What are you working on today?

Had a week off work so decided to check the rear disc brake pads on my 1999 Alero. Can't inspect them good without taking it apart, and wanted to see if the slide pins needed to be lubed, since it was still using grease from 1998. Pads were way thicker than I was expecting, and the caliper pins slid just fine, so I reassembled without relubing and didn't bother checking the other side. I was expecting those pins to need lube, but the caliper moved great.
 
This was supposed to be an easy job on the Subaru today...

a4bTpGy.jpg


Simple oil change, normally not dramatic...

So this plastic cover does not need to come off, but here we are...

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Dealer massively over tightened the drain plug. I felt it wasn't going to be easy with just a 14mm 3/8 socket and extension. Took the shield off to get better access. Put a 1/2" drive 14mm and 12" ratchet on it. This was the result...

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Instantly stripped with all the force I had on there. Instead of fumbling around with it more, I put the shield on and set up a time tomorrow to the same dealer that did the previous service. Told them I wanted to use my oil and filter and I already have the new plug. They'll probably balk at the idea of 5w30.

I also know why now that Subaru updated the drain plug to be a 17mm head now.
 
Maybe

Maybe a 14mm Turbo socket. Either that or hammer on a 13mm 12-point.

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-TS38551-Drive-Turbo-Socket/dp/B007YRG7BS
I've got a beef with those and the Rocket Socket and anything else that's 3/8" sq drive. They need to be 1/2" drive or have an external hex to allow for a socket to drive them.

In my '99 Ram lugnut saga above in this thread I first tried a Rocket Socket but all I did was shear a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer. The Craftsman Bolt-Outs with external hex were the winner, driven by my Milwaukee 2767
 
I almost got the welder out and welded a big nut on there, but decided not to. We'll see how it goes tomorrow as they're the ones that put it on there so darn tight...
Hopefully they'll get it competently but prepare to be underwhelmed.

I'm a cynic so with stuff like that I apply the old adage that if I want it done correctly I have to do it myself.

Let us know how it goes, I hope my cynicism is proven unfounded!!
 
Do those get tapped on with a hammer first?
I do for best results

My set was old US-made. I don't think Cman makes anything in the US anymore? But there must be equivalents, or maybe imports are decent.

Mine bit so well they flat-out sheared a 1/2-20 lugnut in two
 
Do those get tapped on with a hammer first?
I do for best results

My set was old US-made. I don't think Cman makes anything in the US anymore? But there must be equivalents, or maybe imports are decent.

Mine bit so well they flat-out sheared a 1/2-20 lugnut in two
Did somebody have a patent on those at one time? Seems like I remember them being called Turbo Socket, but I forgot who the original manufacturer was.
 
Hopefully they'll get it competently but prepare to be underwhelmed.

I'm a cynic so with stuff like that I apply the old adage that if I want it done correctly I have to do it myself.

Let us know how it goes, I hope my cynicism is proven unfounded!!

I'm sure they have dealt with this several times before as Subaru had to remake the plug to a bigger head due to the mass amount of stripping out the 14mm head. So, the new one is the same thread, but a 17mm head.

I stopped at just stripping the 14mm head and didn't go any further so they have a better change. I bet hammering on a 12 point and using an air impact would work. I have the, but I will see how this plays out. Never have had this happen in all the vehicles I've owned...
 
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That’s like wiping before ya poop. Haven’t had need for snow tires this year down here in PA
I believe we broke records here in NYC, it took till 2/1 for any measurable snow

But I paid for them, I may as well get my monies worth 😳

It's gonna be cold/icy overnight, which means tomorrow morning is gonna be hell getting to work

I trust the VikingContact7 over the ExtremeContact DWS⁰⁶ plus 🫡

I'll just fire up the remote start and heated washer fluid, I couldn't be bothered to fuss with a frozen car anymore 🥶
 
I'm sure they have dealt with this several times before as Subaru had to remake the plug to a bigger head due to the mass amount of stripping out the 14mm head. So, the new one is the same thread, but a 17mm head.

I stopped at just stripping the 14mm head and didn't go any further so they have a better change. I bet hammering on a 12 point and using an air impact would work. I have the, but I will see how this plays out. Never have had this happen in all the vehicles I've owned...
Is that the M16 thread?
 
Ordered new ford sync3 usb hub after 3 hours of troubleshooting. It’s been failing since 1 year into ownership, but started strobing errors continuously while driving. First pulled the hub, disassembled it, cleaned all the contacts and reinstalled it with dielectric grease everywhere, which removed one of 2 errors and gave me one finicky port (it has 2). Used the working port to update sync 3, since the WiFi update has never worked. After multiple attempts, got the update the take. Now the wifi feature works, but the hub is limited to one flakey port. I’d read that the hubs available today expect the latest sync3 version, which is why this is an ordeal. New hub was $65 shipped. I hope that fixes it; new ford apim modules are $$.
 
1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Turned front rotors, replaced front pads, replaced rear rotors, pads, calipers and hoses, changed oil, replaced air filter

1978 Buick Park Avenue
Replaced alternator and battery. More work on it tomorrow
 
Took the chain off of my Stihl chainsaw and dropped it off at the shop to get sharpened . Took the bar off and cleaned all the crud out of all the nooks and crannies . Ordered a new chain from Amazon that should be in tomorrow . I'll put it all back together one day this week . Raked a few leaves from a place that's not accessible to the ZTR mower .
 
'99 Ram 1500

Complaint was no heat. The hottest the truck would get on a test drive was 181, but mostly sat in the high 170s.
{snip}
The jury's out on this repair....I had good heat for half of my test drive then lost it. Re-started later and heat is back (blend door is cable actuated in '99). So I'm thinking maybe still an air pocket somewhere. Seems to me a clog in the heater core wouldn't so quickly come and go??

Quoting myself.....the day after the initial test drive it took some more coolant, maybe a quart or so. I told myself maybe that would help take care of a theoretical air pocket in the very high heater core, but no.

Results were exactly the same: decent heat once warmed up, decent heat 1/2 mile down my private road, but after 3-4 minutes on the highway it would go cold. Once it did this the heat would not return at any speed or idle, UNLESS I shut it off for several minutes and restarted, at which point everything repeats.

Radiator is blocked by cardboard (the owner did this) and cooling system is staying around 192 thanks to a new thermostat.

When heat would vanish the HC input hose was hot, outlet was barely warm to the touch. Thus I was certain I had an air pocket or restricted HC. I pulled the return hose at the wp and the flow seemed low, although I never found time to pull the HC supply to contrast.

SOOOOO, I pulled both hoses again. I flushed the HC with CLR (which, apparently, isn't good for Al or brass but I still left it in there for 10-15 minutes) and then with soapy water numerous times,, then with clean water numerous times.

So far, success! I was able to complete a reasonable test drive with good heat for the entire time. I know the cooling system still has a lot of Stop Leak hiding, so the HC may yet clog up again at which point I'm going to tell her the best bet is a new rad, new HC, and flush the block again

I did watch a YT vid about a product called Thoro Flush which is allegedly superior to the run of the mill rad flushes.

@Kennedy01
 
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