What are you working on today?

2005 Suburban power steering leak. Pressure line from pump to hydroboost leaking at the lower crimp.

I guess 20 years was a good service life. Replaced and refilled the reservoir with Dex III atf (TES-295).

Tight squeeze fitting my meat hammers in between the drag link and sway bar to get the new line started on the pump.
 
Replaced radiator on '08 Mountaineer with 4.6 3V. Used a Taiwanese Denso which fit great.

I watched an FTM vid which covers the whole thing but he got the whole rad out magically. Try as I might I could NOT get the whole thing (cue Patrick Warburton: "That's why FTM's famous, and you're not"), so I finally had to disconnect the right hand side piece then got it out. Honestly, I found the whole job to be a minor PITA, but that's because I was expecting less hassle.

The biggest problem was the trans lines, which I LATER learned through MORE research is common. In a separate vid on just the lines, FTM says they're often the worst part of the job, and he's right. Even with the correct tool they rarely come apart.

These used a plastic ring and I finally got medieval and melted it out with MAPP while prying apart with tube pliers. This worked beautifully:
20240328_232125.jpg
 
Today I'm debating. Debating if I should go up on the roof, 2.5 stories up and a PITA to get onto. I have to fix the chimney cap, that got wrecked during a windstorm. My problem is I don't have my wife around to call an ambulance if things go bad and I take a dive. It's also a little cold, and my not so young body just doesn't feel like going up on the roof today. So I might end up doing nothing. ;)
 
Today I'm debating. Debating if I should go up on the roof, 2.5 stories up and a PITA to get onto. I have to fix the chimney cap, that got wrecked during a windstorm. My problem is I don't have my wife around to call an ambulance if things go bad and I take a dive. It's also a little cold, and my not so young body just doesn't feel like going up on the roof today. So I might end up doing nothing. ;)

Hey at this age I’m all about safety harnessing. $100 at Home Depot.
 
Today I'm debating. Debating if I should go up on the roof, 2.5 stories up and a PITA to get onto. I have to fix the chimney cap, that got wrecked during a windstorm. My problem is I don't have my wife around to call an ambulance if things go bad and I take a dive. It's also a little cold, and my not so young body just doesn't feel like going up on the roof today. So I might end up doing nothing. ;)
I hope you will wait until there is a severe electrical storm, no one else home, use an old wooden ladder that is way too short for your roof, and repeatedly jump up and down on your roof to test structural integrity as you attempt the repairs. Safety pin a note conspicuously to your body that provides info on your preferences for hospital and morgue.

That should do it.
 
2000 Volvo V70 rear wiper motor

The metal ear tabs had become loose causing intermittent operation. Used a Knipex plier long enough to grab both the tab and the end of the motor casing. The motor mounting screws were a loose. They were tightened with thread locker.

Wiper motor works well now.

2mm butyl rubber and 4mm acoustic foam sound deadening was added to the tail gate.

IMG_5989.jpeg


IMG_5988.jpeg


IMG_5990.jpeg


IMG_5991.jpeg
 
FINALLY finished up this '08 Mountaineer for a member of our church.

-It had initially come in for struts all around. This was an easy diagnosis as it was a bit like riding a pogo stick on a trampoline.
-While wheels were off for struts I found all brake pads either down to the metal or ~2mm. So, brakes at all four corners.
-Discovered oil overfilled 2qts by Jiffy Lube, so changed the oil free of charge.
-While sitting in my shop discovered radiator leak from cracked upper tank, so new radiator.
-While fan and shroud are removed it's sooooo easy to get at the FEAD. Found serp belt stiff and cracked, so new belt. The 3V Fords use FOUR idlers if you count the tensioner pulley, and you'd be a fool not to check them while the belt is off. Was able to press new 6203s into two of them. The plastic grooved pulley got replaced with a steel 36157. The fourth felt good
-Repaired the stupid brake/PARK interlock pin that falls out of the plastic shifter rod

Finished for now....kinda. Still waiting on an ebay shifter assy just to get the micro switch that allows the key to be removed from the ignition
 
FINALLY finished up this '08 Mountaineer for a member of our church.

-It had initially come in for struts all around. This was an easy diagnosis as it was a bit like riding a pogo stick on a trampoline.
-While wheels were off for struts I found all brake pads either down to the metal or ~2mm. So, brakes at all four corners.
-Discovered oil overfilled 2qts by Jiffy Lube, so changed the oil free of charge.
-While sitting in my shop discovered radiator leak from cracked upper tank, so new radiator.
-While fan and shroud are removed it's sooooo easy to get at the FEAD. Found serp belt stiff and cracked, so new belt. The 3V Fords use FOUR idlers if you count the tensioner pulley, and you'd be a fool not to check them while the belt is off. Was able to press new 6203s into two of them. The plastic grooved pulley got replaced with a steel 36157. The fourth felt good
-Repaired the stupid brake/PARK interlock pin that falls out of the plastic shifter rod

Finished for now.
Good god. Might as well have kept going and replaced the engine and trans.
 
I hope you will wait until there is a severe electrical storm, no one else home, use an old wooden ladder that is way too short for your roof, and repeatedly jump up and down on your roof to test structural integrity as you attempt the repairs. Safety pin a note conspicuously to your body that provides info on your preferences for hospital and morgue.

That should do it.
I'll make sure to do that, only I'll hold a graphite rod in my hand while jumping on the roof.
 
Got the engine out of the Silverado donor. Both engines are on stands and ready to have components swapped come Monday. Looking forward to not doing much except some cleaning around the house and a pass over the yard with the mower this weekend.
 
New battery terminals on a 2014 Grand Caravan
These SAE/DIN/ISO terminals are superior to those pot metal lead garbage ones
I had to get the flange nuts separate at Home Depot 🤷‍♂️
1000010421.jpg

Oil change on my neighbor's 2004 V6 Highlander
It got Total LL 5w30 and a 910s
Should do it nicely for its standard 6m/5k OCI
Most every light bulb on the back end was blown or inop
They use these stupid bulb holders with contacts that were corroded, plus some corroded pins in the connector
I'll wire brush and Deoxit them better next weekend
Plate light was out, screws stripped, had to break the lens off
Now I know why the other side has wood screws holding it in 🤨
1000010439.jpg

Someone's been here before 🙄
Now I gotta order new lenses and screws
1000010438.jpg

Oh joy 👀
90% of the rear lights now work, the CHMSL melted out
I'm ordering a cheap LED replacement for next weekend

It could really use the headlights polished (and 9012 modded), the drive belts squeak on startup, might adjust them
Power steering is overfilled, I think the intermediate shaft is sticking/clunking
Hatch struts are no longer holding
Probably needs cabin filter, wiper blades, my usually maintenance work
It's developed an appetite for brake fluid, with no leaks
I thought that kinda suspicious, but strange things happen to 20 year old cars with 109,000 on them
I ran the plate number to get the VIN number to get the part # for the plate light lenses
It has 2 open recalls FROM 14 YEARS AGO
It needs a master cylinder rebuild + new booster if fluid contaminated, and a new driver's floor mat with more retention hooks
He's the original owner, how he spaced on these I have no idea 🙄
Everything in time 🤔
 
Not today but yesterday: changed transmission fluid and filter and done brakes on all 4 corners for my single mom friend. It reminded me why I never want to be a Ford tech in my life lol. Rear brakes luckily disk were an absolute pain because of the bolt location and twist back calipers. I was worn out from doing that stuff yesterday lol. I also figured out why she has been losing brake fluid too the shop that swapped the front pads left the bleeder screw loose. They charged her $190 two months ago to swap the pads. I went ahead and put new ones on with the new rotors. No since using old pads with new rotors.
 
Taking the oil temp, oil pressure and volt meters off the old JD F510. It no longer gets used enough to be concerned with the details. It has an oil pressure light. Going to put them on the new JD Z320m if I can figure out where to mount them. Also going to put the oil cooler that I had on the F510 on the new JD. Need to change the oil on it and mount the adapters to the oil filter.
 
Not today , yesterday :). Few days ago the ENGINE light came on for the '13 FIT for the 1st time . Used the code reader that was recently purchased from Walmart for $49.98 and showed P2185 code . Stated ECT ( Engine Coolant Temperature ) sensor 2 . GOOGLED it and showed videos of the unit with broken wire(s) . Sure enough it had a separated wire and seems like a common problem for the FIT . Had to cut a piece of stashed wire ( 🐿️ ) about 2 inches long and attached it between the broken wires and taped it heavily . Didn't have any splice connectors and had to twist them together . Put the front tires on ramps to get some elbow room . The guard made it difficult to make the repair and tried to remove a push pin and it partially broke off due to being old and brittle . Decided to leave it be . Erased the code and started the car and no ENGINE light . Then took it for a 8 >10 mile trip and no light as of yet . If the light returns will likely use the splice connectors purchased yesterday . Keeping fingers 🤞ed .

IMG_3478.JPG
IMG_3480.JPG
IMG_3814.JPG
IMG_3812.JPG
IMG_3821.JPG
IMG_3832.JPG
IMG_3836.JPG
 
Last edited:
Back
Top