I was wondering what everyones opinion on Valvoline VR1 was here. I have a full roller built up 351 with a Holley 750 on it. The oil gets changed once a year at about 2000 miles per year, however some of those miles can be hard. She sees alot of burnouts and once in a while a shot of Nitrous at the track maybe twice a year. The engine builder said to use 10W30 so I was thinking about switching to VR1 Synthetic 10W30. I've already decided to run the Ford Racing oil filter thanks to some helpful feedback in the oil filter section here. It currently has Pennzoil Platinum 10W30. I was debating the VR1, Rotella 5W40 or the Mobil 15W50. When I got the car it had no PCV system only breathers. I have since put a PCV system back on it to help save the oil a little bit. There was also a bit of fine metal sludge on the magnetic drain plug thats in there so I want to make sure the oil that goes in this thing will protect it.
VR1 oil??
- Thread starter Realfine69
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What does the engine builder know about picking the right viscosity? After all, Ford specs a 5W50 in some wicked Mustangs.
I would use a full saps 0W40 or 5W40 in it. Castrol 0W40 from Walmart. It's a German made synthetic with a percentage of real PAO in it. Plus the titanium is
a good anti-wear additive that protects on a cold engine before the zinc does its job. Zinc doesn't provide as much protection when the oil is cold vs when it's
warmed up.
I would use a full saps 0W40 or 5W40 in it. Castrol 0W40 from Walmart. It's a German made synthetic with a percentage of real PAO in it. Plus the titanium is
a good anti-wear additive that protects on a cold engine before the zinc does its job. Zinc doesn't provide as much protection when the oil is cold vs when it's
warmed up.
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Valvoline VR1 is a good oil ðŸ‘...Ž
If it was mine, I'd personally run:
Amsoil Dominator 10w30
Or
Schaeffers 10w30
Just me!
If it was mine, I'd personally run:
Amsoil Dominator 10w30
Or
Schaeffers 10w30
Just me!
Roller cam means high ZDDP really isn't necessary. I had a stash of VR1 full syn 10W30 when AZ had a free after rebate deal on it, it was OK, but I think any good 10W30 would get the job done-M1 HM 10W30 is pretty highly regarded here.
I use and like VR-1. If you want more Vis than 10W-30 mix in a quart or two of 20W-50 VR-1. That is what I do for my BMW Bike.
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Good oil if you have a performance / track car with no cats.
I'm a fan especially the 20w50 variety. I have an assortment of older non-roller (mostly big block) engines that seem very happy with it. In fairness they have all seen some Brad Penn and pre CK spec 15w40's too.
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I guess my quest to keep Castrol 0W40 on the shelves at Walmart for my wife's Audi isn't gaining much traction.
Originally Posted by ammolab
I use and like VR-1. If you want more Vis than 10W-30 mix in a quart or two of 20W-50 VR-1. That is what I do for my BMW Bike.
This is what I do in the 355 in my 78 C10. Of course I have flat tappet stuff.
I use and like VR-1. If you want more Vis than 10W-30 mix in a quart or two of 20W-50 VR-1. That is what I do for my BMW Bike.
This is what I do in the 355 in my 78 C10. Of course I have flat tappet stuff.
It's good oil. Autozone, ORileys etc usually just carries the conventional version (silver bottle). I've got a stroked 351 Windsor making 650hp that I just changed from M1 to Synthetic VR1 10w30. I'll do an analysis next change. i got the black bottle synthetic from Amazon .
Originally Posted by nautoncall
It's good oil. Autozone, ORileys etc usually just carries the conventional version (silver bottle). I've got a stroked 351 Windsor making 650hp that I just changed from M1 to Synthetic VR1 10w30. I'll do an analysis next change. i got the black bottle synthetic from Amazon .
+1 Agree with this, or one of the Amsoil 10w30's.
It's good oil. Autozone, ORileys etc usually just carries the conventional version (silver bottle). I've got a stroked 351 Windsor making 650hp that I just changed from M1 to Synthetic VR1 10w30. I'll do an analysis next change. i got the black bottle synthetic from Amazon .
+1 Agree with this, or one of the Amsoil 10w30's.
Originally Posted by Realfine69
I was wondering what everyones opinion on Valvoline VR1 was here. I have a full roller built up 351 with a Holley 750 on it. The oil gets changed once a year at about 2000 miles per year, however some of those miles can be hard. She sees alot of burnouts and once in a while a shot of Nitrous at the track maybe twice a year. The engine builder said to use 10W30 so I was thinking about switching to VR1 Synthetic 10W30. I've already decided to run the Ford Racing oil filter thanks to some helpful feedback in the oil filter section here. It currently has Pennzoil Platinum 10W30. I was debating the VR1, Rotella 5W40 or the Mobil 15W50. When I got the car it had no PCV system only breathers. I have since put a PCV system back on it to help save the oil a little bit. There was also a bit of fine metal sludge on the magnetic drain plug thats in there so I want to make sure the oil that goes in this thing will protect it.
By "full roller" do you mean hydraulic roller or solid roller? If hydraulic roller, VR1 10w-30 will be fine. However, VR1 lacks sufficient EP additives to cushion the blow in a solid roller valvetrain when lash gets taken up. Rotella would be even worse in this regard. Something like Driven GP-1 10w-30 would be much more ideal in that case.
I was wondering what everyones opinion on Valvoline VR1 was here. I have a full roller built up 351 with a Holley 750 on it. The oil gets changed once a year at about 2000 miles per year, however some of those miles can be hard. She sees alot of burnouts and once in a while a shot of Nitrous at the track maybe twice a year. The engine builder said to use 10W30 so I was thinking about switching to VR1 Synthetic 10W30. I've already decided to run the Ford Racing oil filter thanks to some helpful feedback in the oil filter section here. It currently has Pennzoil Platinum 10W30. I was debating the VR1, Rotella 5W40 or the Mobil 15W50. When I got the car it had no PCV system only breathers. I have since put a PCV system back on it to help save the oil a little bit. There was also a bit of fine metal sludge on the magnetic drain plug thats in there so I want to make sure the oil that goes in this thing will protect it.
By "full roller" do you mean hydraulic roller or solid roller? If hydraulic roller, VR1 10w-30 will be fine. However, VR1 lacks sufficient EP additives to cushion the blow in a solid roller valvetrain when lash gets taken up. Rotella would be even worse in this regard. Something like Driven GP-1 10w-30 would be much more ideal in that case.
VR1 is an excellent oil but high ZDDP is not necessary if you have roller lifters, although it doesn't hurt either for sure.
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When I say full roller I mean roller cam and roller rockers. So it looks like I'll go with the synthetic VR1 or the high mileage 10W30 Mobil 1. I do see Schaffer oil on Amazon so maybe that's also a possibility. There's no cats on the car so I'm not worried about that. I'm just worried about keeping the engine happy at 7200 rpm.
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