Warm up - Part 2
- Thread starter Accord2005NJ
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Just for you, Thermo:
Just don't leave it plugged in all the time, have a timer that turns the block heaters on at about 2 hours before you start them.
Anything more is a waste of power and at 1500watts, you will be wasting electricity if you go any longer.
Anything more is a waste of power and at 1500watts, you will be wasting electricity if you go any longer.
Thanks guys.
I generally let my truck warm up for about 1 min but im lucky because i dont have to deal with those cold temps. Whats weird about toyotas at least the tacomas is that when its cold the engine reves to almost 3K or 35mph before it shifts.
At the following link, scroll down to the question "How does a block heater work":
http://www.shell.ca/home/Framework?siteId=ca-en&FC2=/ca-en/html/iwgen/shell_for_motorists/carcare/motoring_tips/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/ca-en/html/iwgen/shell_for_motorists/carcare/motor ing_tips/misc_tips.html
http://www.shell.ca/home/Framework?siteId=ca-en&FC2=/ca-en/html/iwgen/shell_for_motorists/carcare/motoring_tips/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/ca-en/html/iwgen/shell_for_motorists/carcare/motor ing_tips/misc_tips.html
Hey Schmoe- Why the disrespect?
Anyway, one thing you're not considering is the combustion process, which is inefficient at cold temps. On modern EFI engines, that means open loop operation. On an old carbureted engine, a sooty rich mixture with a closed choke. On diesels, incomplete combustion ... and remember that diesels make very little heat idling so they warm up very slowly. What happens with all that extra fuel in each of the examples cited? It washes down the cylinder walls and gets into your oil.
I agree that firing up an engine and taling off like a bat-outta-**** is, well, ****, for an internal combustion engine but I restate: A gentle dynamic warmup, after a minute or so to stabilize oil pressure and flow, is probably the best choice next to a block heater.Anecdotally, I can say it's worked for me for the last 25 years in frigid wastelands of Vermont, Colorado and Ohio as cold as -45. No blown up engines, cracked heads or other problems.
Anyway, one thing you're not considering is the combustion process, which is inefficient at cold temps. On modern EFI engines, that means open loop operation. On an old carbureted engine, a sooty rich mixture with a closed choke. On diesels, incomplete combustion ... and remember that diesels make very little heat idling so they warm up very slowly. What happens with all that extra fuel in each of the examples cited? It washes down the cylinder walls and gets into your oil.
I agree that firing up an engine and taling off like a bat-outta-**** is, well, ****, for an internal combustion engine but I restate: A gentle dynamic warmup, after a minute or so to stabilize oil pressure and flow, is probably the best choice next to a block heater.Anecdotally, I can say it's worked for me for the last 25 years in frigid wastelands of Vermont, Colorado and Ohio as cold as -45. No blown up engines, cracked heads or other problems.
ahhhhhhhhhhhh, it was a "we agree to disagree" kind of thing, no dissin' from me bro! Anyway, yeah, I know that you colder states will have a different take on engine warm up because you've been doing it for some years, as opposed to us down here where it's a little warmer. It's just a personal thing I guess. I agree, that cranking and jetting out is really bad on a engine, but your right, if there was a problem as you stated, then there would be a LOT of blown engines, which there simply is not. I think an engine could definently benefit from a slow, non-forced gentle warm up and every thing thing is in sync with the universe.
2005NJ,
Aren't you using 15W40 weight oil?
Aren't you using 15W40 weight oil?
1. I'd say a block heater could help in low low temps (to help the oil be thinner on startup?). I was in Fort Saskatchewan last year for work and all the vehicles had them to deal with the -40 deg. temps.
2. I've heard some AT's don't circulate fluid through the cooler in park but do in neutral. If true and your AT is that type and the engine is at operating temp and you start getting some heat in the radiator and you have an in-radiator tank style ATF cooler, the AT on those styles could warm up faster in neutral because the ATF could get warmed by the circulating engine coolant.
2. I've heard some AT's don't circulate fluid through the cooler in park but do in neutral. If true and your AT is that type and the engine is at operating temp and you start getting some heat in the radiator and you have an in-radiator tank style ATF cooler, the AT on those styles could warm up faster in neutral because the ATF could get warmed by the circulating engine coolant.
GC just squeaks by to be called a 30 weight...it's darn close to a 40 weight!
I think most "struggling" during startup is mostly the fact that the battery
can only put out 25%? of the amperage it would at 90degrees. As for warming
up. I start the truck let it run 1-2min then drive trying to keep the rpms
under 2k. It warms up more in 2-3 min of easy driving than 10min of idling.
can only put out 25%? of the amperage it would at 90degrees. As for warming
up. I start the truck let it run 1-2min then drive trying to keep the rpms
under 2k. It warms up more in 2-3 min of easy driving than 10min of idling.
No problems, G-Man II. All humans are fallible...and last time I checked, I was human too.
Plug the specs into here:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/3655/VI.html
...see if I made an error.
I'm quite confident the temp range for full synthetics is applicable.
Plug the specs into here:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/3655/VI.html
...see if I made an error.
I'm quite confident the temp range for full synthetics is applicable.
Well Schmoe, I disagree (and I don't even have to do it "disrespectfully").
It's better to drive than to let the car sit and idle to warm-up. Driving should consist of short shifting (if a manual) or driving sedately to keep rpms down for a while until the oil comes up to operating temps.
Why is it better to drive than to idle? There are lots of reasons but, with respect to wear, driving allows for higher oil pressure (compared to idle where the oil pressure is much lower) and it takes a lot longer to bring the oil up to temperature at idle than it does driving mildly. Low oil pressure and in particular combined with thick/cold oil (start-up idling) results in greater wear on the engine so you are better off trying to shorten the warm-up period and the best way to do this is driving mildly. Driving allows for raising the rpms resulting in greater oil pressure and allows the oil to warm-up more quickly.
So, letting a car just sit and idle will result in greater engine wear. This makes no difference whether you are talking Georgia or Minnesota. A few seconds is typically all that is necessary before driving unless you need to defrost a window for safety. Even then, you don't want to idle any longer than you have to.
Regards,
Rich
It's better to drive than to let the car sit and idle to warm-up. Driving should consist of short shifting (if a manual) or driving sedately to keep rpms down for a while until the oil comes up to operating temps.
Why is it better to drive than to idle? There are lots of reasons but, with respect to wear, driving allows for higher oil pressure (compared to idle where the oil pressure is much lower) and it takes a lot longer to bring the oil up to temperature at idle than it does driving mildly. Low oil pressure and in particular combined with thick/cold oil (start-up idling) results in greater wear on the engine so you are better off trying to shorten the warm-up period and the best way to do this is driving mildly. Driving allows for raising the rpms resulting in greater oil pressure and allows the oil to warm-up more quickly.
So, letting a car just sit and idle will result in greater engine wear. This makes no difference whether you are talking Georgia or Minnesota. A few seconds is typically all that is necessary before driving unless you need to defrost a window for safety. Even then, you don't want to idle any longer than you have to.
Regards,
Rich
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