Water based wood stain questions

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Not sure we have a wood forum and maybe this should be in the gun forum, but thought I would get more useless replies here. grin2 I ventured into my first use of water soluble wood stain. I'm converting a Saiga 7.62x39 to an "AK-47" (legally). I have all the parts ready to go. Pretty fun project for stress relief. The gun is all torn down, plastic stocks removed. I bought bare Birch furniture (yeah I didn't spring for the Walnut, etc). The plan: Stain the wood dark reddish communist wine/blood red , with a faux aged and handled look, hand rubbed with Mil Ox oil (which acts like a typical setting seed oil rub) for gun stocks. Well I must say, I have achieved the look pretty well. Birch is not the best wood to stain. It does not take most stains evenly. And the end cuts really soak the stain in and go quite dark. But this helped the effect - I think purely by accident. I had to sand the wood, then raise the grain with water and sand again - three times. That part really paid off. No raised fibers at all. The water soluble stains are a nasty aniline powder first dissolved in 8 oz methanol, then 24 oz of warm pure water. I mixed my own using most Behlen brand red and other secret colors. Man the stain is a strong dye. Powerful. Brush it in rub it off. Repeat. Scary at first. Looks almost magenta. Anyway, after drying well then rubbing down and burnish polishing with cheese cloth it looked really cool. Last night I oiled it and rubbed the oil while watching James Bond do a Stephen King TV movie. Here's the problem: when I was hand rubbing the oil to get it to polymerize, the brighter red was getting on my hands! Yikes. Not like a bunch, just like some surface stain was rubbing off and mixing in the oil - this morning still some color rubs off on a paper towel. The oil will take some days to cure fully, so I'll give it time. I was going to treat it with more oil, maybe twice more. Then wax it. Anyone have some tips - will the dye continue to rub off???
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Not sure we have a wood forum and maybe this should be in the gun forum, but thought I would get more useless replies here. grin2
Useless reply #1. Perhaps, perhaps not.
 
Pablo, if you really want to seal it up, make sure that you use a polymerizing oil like tung oil and use several coats and at the end, apply a satin solvent-based ureathane finish over the stock to lock it all in. Make sure to use an exterior grade urethane. This will seal the stock, prevent moisture from getting into the wood and keep you from getting stain on your hands. if you don't seal this, on a hot humid day at the range, you are likely to see the stain on your hands. Anilines are not the healthiest things to get on your skin.
 
There is an order to finishing to prevent one finish from bleeding through another. Never used a water-based dye before, but Bob Flexner has and he's a finishing expert. Amazon has his books, also American Woodworker. I have used a light-cut of dewaxed clear shellac on woods that tend to blotch, which greatly helps. You can also use it between a dye/stain and the finish coat as it'll bond to both.
 
"I have used a light-cut of dewaxed clear shellac on woods that tend to blotch, which greatly helps. You can also use it between a dye/stain and the finish coat as it'll bond to both." Sometimes called a 'Spit coat' I personally might have rubbed on Varnish. Some nice stains can be made from Permanganate of Potash in water or Green Walnut husks.
 
Do it - thanks for the link. I think Tom nailed it. As the oil cures (Mil oX oil is pretty much like tung oil) it seems to be staying put now. I think the main problem is I went way heavy with the stain mix and heavy with the application, even tough I rubbed it off pretty well.
 
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