Weird Electrical(?) Problem(s)

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I can tell you some truly bizarre stories about weird electrical symptoms that were cured with a battery swap.

You gotta replace it and go from there...
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas

Batteries are comparatively cheap, my sanity isn't! If you have bought it from a reputable source, just take it back and get another one.

- Vikas


I have an advance auto "economy" with a shorted cell that sometimes starts working. It does this away from the store! Their midtronics tester says it's fine/ needs charging, which is aggravating beyond belief.

Naturally your suggestion is sound if one is *paying* for one out of warranty and doesn't mind doing so.
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There's a lesson of course, if you do have a shorted cell it could be a piece of plate floating around in there causing grief even if it tested good yesterday.
 
That is why if I buy battery I buy it from Costco. First sign of ANY electrical trouble and I purchase a new battery and return the old one. Sometimes I get credit for turning in the old one depending upon the pro-rated warranty. Since I first replace the battery and then take the old one in, what ever credit I get becomes "extra" and never enters in the initial calculations.

I have absolutely no issue in terms of financial cost if the batteries were to last only a year i.e. $80 per year is peanuts compared to the rest of the maintenance cost.

In the past I have nursed a battery to 6 or 8 years but that was more like a challenge than as cost. I will not do that again.

- Vikas
 
By the way, Costco at my location does not check the battery. I suspect Walmart neither too. This way, you never get in to an urinating contest with the guy at the counter when you return your old battery.
 
my gut seems to be leading towards interstate, which seemingly every stealership, chain repair store, and my trusted indie garage, and trusted indie body shop all stock.

the one they list for my car,shows an MSRP of $99.95(+core), which is inline w/ the duralast, and what the sites for orielly, and aap showed for my car.

our house brand @ the meijer i work for, is tagged @$62.99(+core) and i've used 'em before (2 over 8.5yrs in my sonata) with no problems. no idea who makes 'em. (but only about 1/2 the warranty of the interstate(12vs24mo replacement, and i think 36mo, vs 75 mo warranty)

just remembered...this monday is a 15% off w/meijer Credit card day... that, coupled with my employee discount, puts the battery down to $51 after tax...hrm....me thinks new battery come monday..
 
Costco sells Johnson Controls batteries, the same makers of Interstate. If you don't have a Costco membership or a friend that can buy it/return your battery(or Sams), grab either an Autozone or Advance Auto Parts 'best' option and they have good prorated warranties as well.
 
costco doesn't even exist around here. (just checked their site, nearest is ~64mi away)
wish they were closer, have cousins who work for 'em out west, and seems like a fantastic company (for a retail job)

and lets just say i would rather not give my money to sams/walmart..
 
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HUH!! just looking @ the autozone duralast link i posted above, clicked on the MSDS for the battery, and lo and behold, it's from Johnson Controls! so since they link to a JC MSDS page, is it safe to assume JC makes the Duralast Battery? (the valuecraft option links to same MSDS)

also found this old thread about the meijer Pro-cell batteries(apparently made by east penn/deka)
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1885401
 
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Originally Posted By: earlyre
anyone have a favorite brand of battery? or more to the point, one to steer far, far clear of?


Advance Auto Parts batteries (Silver grade on up.) Buy on line with the best discount code available at the time and pick up at store. Can't beat them. Have a 6 year old Silver (mid grade battery)in my Taurus that still tests out well.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
By the way, Costco at my location does not check the battery. I suspect Walmart neither too. This way, you never get in to an urinating contest with the guy at the counter when you return your old battery.



Each time (2x) I had to exchange a defective Duralast Gold battery at Autozone the same drill....they want to charge it and test it. I already know its bad because I have an expensive OTC digital battery tester. The first time, they brought the battery back hot to the touch from charging and I just hooked my tester up (better then theirs, lol) in front of them and it read bad battery and they replaced it. Problem is that took 30 minutes of my time! The second time I tested it right away, not allowing then to waste my time so they can charge and return the battery.
 
working a swing shift this week..(the joys of being full time-"you have to be OPENLY available"- aka, since we are open 24/7, we can schedule you when ever we darn well please.)
anyhow, before i went in last night, spent better part of an hour cleaning stubborn corrosion off both battery posts and terminals (lots & lots & lots of coppery green on positive terminal) then applied a couple coats of the anti-corrosion "battery protector" spray. the "anti-corrosion" felt washers, put everything back together,sprayed another coat of the spray.

this morning it's raining. did my best to recreate prior conditions that caused car to [censored] out, didn't do it.
was all that corrosion really the problem?
 
Originally Posted By: meep
also check battery connections, may look clean and tight but could be dirty inside. take off, rough up, put back on. happens on even very clean cars. prevents battery from getting adequate charge, and causes starting problems. get battery tested since it's been in harsh conditions.


as i said, it can happen. good job for checking the simple things!!!
 
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so... new symptom time!

tonight, same carwash, no underspray this time, just the cheapo "spray off the bird doo" wash, when it started the wash cycle, i turned car off (not liking to waste gas idling) when the signal goes off to exit, hit the key, NOTHING absolutely NOTHING.
no power whatsoever.
As if the battery was disconnected.
so i turn the key forward enough to unlock the shifter, put her in neutral, and try to push it out of the bay.
can't get over the stop hump. and after a few roll back and try to get over, all of the sudden, the cabin lights turn on, the odometer displays, radio comes on,etc. (3 minutes maybe??)
i climb in, throw it back in park, hit the key, fires right up....

any thoughts????
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Are you sure you don't drive an old British, 6V, reverse ground vehicle?
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not unless some magician @ the Dodge Dealer in Grapevine,TX (where my brother originally bought the car), swapped out the electrics...

wait...reverse ground?? what...how...huh?
confused2.gif


"all those connections"?
Gimme a starting point. feeling clueless.
 
so this morning(well, early afternoon) i go to leave for work, bright sunshiny day, not a cloud in the sky, remote unlock the car, get in, turn the key, no response.none.
FUDGE!
pop the hood, somehow, the positive terminal had worked it's way loose. as i just pushed it back down, i hear the "hey dummy, you left your keys in the ignition w/ the door open" chime, pushed it all the way down, ran around and stared her up no prob. then booked it to work.
1st break, go out, get my small socket set out of the trunk, and made sure everything was down all the way, then cranked the ever-loving snot out of that nut. everything seems okeeday so far. we shall see...

should mention that a couple nights before current incident i had jump started one of the managers @ work (left his lights on), and he must have yanked the cable off my battery more forcefully than i thought....
 
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Well, you figured it out. As for the British, I believe a lot of their older cars had a positive ground, instead of a negative ground. That was reputed to (although I have no personal knowledge of this) have been worse for starting in the rain or in humid conditions, and simply was made worse if the vehicle had a six volt (instead of the modern twelve volt) electrical system.

It's good to periodically check the battery cables, to ensure they're not corroded to junk and still are properly connected and tight.
 
> then cranked the ever-loving snot out of that nut.

I don't think that is good idea; those clamps are quite soft and expand when you do that and eventually you end up having to shim them. I learnt it hard way.
 
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