicker and faulter
Oh, and I had some inadvertent side work
I was working OT last night in Downtown Brooklyn
Guy backing an older E Class heard a loud bang, and spaghetti was scattered all over the ground
It chucked the belt
We went inside to do our leak investigation
This happened when we arrived to the job, over an hour later, we came back, they had sourced a belt and socket set, but were unable to install the belt
After coffee break and paperwork they still hasn't figured it out, my co worker taps me on the shoulder and says
"I've had enough of watching this train wreck, I know you work on cars"
Luckily AZ supplied the right belt, and RWD Mercedes are fairly easy to work on
Had that belt on in 30 seconds flat
This poor W212 has been around the block, observe the strut that's damaging the hood, and the headlight out
Zip ties for the front plate, classy
They were very appreciative, and rolled on down Court St
...AAA got nothing on me
Turns out the KM100 can't pull the Immo pin newer than a '21
I'm confident I'll be able to complete the programming, I'll just have to get the pin from the dealer or another online source
I'll revisit it next weekend
2011 Avalon made a comeback, got two new D4S HID bulbs
It still had the factory Harrison/Toshiba units in, they were starting to flicker and faulter
Oh, and I had some inadvertent side work
I was working OT last night in Downtown Brooklyn
Guy backing an older E Class heard a loud bang, and spaghetti was scattered all over the ground
It chucked the belt
We went inside to do our leak investigation
This happened when we arrived to the job, over an hour later, we came back, they had sourced a belt and socket set, but were unable to install the belt
After coffee break and paperwork they still hasn't figured it out, my co worker taps me on the shoulder and says
"I've had enough of watching this train wreck, I know you work on cars"
Luckily AZ supplied the right belt, and RWD Mercedes are fairly easy to work on
Had that belt on in 30 seconds flat
This poor W212 has been around the block, observe the strut that's damaging the hood, and the headlight out
Zip ties for the front plate, classy
They were very appreciative, and rolled on down Court St
...AAA got nothing on me
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That's good to know. I've used both and I prefer Gabriel Ultra's over Monroe for inexpensive options by a long shot. I put them on a 2007 Rav4 for my daughter some years ago and I was impressed with them too. I imagine these will outlast his vehicle. It is on borrowed time the way it is now; it has a rear main seal leak, but it just keeps chugging along. The main seal leak finally destroyed his starter a couple of months ago. "Duralasted" that part too. He'd be in a lot worse financial shape if he didn't work there with this car, lol. He has two more semesters then should be able to get a good enough paying job to upgrade a little bit. I'm hoping it makes it for him. I was never a big Nissan car fan, but this thing has impressed me for the abuse/neglect it has taken. Their trucks are obviously better than their cars. It does have it's quirks and frustrating aspects from a DIY'er perspective though; but all brands do to some extent.
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