What are you working on today?

Put the shell back on the Dakota with a new foam seal. Time to get back to work. With the shell off it’s nice to haul tall stuff but thats rare, locking stuff back there without disappearing is more useful. Need two trucks.. thinking a F350 for the new place 😂
Are you moving?
 
Didn't feel great today so not super productive. However the wife recently installed laminate floors downstairs and now our washer walks from the wall.

Three 1/4-20 nutserts and plastic wall anchors:
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I already had this sheet of Al mostly broke up, so I used it, plus we get a bonus shelf:
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Then at rear right I used an extra closet rod bracket, lopping off the hook for the rod. Two more nutserts into washer and two plastic anchors into the concrete wall:
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Now to do a load of laundry and see if my plan works....
 
I didn't do much in the shop today, mostly a business meeting, making calls, and then fun time for me at the gym working out, and sparring.
Wife worked out with me, and she even did a little easy sparring in the ring. She won't win any MMA Championships, but she would surely surprise a regular Joe who made the mistake of picking a fight with her.
 
Wrapped the CV axle reboot and new hub install after work, the gym and grabbing extra clamps. I used all the ones that were included with the boot clamp tool I ordered. The clamps in the Toyota kit didn’t work for the outboard joint - and I left one out on the inboard joint. I used “universal” ear-style clamps, I picked up a Dorman set just in case.

I’ll order some real Oetiker ones for the passenger side.

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Wrapped the CV axle reboot and new hub install after work, the gym and grabbing extra clamps. I used all the ones that were included with the boot clamp tool I ordered. The clamps in the Toyota kit didn’t work for the outboard joint - and I left one out on the inboard joint. I used “universal” ear-style clamps, I picked up a Dorman set just in case.

I’ll order some real Oetiker ones for the passenger side.

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One of the best things I did was order an assortment of Oetiker style. Now I ditch the fold-over bent-ear style and use the better ones.

This is one of those things that's inexplicably readily available on Amazon or ebay but parts stores stare at you like you're asking for a cheeseburger.
 
One of the best things I did was order an assortment of Oetiker style. Now I ditch the fold-over bent-ear style and use the better ones.

This is one of those things that's inexplicably readily available on Amazon or ebay but parts stores stare at you like you're asking for a cheeseburger.
Oddly enough, I saw a set at O’Reilly. I grabbed it.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: D60
Diagnosed the steering wheel shuddering/whatever you want to call it when going into low speed turns with my Ram. Thought power steering pump was failing but it ended up being the left front axle u-joint binding up. Took a lot of force to rotate the tire when the wheel was turned far left & right.

U-joints were last replaced 12/12/2019 at 118,596 miles. Over 194,4xx miles on it now, so a little over 75k on them. I’ll have to get it in and have them replaced again soon, might as well do both at the same time.
 
Didn't feel great today so not super productive. However the wife recently installed laminate floors downstairs and now our washer walks from the wall.

Three 1/4-20 nutserts and plastic wall anchors:
View attachment 261023
I already had this sheet of Al mostly broke up, so I used it, plus we get a bonus shelf:
View attachment 261024
Then at rear right I used an extra closet rod bracket, lopping off the hook for the rod. Two more nutserts into washer and two plastic anchors into the concrete wall:
View attachment 261025
Now to do a load of laundry and see if my plan works....
Beautiful work @D60. Depending on the forces involved it may shake other things or even pull away. If it fails, or starts cracking Sheetrock elsewhere, consider anchoring it with threaded fasteners at the anchor points and either a guard on the floor and/or lengths of bicycle inner-tube, which can handle a lot of pulling and tension without fuss.
 
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Working on inop Lil Belch. It has a few issues, a busted rear shock, bent rim, and it wont start. Going through troubleshooting: the battery cables looked terrible, but the battery is fine, tried another known good battery, nope. There are two proximity interlock switches, the clutch safety seems to be working, the hydraulic switch I am skeptical about as it does not seem to be moving its full range. I might try to bypass it since its simply a 2 wire switch. My tractor has every safety already bypassed similarly due to age and previous owner's neglect. Engine oil looks fine, the engine turns over freely, the exhaust manifold, hoses, etc itself looks like it only has 100 hours vs the working Lil Chooch at 995 hours I already have at the ranch. Its raining the next few days. I also have a few remote starter switches coming to try and force things along if i need to. There is another fuel cutoff solenoid to deal with as well, but I have a spare if i need it.

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The upper knob is the dump up/down, the lower red arrow is the magnetic safety switch.

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2004 Dodge Ram 1500
Replaced drivers side headlight socket and bulb

2004 GMC Sierra 1500
Replaced shift interlock solenoid

1996 Ford Ranger
Replaced radiator, tightened a loose ground cable at the starter, changed oil. Trying to diagnose a surging/stalling issue as well.
 
Putting a used engine in the car I was previously working on with the water pump failure that took the engine out with it. This one had a broken front cover from an accident so I had to pull the cover off another engine to use on this one. Replaced the timing set with the water pump, for preventative measure. Also changes the secondary chain tensioners and guides. Nice and easy on a stand.

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2017 Chrysler Pacifica 3.6 V6
Cleaned throttle body, replaced air filter, changed oil

2001 Chevrolet Malibu
Replaced brake booster

Messed with the 96 Ranger a little more, starting to think it may have a bad torque converter
 
Working on inop Lil Belch. It has a few issues, a busted rear shock, bent rim, and it wont start. Going through troubleshooting: the battery cables looked terrible, but the battery is fine, tried another known good battery, nope. There are two proximity interlock switches, the clutch safety seems to be working, the hydraulic switch I am skeptical about as it does not seem to be moving its full range. I might try to bypass it since its simply a 2 wire switch. My tractor has every safety already bypassed similarly due to age and previous owner's neglect. Engine oil looks fine, the engine turns over freely, the exhaust manifold, hoses, etc itself looks like it only has 100 hours vs the working Lil Chooch at 995 hours I already have at the ranch. Its raining the next few days. I also have a few remote starter switches coming to try and force things along if i need to. There is another fuel cutoff solenoid to deal with as well, but I have a spare if i need it.

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The upper knob is the dump up/down, the lower red arrow is the magnetic safety switch.

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Lil Belch lives, I think there is a wire messed up somewhere in the hydraulic interlock. Hooked up a remote starter switch. Sounds excellent, electric fan kicks in at the right temperature, bed goes up and down. Will change the oil/filter and fix up some nitpicky things in the future, have a bit of other things to do the next few weeks.

 
A few days ago, I'd brought the 1998 CRV to an indie for a timing belt change (TB 10 years old). While there, I decided to have the squeaking front suspension fixed and a leaking steering rack as well. TB, original water pump, tensioner bearing, crankshaft Oil seal, camshaft oil seals were all changed, steering rack overhauled and upper control arms, lower control arm bushings were all replaced. New valve cover gasket and spark plug tube doughnut O rings of course. I opened up the distributor cap, inside was all dry so I left it alone (big mistake, but it was 4pm already and we didn't have the replacement inside distributor shaft oil seal at hand). I did have them change the distributor outside O-ring though.

Took 6 hours, engine started on first try, everything was peachy, took the car home. An hour later, only to find engine area and transmission below the distributor to be thoroughly wet with oil. The previously dry insides of the distributor were wet with oil. Apparently it leaked on the way home. I garaged the car, removed the distributor, engine soaked areas were degreased.

Took the distributor back to the indie days later. Had them replace the inside distributor shaft oil seal. For insurance, the newish outside o-ring was also replaced with a new one that was just a wee bit thicker than the original one. I buttoned up my 1998 CRV distributor into place. Everything is dry, no leaks.
 
New BlueTop steering box and Cardone p/s pump in an '01 TJ

I've actually never done a box in a TJ but unlike fullsize trucks there's very little room above to get at the line fittings or the steering shaft collar bolt. I opted to disconnect from the frame and support on my trans jack, which worked beautifully:
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You actually don't even need to remove the pitman arm from the drag link, just pull the arm and shove the steering linkage out of the way:
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New and old. Woulda been nice if BlueTop included o-rings, but I had extras:
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After SOP bleeding unweighted lock-to-lock she was still a bit noisy. I then pulled around 15 inches and started 'er up again and went lock to lock a couple times. She's now silent, running M1 ATF. Love it!
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While the belt was off I spun the idler and it sounded like a skateboard. Upon removal it almost looks like the orange shroud kinda melted at some point, never seen this before:
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Pressing in a fresh 6203:
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