Water Heater replacement?

[2002 Maxima SE]

By far, the cheapest option is to just replace it in the same location with a similar unit.
I don't think just replacing the anode is a good idea; with the potential of thread issues on such an old unit, you may have issues getting it to reseal with the new one.

Yes, Lowe's has the exact same one by AO Smith for around $450. I'd like to get something more efficient if it will fit in the crawlspace.

 

[GON]

It's surprising warm in the crawlspace. The gas furnace is there and being below ground it's about 60 degrees down there.

Any option for a electric vent gas water heater in a lowboy? I didn't realize you already had natural gas piped to the crawlspace.

 

[brandon9715]

Something worth looking into if you have an electric water heater is utility companies often have specific water heater rate plans where they put in a separate feed specifically for the water heater. The caveat is they are able to remotely disable power to your water heater (in my case up to 4 hours per day during peak loads) but the electricity cost per kWh is 1/3 what I pay otherwise. It makes my electric water heater cheaper than when I used natural gas, and I don’t notice them ever turning it off.

 

[97prizm]

I started researching yesterday to change out the anode rod in our water heater. We've lived in our home for almost 4 years and most of the major utility appliances have been updated by the previous owner in the last decade. I'd assumed the same as the water heater. I started by pulling the model and serial number. It's an AO Smith lowboy (about 34 inches tall) 50 gallon electric that sits on our crawlspace almost dead center of the house. When I tried to pull up data from AO Smith website...nothing was found. I sent in a support email to get more information on parts and they responded that the water heater was too old and parts were obsolete l, but did not mention the age. I did some more research on the serial with AI and found that the water heater was manufactured in August of 1997, its 28 years old!

We've never had issues with it and it still gets the water quite hot. However, being 28 years old I think we need to look at replacement in the next 6 months.

I'd wanted to go with natural gas (either tank or tankless), but it seems they don't make gas tank in a low boy and venting would be an issue. Am I limited on options with the water supply being under the house in the center? The only other option i could see is having a plumber route new lines from crawlspace to garage...but the garage offers no option ro vent (there's a room above it). For those that experienced similar...what are some options to get something more efficient?

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Check your municipal code. Since new gas heaters use a lighter to start the flame I'm not sure of ventilation requirements if you were to have a gas leak.

 

[Propflux01]

I'm confused on your wording. Isn't it just threaded in to the top of the tank?

I got the trick from a plumber, who said he uses an impact for them too.

That’s what I used on hot water heaters in both houses I lived in. Took it right out no issues. I replace them every 2-3 years now.

 

[Panda87]

It's surprising warm in the crawlspace. The gas furnace is there and being below ground it's about 60 degrees down there.

Im in North Alabama, so a similar climate as yours. You will be surprised at the chill you’ll have in your crawl space with the heat pump water heater running down there during winter!

However, during the summer? Makes the crawl space feel amazing. We have a dehu in ours as well, so the water heater balances out the heat from the dehu and keeps it pleasantly cool. Mine is a walkout crawl space from the garage and I go in there to cool off when working outside

 

[Panda87]

Something worth looking into if you have an electric water heater is utility companies often have specific water heater rate plans where they put in a separate feed specifically for the water heater. The caveat is they are able to remotely disable power to your water heater (in my case up to 4 hours per day during peak loads) but the electricity cost per kWh is 1/3 what I pay otherwise. It makes my electric water heater cheaper than when I used natural gas, and I don’t notice them ever turning it off.

I wish TVA offered that. I’d take them up on it in a heartbeat

 

[JMJNet]

Do yourself a favor.
When you get the new one, replace the existing Anode Rod with this Corro-protect anode rod.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H459TAK?th=1

Now, you need an electrical outlet but that usually is not a problem.

 

[Lubener]

Did you try an impact? My mid torque will bust them free every time.

At 28 years old, I wouldn't do anything to it.

 

[Panda87]

At 28 years old, I wouldn't do anything to it.

 

[JohnnyG]

Something worth looking into if you have an electric water heater is utility companies often have specific water heater rate plans where they put in a separate feed specifically for the water heater. The caveat is they are able to remotely disable power to your water heater (in my case up to 4 hours per day during peak loads) but the electricity cost per kWh is 1/3 what I pay otherwise. It makes my electric water heater cheaper than when I used natural gas, and I don’t notice them ever turning it off.

Yes. We have that here in Florida too. They can also control the resistance heat on the whole house heat pump, but, like you, I never noticed them turning it off.
At one point, when we were in-between homes, buying this one, I'd turn the H/W breaker off. Well, that also turned of their controller. That, they DID notice!
Anyway, I explained what I was doing and they understood. They then sent an electrician out and installed a shutoff switch for FREE, AFTER their controller, so that we weren't heating water while away.
I also put a timer on mine, also after their controller, so that I can control when the unit heats water. I usually have it set to only turn on in the heat of the day, and stay off at night.
The yellow EnergyStar sticker on the side of the tank says 1602 KWH/year, or $192/yr. But I don't know what electricity rate the govt. is using.
This is for a 66 gallon tank.

 

[AZjeff]

Do yourself a favor.
When you get the new one, replace the existing Anode Rod with this Corro-protect anode rod.

Those look interesting but the heater he has lasted 28 years with no attention so it might not be necessary. It would be interesting to see the rod out of the old one.

 

[rijndael]

At 28 years old, I wouldn't do anything to it.

My comment was for AZjeff, not the OP.

 

[CarLuver]

if you have easy access to gas in that crawl space i would out in a tankless. . venting these days is not much of an issue as they can vent sideways .

 

[2002 Maxima SE]

Any option for a electric vent gas water heater in a lowboy? I didn't realize you already had natural gas piped to the crawlspace.

None that I can find...all Lowboys are electric. I don't know if I could get a Short/Medium height water heater. I've got about 27" between the top of the lowboy and the ceiling. Most short/Medium height are about 50". The total height from floor to ceiling is 59" and I believe code is to have 6" clearance. Natural gas piping, venting and plumbing may make that cost prohibitive.

 

[oil pan 4]

I put a magnesium anode in mine. Magnesium is more reactive than aluminum so I have to check it every 2 to 3 years.

 

[2002 Maxima SE]

Something worth looking into if you have an electric water heater is utility companies often have specific water heater rate plans where they put in a separate feed specifically for the water heater. The caveat is they are able to remotely disable power to your water heater (in my case up to 4 hours per day during peak loads) but the electricity cost per kWh is 1/3 what I pay otherwise. It makes my electric water heater cheaper than when I used natural gas, and I don’t notice them ever turning it off.

I saw that option, I do not believe our electric company offers that option and I noticed it adds a good bit of cost. The same $450 AO Smith lowboy is $850 with that controller attached.

 

[brandon9715]

I saw thst option, I do not believe our electric company offers that option and I noticed it adds a good bit of cost. The same $450 AO Smith lowboy is $850 with that controller attached.

A controller to control it yourself? What I’m talking about is a whole separate panel. Doesn’t go from your regular electric meter.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

By far, the cheapest option is to just replace it in the same location with a similar unit.
I don't think just replacing the anode is a good idea; with the potential of thread issues on such an old unit, you may have issues getting it to reseal with the new one.

Just had a plumber at my house yesterday. He told me if you haven't replaced it in the first 3 years or so, don't touch it. The risk of breaking a perfectly working heater is bigger than the potential life extension from a new rod.

 

[hemitom]

Do absolutely nothing to that heater ! I wouldn't lay a hand on it for fear of creating a problem you don't have.
Save your money for a replacement ..