Walmart Synthetic

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I recently bought a jug of Walmart Synthetic. On the package is states that it is made from a 100% synthetic base. Can I assume that this is a "true" synthetic or is just more smoke and mirrors?
TIA
Bill.
 
Do a search on this forum. I did the same because I'm using it now as a "trial" in my wifes Toyota. My search showed it is a "synthetic" just like Castrol Syntec. Not what most would think as a "true" synthetic such as Mobil, Amsoil, etc. Some even indicated it might have a weak additive pack.

I'm trying it anyway. Mobil 1 is close to $30.00 for the "jug". The SuperTech was just over 12 bucks.
 
I would say it's made from a 100% synthetic base the same way that a Big Mac is made from 100% pure beef.
 
quote:

Originally posted by sdmahr:
Do a search on this forum. I did the same because I'm using it now as a "trial" in my wifes Toyota. My search showed it is a "synthetic" just like Castrol Syntec. Not what most would think as a "true" synthetic such as Mobil, Amsoil, etc. Some even indicated it might have a weak additive pack.

I'm trying it anyway. Mobil 1 is close to $30.00 for the "jug". The SuperTech was just over 12 bucks.


With the OCI's intervals the most of you guys are following, your engine wouldn't notice the difference.
Then why do you care?
 
[/qb][/QUOTE]With the OCI's intervals the most of you guys are following, your engine wouldn't notice the difference.
Then why do you care? [/QB][/QUOTE]

What is it with everyone bashing syn oil as if the engine wouldn't notice. How can you make that assumtion if you don't even know what the original poster is driving?

For the Toyota with a VVTi engine, I think it's a good choice. You still gotta follow the owners manual to stay in warranty tho, so don't try and max out your OCI untill you are out of warranty.
 
I just ran a UOA on ST synth 10W-30 in a 99 Camry with the 2.2L engine. This is the 5S-FE engine that has been reported to have an increased incidence of sludged engines. This car in particular burns some oil (approx. 1 qt/4500 mi); I always keep the sump near or slightly above full since it has such a small sump capacity.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003566

The results were so good that some were thinking I had fabricated the numbers.
I wouldn't recommend this oil for an extended drain interval. I mistakenly thought that WalMart had raised prices on this oil, but it still is $12.24 for the 5 quart jug. Availability is sometimes a problem, so I stocked up on this oil.
 
If you decide to try this oil, I hope your results are as good as mine were in this application. I don't believe this oil is truly an A3 oil like it says in the text on the back label because of the shear I saw in my application.

I like the 5 quart jug since I use 3.9 qts for the oil change and I have a quart left over for make-up oil.
 
Point being most people see no benefit from synth unless they go for extended drains. In the UOAs dinos seem to do just as fine as synths on short OCIs. Of course sludger motors are a different matter but even with them high quality dinos seem to do okay for short OCIs.

Of course there are exceptions. There always are to any rule. But for most.....

To answer Bill's question, it's just as synthetic as most flavors of Castrol Syntec, Q Advanced Synth, Rotella T Synth, etc.

What are you wanting to run it in?
 
I would think it would be okay in the sebring but not for an ungodly amount of miles. You may wanna run auto rx, Lube Control or something like that to help "clean things out."

But the best course would be to run the oil a decent interval and get it analyzed. Then you'll find out how much reserve it had for your application. You may also check the UOA section and see if anyone has reported on than combo.
 
Whatever the base oil content, which I'll assume is Group III of some kind, this was not a long OCI oil last time I checked. The TBN is very much what you'd expect with a normal, non-HDEO, non-synthetic oil.. somewhere in the vicinity of 7, IIRC.
 
If you want an affordable quality GIII base stock "synthetic" then Rotella-T Synthetic is $14 a gallon at Walmart. It has a decent additive package. I have no idea about Walmart's synthetic.
 
I trust nothing with the walmart branding. It may be good now, but they'll demand it be delivered cheaper and cheaper until it's absolute garbage.
 
Until they do, I think I'll stock up. As long as they have synth branding, you know it meets a minimum standard of being group III (I hope).
 
I'm using it in my wifes 3.3L Toyota Sienna. The vehicle gets aggressive driving in 100 degree temps here in Deep South Texas. I do not plan on having it analyzed....but X72's report was fantastic. I change at 5K intervals with a mixture of SuperTech or Purolator filters. So far so good !
 
I put some in my "mule" Ford Aspire which is a daily in-town driver. Also, I have a Chry. Sebring 2.7 Conv. These engines are prone to high amounts of sludge and synthetics are used to address this problem. I've used GTX in all of my cars for decades but have been interested in synth. oil - especially its cold-start/short trip lubrication properties.
Bill.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BrianWC:
RTS is going up to $15 and change at most wallyworlds. Supertech is A3 rated though IIRC.

FWIW, it's only the 10W30 that's A3, not the 5W30. And I noticed on the quart bottles there's no mention of the A3 rating....
 
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