Ways to remove fan clutch from water pump

Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,002
Location
Brittany
I have to refill the fan clutch on my W124. Fome some reason, the special tools aren't available anywhere. Basically a flat 36mm wrench and another one to hold the water pump. What would you suggest? A standard 36mm wrench is too thick to reach the nut. I've seen people doing this with a screwdriver and a hammer... Otherwise, building the tool from a steel sheet would be possible too. I'm all hears!
 
Yes this kind of set is available but too expensive for my needs. I have to do this job every 3 years maybe.
 
Do auto parts stores let you borrow tools in Brittany? I have seen sets similar to what Chris posted here in the US.

I have done this three times on a Chevy Silverado. The first time, I cobbled together a system with the wrong tools a parts store loaned me.
The second time, I was able to find the proper tool to hold the water pump pulley, a long-handled spanner with two pins that engage holes on the pulley. For the fan clutch nut, I used an adjustable wrench. The handle was too short for good leverage, so I smacked it with a rubber mallet.

I have seen recommendations to use a strap wrench to hold the pulley, but I couldn't imagine that working as well as the proper tool in my application.

The photo below shows how my pump and clutch go together.

MCK1007__ra_p.jpg
 
If you don't care about appearances and you've got air you can just place an air hammer chisel on the point of a hex and blip it. Lots of YT vids on this.

IT WORKS. Seriously. I've done it numerous times. The set Chris posted (and I also recommend) is essentially the luxury version of this approach
 
You should be able to find an open-end that will work at a bicycle shop,.
Good suggestion! Park does offer a 32/36mm plate wrench but it looks a bit short

There's also a crowfoot but I dunno if there'd be enough space to fit the crowfoot plus a square drive tool of choice, ie breaker bar or ratchet?
 
{snip}Otherwise, building the tool from a steel sheet would be possible too. I'm all hears!
I did this, too, but it doesn't hurt to have a vertical mill for accuracy and corner radii in the cut ,)
20220704_223427.jpg
 
A68E6ACC-A2A0-463F-8B90-1B8D5EBF791A.jpeg

F74A1725-EC59-4209-93FF-510473DD74BC.jpeg
7F7F44EB-E10F-408C-9FC6-B294CD1A6078.jpeg

Just did this on my 300D. Was surprised to see the star bolt instead of the Allen which tends to be much more problematic. I’m surprised your w124 is that much different.

I just held the belt tight in one hand and got it to release.

My Ram diesels have been more of a challenge. On those before I had a tool I used a strap around the pulley and belt to cinch it tight. Others with Ram diesels that have that type of clutch with six flats use an air hammer. I found that it can damage the nut slightly, but it works well when other things don’t.
 
Last edited:
Just did this on my 300D. Was surprised to see the star bolt instead of the Allen which tends to be much more problematic. I’m surprised your w124 is that much different.

I just held the belt tight in one hand and got it to release.

My Ram diesels have been more of a challenge. On those before I had a tool I used a strap around the pulley and belt to cinch it tight. Others with Ram diesels that have that type of clutch with six flats use an air hammer. I found that it can damage the nut slightly, but it works well when other things don’t.
On the W124, the bolt is used on the M10x and OM60x but the M111 is a little different and uses a nut.
 
Appropriate sized wrench and a hammer. Works fine. Strike both down and in the direction to loosen simultaneously
 
Back
Top