What are you working on today?

Installed a tall toilet in our basement bathroom. Last one done in the house. Now the man cave is matching the rest.

I didn't do electrical today. I have a couple PITA outlets to do in the house and then the garage. It's still a little chilly to do the garage. Long range forecast shows I should be good soon, which means the Cobra should be back home the end of March.
Just did AS 19” in the utility room and with a cylinder cooling jet 😵‍💫
 
It feels like all we got is cooling system jobs

Mini R56 - thermostat, pipe, water pump
Mini R57 - thermostat, pipe
X1 - aux radiator
S4 3.0 S/C - water pump, thermostat, coolant pipes
W205 C300 - thermostat
XC70 3.2 - thermostat
XF - thermostat
Panamera - water pump, thermostat, and all the vacuum stuff

And more coming later this week.
 
2015 BMW 328d:
-installed new serp belt & tensioner that owner purchased from Turner. It squeaked and chirped immediately :rolleyes: really sounds to me like one of the idlers is bad (the tensioner has two idlers)
-flushed coolant
-the owner had purchased a Turner pan for the ZF so we installed that. BMW prefers to retain all belly pans with a zillion fasteners in a mix of 8mm, T27 tamperproof Torx and 10mm nuts. Makes perfect sense.

New Turner pan in background:
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Tonight I'm going to be swapping out a wheel speed sensor on my son's pickup. The ABS has been activating during normal breaking. I can't find my Forscan compatible dongle so I can't get ABS codes but there is one sensor that doesn't have continuity so I am changing it out. Crossing fingers.
 
I assembled a pan/box brake, uncrated a scroll air compressor, and setup a small bandsaw. The air compressor is almost silent. These are for a shop being built by an entrepreneur incubator/ maker space that I’m consulting for.
 
Aftermath of the Lubegard experiment, looks like its leaking between the reservoir and pump. The new pump came with a small and big o-ring, no idea what the big o-ring went to. First time changing a PS pump, the puller and installer from HF worked perfectly. Was thinking I might rebuild this one and maybe it would fit on the RV minus the reservoir. Now I touched the negative terminal so it's demanding a new end lol.
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Two things that have been bugging me for a while.

First, the LS430 fog lamp took a hit. Unknown how this occurred; I have my suspicions but it's too late for accusations (no, it wasn't my wife; she would have been up front about it). The dealership noticed this when doing their walk-around back in January. I'm hoping that the adjustment and whatever attaches the lamp to the body isn't fubar. In true Toyota fashion, I can't find a parts diagram....yet.

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More concerning are the hi-beam bulbs aren't illuminating; both the highs and the DRL's (the 5005 bulbs serve both functions). any suggestions here are welcome.

High beam initial inspection:
  • Both fog lamps work.
  • Both high beams and DRL's don't work.
  • High beam indicator on instrument cluster illuminates.
  • The fogs turn off when I switch the high beams on.
The FSM states to do a function check with the hand-held tester (Vetronics). I got thru two menus of the menu tree and there is no function check for the lights. The SW is supposed to be current thru MY 2007.

I did a few visual checks. I do have the FSM wiring diagrams. It appears to be isolated to the high beam circuit; I find it hard to believe that both bulbs would go out at the same time. They were replaced back in October 2024.
 
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Had the local tow company come out and unlock the Ford Flex. Its been sitting plenty this Last month. It died during one very cold spell. I charged it up and had it running, fiat for it to sit and die over the last cold spell. The great thing was that I tried to command start it, which locks it. She didn't have enough juice to unlock. Ok, we got 3 fobs, I'll just manually unlock it...... nope, all 3 keys did not work.

Ok so what? It was bought used and very likely the original keys lost. So the keys never did work for it and are merely for show.... stupid ford, yes this is fords fault somehow.

Anyways, its unlocked, running with a new 750cca battery and a tender to go back in it. Stupid fords.
 
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Aftermath of the Lubegard experiment, looks like its leaking between the reservoir and pump. The new pump came with a small and big o-ring, no idea what the big o-ring went to. First time changing a PS pump, the puller and installer from HF worked perfectly. Was thinking I might rebuild this one and maybe it would fit on the RV minus the reservoir. Now I touched the negative terminal so it's demanding a new end lol.
ag
I would highly suggest that you keep, and rebuild the one that you just pulled, especially if it is the original unit. Your post does not say if the new pump is a new OEM or a remanufactured assembly. Many of the remanufactured pumps are quite "sketchy" in their quality, and I will not use them, as I have been burned twice. The first one leaked, and the second one blew its guts out and pumped shrapnel throughout the power steering system. THAT was a nightmare. The Saginaw design of pumps are fairly easily rebuilt due to their simplicity. The power steering fluid in your drain pan looks darn good. Rebuild that lil bugger and keep it on hand.
 
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2006 Silverado 1500:
-serviced transmission with OEM filter and pan gasket. Refilled with a gallon of VNL and about 1/2 qt of Transmax 'cause that'll anger someone
-serviced t-case. It's an NP246 and I had some ancient bottles of AT2 sitting around, so I used that 'cause it'll anger someone else. Is that a 2012 date code?
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-serviced front diff and used 75W90 conventional 'cause that'll anger almost everyone :D
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1998 Ram 1500 5.2/NV3500:
-just looked over it....wanted to look at a plug and I know better -- sure enough the wire pulled apart when I tugged on it. Fortunately I keep a box of new Magnum plug wires as spares because I know better. The NP231 really should be resealed but I don't think they're going to want to invest that much.
 
2006 Silverado 1500:
-serviced transmission with OEM filter and pan gasket. Refilled with a gallon of VNL and about 1/2 qt of Transmax 'cause that'll anger someone
-serviced t-case. It's an NP246 and I had some ancient bottles of AT2 sitting around, so I used that 'cause it'll anger someone else. Is that a 2012 date code?
View attachment 326856
-serviced front diff and used 75W90 conventional 'cause that'll anger almost everyone :D
I see that no one has been angered (as of yet) over your choice of fluids, and as I sincerely do not wish to see such a highly thought of member of BITOG, being disappointed, I shall attempt to, as best as I possibly can, imitate the reactions of the "partikular" species of which you are "pointing yer finger in the general vicinity thereoff............wait fer it.......ahem....(initiating the dreaded double face palm).... "WTFudge WERE YOU THINKING!!!" (OK, how did I do on a scale of 1-10? Wus it the reaction you were hoping fer? Oh, I want you ta know that I hurt ma finger typing that with so much exuberance, and I also skeered ma Coon hound if that increases ma score. He is sitting on the porch couch giving me a funny look)
 
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Don't buy gates products if you have other options. Gates is terrible now. Junk.
What's your basis for this claim? Can you point to credible unbiased data? Or is this just "everyone knows it" rhetoric?

I'm not saying you're wrong. I'd just like to understand the facts (or lack thereof) which lead you to this conclusion.
 
I would highly suggest that you keep, and rebuild the one that you just pulled, especially if it is the original unit. Your post does not say if the new pump is a new OEM or a remanufactured assembly. Many of the remanufactured pumps are quite "sketchy" in their quality, and I will not use them, as I have been burned twice. The first one leaked, and the second one blew its guts out and pumped shrapnel throughout the power steering system. THAT was a nightmare. The Saginaw design of pumps are fairly easily rebuilt due to their simplicity. The power steering fluid in your drain pan looks darn good. Rebuild that lil bugger and keep it on hand.
That's exactly why I'm not sending it back as a core. The replacement is a reman. I don't know if the pump I pulled was factory or not. Once it's a bit warmer and less wet going to clean it and rebuild it. I've seen a few videos rebuilding the saginaw and doesn't look difficult.
 
What's your basis for this claim? Can you point to credible unbiased data? Or is this just "everyone knows it" rhetoric?

I'm not saying you're wrong. I'd just like to understand the facts (or lack thereof) which lead you to this conclusion.
I've had to replace their idler pulleys on both the Express and Dakota with hardly any miles, chirping on both. Don't know his reasoning but I won't be buying gates going forward.
 
Had the local tow company come out and unlock the Ford Flex. Its been sitting plenty this Last month. It died during one very cold spell. I charged it up and had it running, fiat for it to sit and die over the last cold spell. The great thing was that I tried to command start it, which locks it. She didn't have enough juice to unlock. Ok, we got 3 fobs, I'll just manually unlock it...... nope, all 3 keys did not work.

Ok so what? It was bought used and very likely the original keys lost. So the keys never did work for it and are merely for show.... stupid ford, yes this is fords fault somehow.
So, when you bought the vehicle, you never tried the physical keys???
That sounds like a you issue.
I certainly did check to make sure that the physical keys worked on a used vehicle, and actually went out of my way to make additional physical keys that I also checked.
 
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