What are you working on today?

Keep the RPM up around 1800 or so after it builds initial oil pressure for 15 to 20 minutes, I vacuum fill the cooling system so no need to worry about burping the system.
Shut the engine down, Change the oil & filter to get the Lubriplate out, Take it on a drive varying RPM, Load, & use engine braking if available for about 30 minutes.
Instruct the owner to have the oil changed @ 1000 miles.

I use 15W40 diesel oil for the initial fill, Then 10W30 conventional for the test drive. Recommend 5W30 synthetic after 1000 miles.

The same for all GM LS/LT & Hemi engines I build.
Lubriplate your preferred assembly lube of choice ????

C12C0F0A-59EC-4934-97E2-DE6995E2F5DA.webp
 
I see that know
On the front instead of the rear

What’s your plan for this engine ??

And good to see you post Been awhile since I’ve seen anything from you !!👍👍

It's for a customers 2014 Dodge Ram.

I get a lot of repetitious jobs....How many 4L60E & 6L80E builds, AFM/MDS deletes do I post about.....Differential builds, Press work for other shops etc?
 
It's for a customers 2014 Dodge Ram.

I get a lot of repetitious jobs....How many 4L60E & 6L80E builds, AFM/MDS deletes do I post about.....Differential builds, Press work for other shops etc?
🤔 Guess I don’t know since I don’t have a need to know. Sorry I ask
 
Wasn't my intension to be tacky.
Came across that way Most of us here on this forum are novice at best So all we’re wanting to know is info to help us gain knowledge nothing more
I’m a shade tree mechanic
I change oil
Spark plugs
Rotate tires
Change brakes
Replace rotors and pads
Ect and so forth
So thank you for the ones who know a 💩ton more than the rest of us !!👍👍👍
Thank you !!!
 
Keep the RPM up around 1800 or so after it builds initial oil pressure for 15 to 20 minutes, I vacuum fill the cooling system so no need to worry about burping the system.
Shut the engine down, Change the oil & filter to get the Lubriplate out, Take it on a drive varying RPM, Load, & use engine braking if available for about 30 minutes.
Instruct the owner to have the oil changed @ 1000 miles.

I use 15W40 diesel oil for the initial fill, Then 10W30 conventional for the test drive. Recommend 5W30 synthetic after 1000 miles.

The same for all GM LS/LT & Hemi engines I build.
Solid. I've stuck to the 2200 rpm for 20 minutes method and it's worked well. Changed out break in fill then road test, much like you do.
 
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Brakes and oil changes all day

2011 Toyota Sequoia
Replaced front brake pads and rotors, changed oil

2015 Chevrolet Equinox
Replaced front brake pads and rotors, replaced air filter, changed oil

1998 Chevrolet Tahoe
Replaced rear wheel cylinders, cleaned rear brakes, changed oil

I've got the drums off the Tahoe to turn in the morning at home, then I'll go in to work and put them on and adjust the rear brakes
 
I was toying with this Solus Ultra I picked up recently, and I was curious if it could still be updated
Turns out Snap on trucks won't touch it anymore, and it was $500-$1000+ even when they did
I found a guy on a forum somewhere who for $50, made me the files to take it from how I bought it (13.2) to the last update they made for it (21.4)
I also gained Euro brands, and Harley-Davidson support
Even though it's older, it seems to hold it's own
Responsive, fast to power on, and if it lists a function, you can bet it works
A little different than the Autel/Launch products I cut my teeth on
View attachment 265078
View attachment 265079

I have a Solus Ultra, It's been a very good scan tool, Just got a Solus Plus & it's the fastest load time scan tool I've ever seen.

Snap-on data graphing is some of the best in the industry...But it still helps to only graph the PID's you need instead of the whole data list.
 
Both of my vehicles aligned on needing oil changes and air filters. Was really cold out so I've been waiting for warmer weather to use the plastic ramps and spend time in my unheated garage. Wife wanted to watch It Ends With Us on TV so it aligned perfectly on Sunday. Had an issue with a new brand of air filter that had a thicker seal and took a bit more force to push the cover down and get it clipped in. The Camry...I dropped the oil filter cannister, spilled oil on the floor, got some oil in my eye, but it all worked out. Then I didn't have an extra air filter so add to order them.

About two weeks ago in the Camry I ran over a tire/wheel laying in the middle of the highway. It was dark out and at the top of slight hill and there was no time to swerve safely. It didn't seem to cause any damage and nothing was leaking so I wasn't too worried. Looking underneath the only damage was to the plastic cover that lost 3 plastic pins but stayed in tact.
 
Started the morning by turning the drums for the 98 Tahoe, then adjusting the rear brakes and installing the drums on it.

2016 Ford F-150 5.0 V8
Had a P0022 code for an over retarded intake camshaft on bank 2, running rough and stalling. After doing a little reading I came across the HK11 pinpoint test for clearing debris from the VCT actuator solenoid. Basically hotwire the offending solenoid directly to the battery with a couple of 5 amp fused jumpers while the engine is running.

Kind of a hit or miss test because it's supposed to change engine speed or cause rough idle when the actuator is activated, if either the solenoid has successfully been cleared OR the condition isn't currently present....only a road test is conclusive. I put about 20 miles on it after the procedure with 3 drive cycles and the code stayed cleared and the condition didn't return. Time will tell if I fixed it. Also changed the oil to flush out any debris that might've been in the solenoid.

2011 Ford F-150
Replaced front brake pads and rotors, right front brake caliper, right front abs sensor, rotated tires, replaced air filter, changed oil
 
The Hemi is ready to drop in sans valve covers....

Most of us know these engines are notorious for manifold bolts breaking, I use ARP 8740 on all LS/LT engines....ARP doesn't make a bolt kit for Hemi Manifolds so I measured the originals & came up with 45mm UHL, 50mm UHL ARP 661-1007 is a perfect length. Should work on all '09 & up 5.7L & 6.4L Hemi truck engines.

Tightened the bolts to 21 foot pounds in several passes using red loctite

Tr77uHW.jpeg

zFJztU9.jpeg

9nymxmk.jpeg

gRSkn6a.jpeg

SzqRi36.jpeg
 
The Hemi is ready to drop in sans valve covers....

Most of us know these engines are notorious for manifold bolts breaking, I use ARP 8740 on all LS/LT engines....ARP doesn't make a bolt kit for Hemi Manifolds so I measured the originals & came up with 45mm UHL, 50mm UHL ARP 661-1007 is a perfect length. Should work on all '09 & up 5.7L & 6.4L Hemi truck engines.

Tightened the bolts to 21 foot pounds in several passes using red loctite

Tr77uHW.jpeg

zFJztU9.jpeg

9nymxmk.jpeg

gRSkn6a.jpeg

SzqRi36.jpeg
That's too pretty to stuff under the cowl of a ram. Super nice work!
 
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