Well the minivan is an oil burner
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When you get ready to change the oil. I have added a quart or more of kerosene to the oil and let it fast idle for 1/2 hour. Then drain it and put in fresh oil and filter. May take a couple of times. Seems to work to loosen stuck rings. Other option is engine rebuild or replacement. Even though PCV rattles, replace it. Take off oil fill cap and see if there is suction when you put your hand over the hole. If not then PCV not working or the engine is in bad condition.
Perform a dry then a wet compression test. People mention doing "piston soaks" frequently.
Make sure the MAF sensor is clean. Errant air data could cause the system to add more fuel which washes oil off cylinder walls.
Can you test the upstream O2 sensors' efficiency? Again, bad data can result in added fuel leading to washed cylinders.
There are truly cheap oils out there. Bad ones don't have the same "staying power".
Also, if your vehicle was run on conventional oil and was switched to synthetics, you may see an uptick in oil use.
Also, people seem always to suggest trying a "thicker" grade of oil.
Valve stem seals are key in keeping oil out of cylinders. If they go, oil consumption rises.
Make sure the MAF sensor is clean. Errant air data could cause the system to add more fuel which washes oil off cylinder walls.
Can you test the upstream O2 sensors' efficiency? Again, bad data can result in added fuel leading to washed cylinders.
There are truly cheap oils out there. Bad ones don't have the same "staying power".
Also, if your vehicle was run on conventional oil and was switched to synthetics, you may see an uptick in oil use.
Also, people seem always to suggest trying a "thicker" grade of oil.
Valve stem seals are key in keeping oil out of cylinders. If they go, oil consumption rises.
At 100k miles, not much. Replace the pcv , and keep it topped off. Biggest risk is running low and losing the engine.
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I'd give Valvoline PBR a shot in it if you are able to get it, might help.
Keep it topped off with your favorite synthetic oil and enjoy many more miles. Most vehicles I ever owed have burned oil. Worst one was Ford qt every 200 miles.
Mopars generally don’t use MAF, they use MAP. Otherwise this is an excellent list to go through.
I know you recently bought the van but don't remember the details , was this a one owner van ? maybe used as a grocery getter ?
I would take it out and run it to some high rpms, drive it like you stole it as they say, also run a oil change or two of the valvoline pbr which is pricey and hard to find in some places or a run of diesel oil might help !!..
Just read your first post, so pretty much driven by a mature adult, did you change the oil or run the trip with what was in it ?if it was 5w20 i would definitely move up to a 5w30, do a change or two with the hdeo.. these engines really were not designed around a 5w20 oil.
I would take it out and run it to some high rpms, drive it like you stole it as they say, also run a oil change or two of the valvoline pbr which is pricey and hard to find in some places or a run of diesel oil might help !!..
Just read your first post, so pretty much driven by a mature adult, did you change the oil or run the trip with what was in it ?if it was 5w20 i would definitely move up to a 5w30, do a change or two with the hdeo.. these engines really were not designed around a 5w20 oil.
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internets says:
Excess Oil Consumption Issue
Problem Description
Excessive oil consumption—defined as more than one quart per 1,000 miles (on vehicles with less than 50,000 miles) or more than one quart per 750 miles (on vehicles with more than 50,000 miles)—is common. Common causes include exhaust valve guides, valve cover gaskets, camshaft plugs, camshaft seals, and crankshaft seal.
Are you sure its consumption and not leaking?
Excess Oil Consumption Issue
Problem Description
Excessive oil consumption—defined as more than one quart per 1,000 miles (on vehicles with less than 50,000 miles) or more than one quart per 750 miles (on vehicles with more than 50,000 miles)—is common. Common causes include exhaust valve guides, valve cover gaskets, camshaft plugs, camshaft seals, and crankshaft seal.
Are you sure its consumption and not leaking?
I had an '07 T&C with the 3.8. It started using oil at around 80,000 miles.
Use 5w-30 High Mileage if you aren't already doing so. You don't need to use 5w-20 in southern Missouri.
You might also be seeing increased consumption from changing brands, from what the previous owner used, as well. That should taper off with time.
Use 5w-30 High Mileage if you aren't already doing so. You don't need to use 5w-20 in southern Missouri.
You might also be seeing increased consumption from changing brands, from what the previous owner used, as well. That should taper off with time.
Add Gumout Multi-System as directed (1oz per quart) to the oil crankcase and run for 10minutes. Put the rest in the fuel.
Top off with Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic of the highest weight oil the car manual allows. Next oil change go for all Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic.
Drive it like you stole it to clean out the engine (high rpms).
If the above makes it *worse* you can “hail mary” with this before a motor replacement.
https://www.amazon.com/XADO-Stage-Metal-Conditioner-Revitalizant/dp/B004TMP18G
Good luck those motors aren’t great.
EDIT: Actually on second thought top off with the cheapest Maxlife you can find (synthetic blend) until it starts using less oil. No need to throw away money...
Top off with Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic of the highest weight oil the car manual allows. Next oil change go for all Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic.
Drive it like you stole it to clean out the engine (high rpms).
If the above makes it *worse* you can “hail mary” with this before a motor replacement.
https://www.amazon.com/XADO-Stage-Metal-Conditioner-Revitalizant/dp/B004TMP18G
Good luck those motors aren’t great.
EDIT: Actually on second thought top off with the cheapest Maxlife you can find (synthetic blend) until it starts using less oil. No need to throw away money...
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I’ve had the 3.8 and it’s 3.3 sibling. Got good, if not great, service out of both. Move up to 10-30 weight, that will help. I’d actually run that along with sea foam, at least half a can, in the sump for 10k miles - doing this has helped me with more than one used vehicle, and I’d stay with a synthetic oil. A high mileage syn oil might also help if this is a rubber seal issue.
yes, the 3.8 is known to consume oil. It’s also a pretty solid and reliable engine, and not bad to work on. Try not to beat yourself up about it - I hope it settles down for you.
m
yes, the 3.8 is known to consume oil. It’s also a pretty solid and reliable engine, and not bad to work on. Try not to beat yourself up about it - I hope it settles down for you.
m
Running Seafoam in the sump is basically for the same purpose as the Gumout. Seafoam is 1st generation. Cyclohex* is 2nd gen (Auto-RX, BG EPR and others) and Gumout/Techron/PEA is 3rd generation. Use the PEA.
EDIT: I should qualify PEA is better due to the safety profile for causing things like seal leaks I’m not saying Seafoam doesn’t work.
EDIT: I should qualify PEA is better due to the safety profile for causing things like seal leaks I’m not saying Seafoam doesn’t work.
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I haven’t changed the oil since buying it since it was just done right before I bought it. I think I’ll change the oil and move to a thicker grade. I know this engine wasn’t designed when 5w20 was a thing so I’ll move up. See if it tapers off. No smoke or anything and it runs flawlessly. Should I changed the pcv ?
Those engines were really good. They were known to use oil, saw lots of customers come in with no oil on the stick or very little, but we never saw one blow up. Occasional intake manifold leaks from pitting of the aluminum, and a coolant hose underneath that rusted out and leaked, but all in all a good long lasting motor.
If I had the opportunity for it to sit for a bit I would probably try to do a piston soak, if it was mine. Possibly sludged up rings.
If I had the opportunity for it to sit for a bit I would probably try to do a piston soak, if it was mine. Possibly sludged up rings.
I tried the piston soak with the BMW injector cleaner on my Accord 2.4L but did not observe any meaningful results. I know it’s not the same but my advice would echo the above. Just step up to and top off with 5w30 HM and don’t hassle with any supposed treatments. I found SuperTech conventional is the most economical.
I like, use, and recommend Supertech but I have to recommend Valvoline over Supertech for the High Mileage version based on my experience for this case. Maybe switch to Supertech HM after the Valvoline Maxlife synblend does its thing.
OP asked above, "Should I change the pcv ?"
If it has one, yes. In any potential "neglected oil scenario" sludgy deposits may have built up.
The PCV may rattle but it may not be opening/closing fully. Also the spring inside ages.
Changing a PCV is common maintenance which likely wasn't performed anyway.
Did the vehicle come with any records?
If it has one, yes. In any potential "neglected oil scenario" sludgy deposits may have built up.
The PCV may rattle but it may not be opening/closing fully. Also the spring inside ages.
Changing a PCV is common maintenance which likely wasn't performed anyway.
Did the vehicle come with any records?
I have not had a single vehicle use that much oil since the 70's. My 82 Celica, after It got over about 150,000 miles burned a half quart about every 3K miles, and that is the most of any vehicle I have had since then. IMO, modern vehicles should not burn more than a quart in 5K miles, of course how it is driven can contribute to consumption.
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