JTK
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Whoa! I guess I'm out of the loop on this. I just looked it up. USCraftmaster and AWH are the SAME company. Sorry! I had no idea.
Joel
Joel
Water heater
- Thread starter mjoekingz28
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Originally Posted By: Nick R
I dunno to me water+electric heating elements just equals trouble.
That's pretty much all we have down here. I guess a few progressives might have solar water heaters. As long as you change the anode rod, you're ok. Even then, changing out a heating element is simple enough. Drain the system, disconnect the power, and they typically take a really large socket (can't recall the exact size but it's over 1").
My last water heater lasted 25 years with only 1 element change.
I dunno to me water+electric heating elements just equals trouble.
That's pretty much all we have down here. I guess a few progressives might have solar water heaters. As long as you change the anode rod, you're ok. Even then, changing out a heating element is simple enough. Drain the system, disconnect the power, and they typically take a really large socket (can't recall the exact size but it's over 1").
My last water heater lasted 25 years with only 1 element change.
As an engineer in the power industry, I find the concept of electric resistance hot water abhorent...power stations at 35-40% sent out, versus even the worst efficiency Gas...
My parents have electric tanked glass coated steel, and it worked OK for a family of 5, about 15 years life (they never changed. I've had electric gravity with a cystern valve, and it sucked.
Here, in my place, it came with a Rheem flued gas tank. Loved it, as I could run the biggest bath, then by the time it needed a reheat, was ready to go again...I set the thermostat up around 70+ degrees C. Admittedly it was 2.5 star.
It died a few months ago (flue leak put the flame out and drowned the floor), prompting a replacement.
We replaced it with a 5+ star "instant" gas, bolted to the outsiade wall, freeing up enough room for a decent gun safe.
Instant is relative, as it takes a few litres of flow to get fired up. It's also limited to the new max of 55c (better half uses no cold these days).
First gas bill since getting it, and WOW what a difference.
My parents have electric tanked glass coated steel, and it worked OK for a family of 5, about 15 years life (they never changed. I've had electric gravity with a cystern valve, and it sucked.
Here, in my place, it came with a Rheem flued gas tank. Loved it, as I could run the biggest bath, then by the time it needed a reheat, was ready to go again...I set the thermostat up around 70+ degrees C. Admittedly it was 2.5 star.
It died a few months ago (flue leak put the flame out and drowned the floor), prompting a replacement.
We replaced it with a 5+ star "instant" gas, bolted to the outsiade wall, freeing up enough room for a decent gun safe.
Instant is relative, as it takes a few litres of flow to get fired up. It's also limited to the new max of 55c (better half uses no cold these days).
First gas bill since getting it, and WOW what a difference.
Depending on how long you've had it, check the condition of the anode rod. It helps extend the life of the tank. Once it's gone, your tank will start slowly disentegrating. Replacing the anode is cheaper than buying a new WH, unless you want to upgrade.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
As an engineer in the power industry, I find the concept of electric resistance hot water abhorent...power stations at 35-40% sent out, versus even the worst efficiency Gas...
OK, Your point is understood. However, cost is always a factor. Here, propane is $5/gal. An electric water heater just costs less.
What if, for example, the electrical power comes from a large nuke plant down the road, with plenty of excess power?
As an engineer in the power industry, I find the concept of electric resistance hot water abhorent...power stations at 35-40% sent out, versus even the worst efficiency Gas...
OK, Your point is understood. However, cost is always a factor. Here, propane is $5/gal. An electric water heater just costs less.
What if, for example, the electrical power comes from a large nuke plant down the road, with plenty of excess power?
We love our Rinnai tankless gas-fired unit!
http://www.boschhotwater.com/HelpfulReso...33/Default.aspx
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Bosch-Powerstream...=item2569f9dee1
if you have the electrical capacity, tank-less is the way to go
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Bosch-Powerstream...=item2569f9dee1
if you have the electrical capacity, tank-less is the way to go
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Originally Posted By: Virtuoso
We love our Rinnai tankless gas-fired unit!
Ditto!
We love our Rinnai tankless gas-fired unit!
Ditto!
For the cost of a propane or natural gas tank rental for the year, someone could buy an electric water heater and roughly break even. It makes little sense for me. Last time I was quoted $400 to have a gas tank for 1 year - that price did NOT include the gas.
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: Shannow
As an engineer in the power industry, I find the concept of electric resistance hot water abhorent...power stations at 35-40% sent out, versus even the worst efficiency Gas...
OK, Your point is understood. However, cost is always a factor. Here, propane is $5/gal. An electric water heater just costs less.
Oh, I completely understand if the only alternative is Propane.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
As an engineer in the power industry, I find the concept of electric resistance hot water abhorent...power stations at 35-40% sent out, versus even the worst efficiency Gas...
OK, Your point is understood. However, cost is always a factor. Here, propane is $5/gal. An electric water heater just costs less.
Oh, I completely understand if the only alternative is Propane.
I am not too familiar with the different options, but I work for an insurance company's underwriting dept, and we request that our insureds replace their water heaters every 10 years for loss control reasons. According to our loss control department, the risk of catastrophic water heater failure increases significantly after the ten year mark, hence the recommendation.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I am not too familiar with the different options, but I work for an insurance company's underwriting dept, and we request that our insureds replace their water heaters every 10 years for loss control reasons. According to our loss control department, the risk of catastrophic water heater failure increases significantly after the ten year mark, hence the recommendation.
What about indirect heaters, sometimes even integrated into a boiler? Easier said than done.
Is it only for fired, tank heaters? If its in an unfinished basement does the recommendation still stand?
I am not too familiar with the different options, but I work for an insurance company's underwriting dept, and we request that our insureds replace their water heaters every 10 years for loss control reasons. According to our loss control department, the risk of catastrophic water heater failure increases significantly after the ten year mark, hence the recommendation.
What about indirect heaters, sometimes even integrated into a boiler? Easier said than done.
Is it only for fired, tank heaters? If its in an unfinished basement does the recommendation still stand?
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I am not too familiar with the different options, but I work for an insurance company's underwriting dept, and we request that our insureds replace their water heaters every 10 years for loss control reasons. According to our loss control department, the risk of catastrophic water heater failure increases significantly after the ten year mark, hence the recommendation.
My work place had 1/2 of a floor totaled for this reason. Took 5 months to fix everything and relocating 30 peoples' office all over the building.
I am not too familiar with the different options, but I work for an insurance company's underwriting dept, and we request that our insureds replace their water heaters every 10 years for loss control reasons. According to our loss control department, the risk of catastrophic water heater failure increases significantly after the ten year mark, hence the recommendation.
My work place had 1/2 of a floor totaled for this reason. Took 5 months to fix everything and relocating 30 peoples' office all over the building.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I am not too familiar with the different options, but I work for an insurance company's underwriting dept, and we request that our insureds replace their water heaters every 10 years for loss control reasons. According to our loss control department, the risk of catastrophic water heater failure increases significantly after the ten year mark, hence the recommendation.
Naturally, you offer premium discounts to your insureds if they comply with your requests, don't you ?
I love insurers, telling us what to do, then when we ask for a reduction in premium to reflect their lowered risk, they get all "umm and ahhh, and you'll hear back"
I am not too familiar with the different options, but I work for an insurance company's underwriting dept, and we request that our insureds replace their water heaters every 10 years for loss control reasons. According to our loss control department, the risk of catastrophic water heater failure increases significantly after the ten year mark, hence the recommendation.
Naturally, you offer premium discounts to your insureds if they comply with your requests, don't you ?
I love insurers, telling us what to do, then when we ask for a reduction in premium to reflect their lowered risk, they get all "umm and ahhh, and you'll hear back"
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I am not too familiar with the different options, but I work for an insurance company's underwriting dept, and we request that our insureds replace their water heaters every 10 years for loss control reasons. According to our loss control department, the risk of catastrophic water heater failure increases significantly after the ten year mark, hence the recommendation.
Naturally, you offer premium discounts to your insureds if they comply with your requests, don't you ?
I love insurers, telling us what to do, then when we ask for a reduction in premium to reflect their lowered risk, they get all "umm and ahhh, and you'll hear back"
Unlikely, because an insured who does not comply with the recommendations will probably make the account a below-average risk. The theory is that if the company needs to make a recommendation, it often shows a sign of below-average maintenance because items recommended are ones that an insured should naturally be doing if they have a good proactive maintenance program. However, there are many other qualities of an account that can be used to justify a discount.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I am not too familiar with the different options, but I work for an insurance company's underwriting dept, and we request that our insureds replace their water heaters every 10 years for loss control reasons. According to our loss control department, the risk of catastrophic water heater failure increases significantly after the ten year mark, hence the recommendation.
Naturally, you offer premium discounts to your insureds if they comply with your requests, don't you ?
I love insurers, telling us what to do, then when we ask for a reduction in premium to reflect their lowered risk, they get all "umm and ahhh, and you'll hear back"
Unlikely, because an insured who does not comply with the recommendations will probably make the account a below-average risk. The theory is that if the company needs to make a recommendation, it often shows a sign of below-average maintenance because items recommended are ones that an insured should naturally be doing if they have a good proactive maintenance program. However, there are many other qualities of an account that can be used to justify a discount.
Originally Posted By: Cujet
I recently removed my 50 gallon Propane water heater.
I installed an 80 gallon AO Smith "Voltex" hybrid water heater. It uses a heat pump, in conjunction with electric elements. Interestingly enough, it does a great job air conditioning my garage. I'm not sure they make sense up North. But down South, they do "assist" the A/C if indoors and will cool a garage quite nicely. Propane was nearing $5 per gallon here. So, my costs were getting out of hand, with most months propane expenses exceeding $160! The Voltex has increased my electric bill by less than $30. So far, so good!!!
I just wanted to add that my electric bill is actually lower, this year, vs last. I'm not 100% sure why, but I suspect that removal of the garage airconditioner is part of the reason.
I recently removed my 50 gallon Propane water heater.
I installed an 80 gallon AO Smith "Voltex" hybrid water heater. It uses a heat pump, in conjunction with electric elements. Interestingly enough, it does a great job air conditioning my garage. I'm not sure they make sense up North. But down South, they do "assist" the A/C if indoors and will cool a garage quite nicely. Propane was nearing $5 per gallon here. So, my costs were getting out of hand, with most months propane expenses exceeding $160! The Voltex has increased my electric bill by less than $30. So far, so good!!!
I just wanted to add that my electric bill is actually lower, this year, vs last. I'm not 100% sure why, but I suspect that removal of the garage airconditioner is part of the reason.
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