Weird spark plug wire issue

[paulri]

This morning, doing my first spark plug change, on the Civic. 3 of the four are just fine. The first one has got me worried. As you can see in the pic, the wire has not set properly. Believe it or not, that is as far as it is going. The other three came off (and then went back on) just fine. This one, the first one, has got me confused. I don't know how well you can tell from the pic, but the one on the right is sitting about 1/4 inch higher than the others.

I have not started the car--if possible, I'd like to get this sorted out before I turn on the ignition.

Does this mean that I have to twist the plug itself lower into the threads, to allow the wire to sit properly? FWIW, I do hear and feel a plop when I place the wire onto the plug, and it does require a decent amount of force to pull that first wire off.

Suggestions?

 

[Eddie]

I'd remove the plug and check the thread length first. Possibly the wrong plug or miss labeled. Ed

 

[StevieC]

Check to make sure that the metal contact inside isn't bent and not clipping onto the spark-plug but rather sitting on the top of the plug. I've seen this before. It's a sad bit hard looking down the boot, you will need a flash light.

You can also try temporarily fitting it on another spark plug and see if it seats properly to prove if it's something with the plug or this sparkplug wire.

 

[paulri]

I'll do this (and follow the first suggestion too), but first I want to be clear what I'm doing. I look inside the wire, to make sure that the metal contact inside is straight?

Originally Posted by StevieC
Check to make sure that the metal contact inside isn't bent and not clipping onto the spark-plug but rather sitting on the top of the plug. I've seen this before. It's a sad bit hard looking down the boot, you will need a flash light.

You can also try temporarily fitting it on another spark plug and see if it seats properly to prove if it's something with the plug or this sparkplug wire.

 

[StevieC]

The easiest is to try fitting it on a another spark plug and see if it sits high the same way. If it does the problem is with that wire (most likely a bent contact inside). If it doesn't investigate what's going on with the plug it won't sit properly on.

You can measure the height of the plug to the top of the spark plug tube on the affected plug and the one that is fine to see if they are installed to the same depth if it's not the wire that is the problem.

 

[paulri]

Great idea. I'll report back in a few mins.

Originally Posted by StevieC
The easiest is to try fitting it on a another spark plug and see if it sits high the same way. If it does the problem is with that wire (most likely a bent contact inside). If it doesn't investigate what's going on with the plug it won't sit properly on.

You can measure the height of the plug to the top of the spark plug tube on the affected plug and the one that is fine to see if they are installed to the same depth if it's not the wire that is the problem.

 

[paulri]

What do you know? The first wire sits just fine on the second one (the one on the left in my pic). And yes, both wires/tubes are the same length.

So that means that the spark plug itself is still sitting too high in the threads, correct?

At this point, I think I need to pull it out like Eddie suggested (pretty sure I matched the numbers when I first got them, but its worth a shot anyways), and then twist it in even farther than it is now?

 

[sloinker]

It should bottom out and require some additional turning or torque . If you are stopping prior to this procedure you are doing it wrong. Dependent on age you should also change the wires/cap/rotor if equipped or the coil pack if not.

 

[paulri]

The wires are only 60K miles old, and they looked pretty good except for a bit of corrosion/rust at the end of the wire (where it sits on the spark plug). I applied a bit of dielectric grease to them all.

I will be changing the cap & rotor on a future weekend--I've already bought those parts from my local Honda dealer.

Originally Posted by sloinker
It should bottom out and require some additional turning or torque . If you are stopping prior to this procedure you are doing it wrong. Dependent on age you should also change the wires/cap/rotor if equipped or the coil pack if not.

 

[paulri]

Looks like what the problem was, was that the plug itself was not in the threads deep enough. I saw how deep the ratchet was sitting in the problem one, as well as one that was fine, and it was about 1/4 inch or so higher. So I went in and turned it a few turns around. Strange, I could have sworn that I tightened it as far as I could, before.

Well, at least that problem is solved. Car started up just fine. Thanks to all who posted here. First time I changed the spark plugs, ever.

 

[JeffKeryk]

There may have been some debris on the plug threads which felt like the plug was seated.
I will probably get villified, but I always spray a little WD-40 down the tube to clean the threads.
And just a taste of anti-sieze in the plug threads - very little.
Spin the plug in by hand and finish with the torque wrench at a reduced setting.

You might be surprised what a difference this makes.

 

[philipp10]

Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
There may have been some debris on the plug threads which felt like the plug was seated.
I will probably get villified, but I always spray a little WD-40 down the tube to clean the threads.
And just a taste of anti-sieze in the plug threads - very little.
Spin the plug in by hand and finish with the torque wrench at a reduced setting.

You might be surprised what a difference this makes.

I won't vilify you....I think it's a great idea and yes, just lower the torque a bit. I personally don't use a torque wrench often having a calibrated right arm...lol. I don't know but it makes me believe the plugs will come out easier the next time.....of will the anti-seize just burn off?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Are these new wires? If not, get new wires. NGK wires are numbered and come in a pretty blue color

But as sloinker said, it shouldn't stop before actually getting to the bottom.

 

[vw7674]

some spark plug brands have a threaded cap at the top, above the insulator, they can come out with the plug wire & seat higher when installed over a
new plug.

 

[paulri]

I started a thread a while back and a lot of folks were saying that I don't necessarily need new wires if they are working. Mine certainly are, and they were put on about 57K ago, so I will keep going with them for a while yet. If I haven't changed them by the time I need to replace the iridiums that I put in today, I'll definitely change them then.


Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
Are these new wires? If not, get new wires. NGK wires are numbered and come in a pretty blue color

But as sloinker said, it shouldn't stop before actually getting to the bottom.

 

[philipp10]

Originally Posted by paulri
I started a thread a while back and a lot of folks were saying that I don't necessarily need new wires if they are working. Mine certainly are, and they were put on about 57K ago, so I will keep going with them for a while yet. If I haven't changed them by the time I need to replace the iridiums that I put in today, I'll definitely change them then.


Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
Are these new wires? If not, get new wires. NGK wires are numbered and come in a pretty blue color

But as sloinker said, it shouldn't stop before actually getting to the bottom.


I don't understand the obscession on changing the wires. If it's running well, what's the point? Until I detect a miss I would not change.

 

[sloinker]

Changing the wires is a maintenance issue much like changing the oil. You really don't want to wait until failure if it can be helped. Most cars nowadays don't even have wires.