Washing Machine Repair

[The Critic]

So this girl I've been hanging out with convinced me to help her fix her washing machine. I have absolutely zero knowledge of repairing appliances. So, this is going to be a real challenge for me. The washer is an old (probably early 90s) Whirlpool unit with mechanical dials. It is a top loader with an old-school agitator. The symptoms are as follows. If the machine does not have the water lines connected, and you turn it on, the machine merely hums. It will not spin at all. Now I did get it to spin once or twice but that seems like it may have been a fluke. With the water lines connected, I was able to get the washer to fill, but not wash (i.e. turn the agitator). It does drain just fine. However, with the water lines connected, it also does a spin cycle just fine. Having the water lines connected should only make a difference in whether the machine has water entering it, right? I don't think the machine is driven by water pressure so it is strange that the washing machine sorta works when it is connected to a water supply. It almost seems as though its function is intermittent. Can anyone please provide me with some pointers on where to start? Thanks.

 

[Shannow]

Could be a clutch problem maybe. I learned coupler replacement here http://www.davesrepair.com/ and he's got some other good guts. Use the Google "site:" search with a keyword and usually get there. If you are going down there, replace the coupler while in there. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Direct-Drive-Coupler-Whirlpool-Sears-285753A-/130495771069 I keep one in the junk drawer for the phone call "that thing you do with the washing machine needs doing again".

 

[eagle23]

It could also be the timer itself, the mechanical dial used to set the wash load type. I've had those die through the years. That it spins at all suggests to me it isn't a clutch, and I assume the same clutch would be used to agitate as spin. But then my knowledge of the mechanical workings of a washing machine would fit in a tablespoon Try using different wash settings to rule the timer out. If you have already tried different wash settings and it still doesn't wash, then the clutch or something else may be bad. Timers are available at various appliance repair stores like Fox and others.

 

[demarpaint]

Check the belt and tensioner, it usually sits under the drum and is accessed from the front of the machine. While you have the front panel off keep your hands clear and turn on the machine, observe what's happening. I had the same problem it was a stretched out belt. If it's the belt make sure you get an appliance belt and not match one up at an auto parts store. If the belt and tensioner are good the next order of business is checking the switch. HTH

 

[Donald]

The washer will not start until the tub is filled to the level you have set. I assume it weighs the tub to determine this. Remember this machine probably has a single reversible motor. One way it pumps out and the other way it washes. It also uses brakes for the normal agitation.

 

[pbm]

I have a Whirlpool of that vintage and I replaced that coupler years ago and have had no problem since. There really isn't much to a WM ....the hardest part is accessing the motor, coupler etc...

 

[Chris142]

Look on the bottom to make sure that the belt is ok.If it is then see if it's sapinning the transmission input shaft.If it is then the trans is broke and that's usually fatal. Usually cheaper to buy another used waSher than it is to fix a broken trans.

 

[chestand]

The tub fill shutoff is based on a pressure switch closing. There is no belt, btw. Whirlpools and many other brands in the past 20 or so years have an all-in-one motor/transmission/pump assembly. The motor is reversible - one direction is agitate/spin and the other is pump out the tub. It's very easy to change the coupler that connects the motor to the transmission. Coupler breakage is a common failure on these. The couplers are designed to be a "sacrificial lamb" in case of tub overload. They'll break and not allow any further ($$) damage. The couplers run around $20. Tip the machine on its side to expose the bottom. You'll see the motor with trans and pump. The coupler is two white plastic pieces separated by a black piece of rubber. It's located between the motor and trans. I've done many of these and it's really an easy fix.

 

[4D-56]

wow!....it seems we are in similar situations!...im in the middle of fixing up both washer & dryer for a girl i hardly know! I found this forum a great place to learn: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/ use the different search options, sign up and post a question! also, spend some time googling the model # and add the words repair or service manual into your search and you might find a pdf downloadable manual...id did! 99% of the testing of each individual part can be done with a multi-meter using resistance. the place i found the be the cheapest was Sears (way cheaper than any "discount" places either on the web or in my locality: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?redirectType=BRAT_RULE good luck!

 

[Al]

Get a girfriend who can afford a new washer.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: Al

Get a girfriend who can afford a new washer.

Sorry, but based on my experience of having a 20+-year-old Whirpool (kept as a "garage rag washer" right next to its 3-year-old front-loading replacement... KEEP THE OLD WASHER! It's saved our butts several times due to the new one being down for some electronic glitch. The new one sure treats the clothes nice and makes them last longer, but in just a few years its had, no kidding, 5x the issues that the old washer ever had in 20+ years.

 

[ahoier]

Yea really, if the washer is that old, perhaps it's time for an upgrade in itself Then again, my energy-conversatiive-self tells me "Bad Adam!" - fix it, and life goes on, for another 20+ years :P After all the biggest problem I've found with "new" washers, most of them are "computerized" (i.e.: mother boards, circuit boards, etc....that can fail). My mother just had her "Maytag Bravos" fixed a year or so ago, the circuit board went bad, so she called the repair guy, obviously, out of warranty, so they charged her circuit board, labor + extended warranty.....came out to $400 or some garbage.....guess what? She paid $400 6 years ago, from "Scratch and Dent World" (part of Appliance Direct's wandering "scratch and dent" circus act LOL) though she got a "beaut" - I didn't notice any "scratches" of a dent on the washer anywhere..... Not to mention, it "requires" this new-fangled "HE" detergent....so no more using her favorite "Xtra".....

 

[Al]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum

Originally Posted By: Al

Get a girfriend who can afford a new washer.

Sorry, but based on my experience of having a 20+-year-old Whirpool (kept as a "garage rag washer" right next to its 3-year-old front-loading replacement... KEEP THE OLD WASHER! It's saved our butts several times due to the new one being down for some electronic glitch.

Front loaders are a waste. They really do a poor job of cleaning. And they are more prone to failure. We have a 20+ year old Maytag and its gonna be replaced with the simplest top loader available.

 

[Torino]

They are quite simple. Tear it apart and fix it. John--Las Vegas

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: chestand

There is no belt, btw.

Interesting. I'm not doubting you but I've never seen a beltless washer yet. My boss picks them up in the winter at garage sales and we refurbish them when things are slow. I have yet to see one w/o a belt. When mine broke last summer the transmission broke. I found a working on on Craigs for $50.....It's still working but the belt is pretty frayed.

 

[SteveSRT8]

I just junked a 3 year old beltless washer from GE, a Profile I think. The beltless design was a cool idea (direct drive)but the durability was NOT there. Got a cheap top loader set from Hotpoint that has a belt and a noisy trans like I'm used to.

 

[chestand]

These machines are known as "direct drive" washers. It's a modular arrangement with the motor (reversible, double output) in the middle and the pump on one side and the transmission on the other side. They work quite well until the coupler breaks.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Few years ago I bought a new front load direct drive 3.5 Cu Ft. LG washer WM2010CW for less than $250 after several rebates from local water companies. Looking for what rebates are available in your area and sale price from big box stores, it may cost you less than repair cost and a brand new machine. A 4.0 Cu Ft. front load washer can be purchased for less than $500, with local water district agencies rebate(s) can be as low as $300 or less.

 

[user52165]

Originally Posted By: Al

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum

Originally Posted By: Al

Get a girfriend who can afford a new washer.

Sorry, but based on my experience of having a 20+-year-old Whirpool (kept as a "garage rag washer" right next to its 3-year-old front-loading replacement... KEEP THE OLD WASHER! It's saved our butts several times due to the new one being down for some electronic glitch.

Front loaders are a waste. They really do a poor job of cleaning. And they are more prone to failure. We have a 20+ year old Maytag and its gonna be replaced with the simplest top loader available.

Our 34 year old Maytag top loader is still going strong (no belt). In all that time I have done a simple transmission repair and a new timer. Matching Maytag gas dryer has only had the igniter replaced and the belt which was still usable at 30 years. Service manuals are nice to have. I run some CLR with water once a year to keep it clean. BTW - have you cleaned the dryer lint build up in the exhaust hose? Prime source of house fires.

 

[Cutehumor]

Originally Posted By: Al

Get a girfriend who can afford a new washer.

+1. critic is being owned on this one. A girl who you are hanging out with is asking to fix her washing machine. tell her to buy a new one.