Volvo Penta I/O Starter problem

I ordered a new VP starter from a VP dealer. Came in a box with a VP label with the correct part number. But the actual starter does not have any kind of label I can find. I guess one has to trust a VP dealer.

So my question is when I pull the old starter how can I determine if it's a VP starter worth rebuilding or a cheap Chinese one worthy of the scrap pile.
 
Went to the boat today with new starter. The bolts on the old starter would not budge. The paint around there is falling off. I am thinking both bolts need some PB Blaster on the head.

Breaker bar. Unsure if my cordless impact will fit.

I can only bring so many tools in my truck to the boat. Cannot bring my rolling tool cabinet.
 
I really would not want to snap one of the two bolts. To the point of considering buying a compact cordless impact wrench. Snapping one of the bolts would be a major PIA.

Not sure of the consensus but I think I would be less likely to snap a bolt with an impact than a breaker bar.
 
So the Milwaukee M18 mid-torque impact wrench arrived. By a crude measurement at the boat the new impact should fit between starter bolt and stringers.
What tool loving guy wouldn't take this as an excuse to buy a new tool. The only question is why didn't I order both a mid-torque impact and a compact impact?

BTW - recent YT videos of Dave's Auto assembling engines and he (his shop) is using a cordless impact not a pneumatic.
 
Donald said:
Went to the boat today with new starter. The bolts on the old starter would not budge. The paint around there is falling off. I am thinking both bolts need some PB Blaster on the head.

Breaker bar. Unsure if my cordless impact will fit.

I can only bring so many tools in my truck to the boat. Cannot bring my rolling tool cabinet.
Click to expand...
I had a similar situation involving the spark plugs on our 08 Chaparral. This was two (ish)years ago. I don’t even know if they were ever changed. The boat had 60 ish hours on it. (Cap and rotor looked original too)

I was afraid to force them for fear of stripping the head. It’s was mostly a fresh water boat so not much rust but wow they were tight.
Due to the location of the plugs I soaked them with motor oil and used the boat for the entire season, since with spark plugs there is that cup shape at the threads the oil stayed there the entire season. At some point at the end of the season or following spring I tried again and just right amount of force (and a prayer) they came out.

I know you don’t have this much time and I know it’s a different location but maybe short term keep soaking them with oil.
 
I sprayed with PB Blaster as best I could. Waited 10 minutes. Got the new Milwaukee M18 mid torque impact, let the impact go for maybe 10 seconds on each bolt and got both bolts out.

I have attached a picture of the starter. The gear does not look like nice clean metal. It's rust colored. Visible corrosion and flaking paint.

I don't know if it is a VP OEM starter. Or aftermarket. No manufacturer label.

Screenshot_20240531-194113.jpg
 
So something is slightly odd with the new starter. And the old starter. It came with no nuts or washers to hold the battery cable ring connectors to the studs. So I looked at the old starter and for the main battery cable it did not have a nut and washer but rather a threaded spacer (#6 in original post) and a short bolt to hold the main battery cable ring connector to the spacer. The stud in the new starter is copper colored so copper plated? I would think the only reason you make the stud copper plated is if you want the nut to handle some current. Current flowing from the stud threads to a nut to the top of the battery cable ring connector.

But the spacer is kind of rusty on the outside and the threaded inside has a yellowish tinge. A magnet grabs the spacer and bolt.

The net is 100% of the starting current is going through the spacer and it does not appear to be made of a metal that conducts electricity well like copper or silver. It's plated steel I assume.

And this seems to be the way the engine came from the factory.

Why not spec a starter/solenoid that allows the battery cable ring connector to fit directly on the stud. No
 
Does your boat have the 'lawyer fuse' on the starter feed terminal in the circuit between the feed from the battery and the boat's main bus?? I refer to it as the 'lawyer fuse' in jest as I always replace them after 10 years or so and added one to our antique....I hate having to put smoke back into the wires:)
 
So I got a VP OEM part #5 online assuming the one one my old starter was from a hardware store after the boats prior owner snapped something. It snaps tightly to a magnet so it's steel. I was thinking it would be copper.

So if the main battery cable and the other accessory cables all are attached with a bolt to the spacer that means 100% of the starting current is going through the steel spacer. Does not seem proper.
 
I have used Sierra parts (VP starter, as well as VP high pressure fuel pump) and had excellent luck with them.
I have also used them on Mercruiser with similar luck. Sometimes they are even improved parts from OEM.
 
DriveHard said:
I have used Sierra parts (VP starter, as well as VP high pressure fuel pump) and had excellent luck with them.
I have also used them on Mercruiser with similar luck. Sometimes they are even improved parts from OEM.
Click to expand...
I agree Sierra are quality marine parts. But the extra $$ from a Sierra starter to a VP OEM was like $50 or $75.

Now if Sierra would make catalytic manifolds and exhaust elbows that is something I would be interested in.
 
Donald said:
I agree Sierra are quality marine parts. But the extra $$ from a Sierra starter to a VP OEM was like $50 or $75.

Now if Sierra would make catalytic manifolds and exhaust elbows that is something I would be interested in.
Click to expand...

I have used GLM in the past, found them less expensive, and better quality than OEM. I admit I have not had to buy a set in 10 years...

 
DriveHard said:
I have used GLM in the past, found them less expensive, and better quality than OEM. I admit I have not had to buy a set in 10 years...

Click to expand...
As far as I know only OEMs are selling catalytic manifolds and risers. For $$$$$$.

I think it was something like $2000 for a set of manifolds and risers. I have full closed cooling so only need to worry about the riser.

Unsure about the catalytic converter that fits between the manifold and riser.
 
Donald said:
As far as I know only OEMs are selling catalytic manifolds and risers. For $$$$$$.

I think it was something like $2000 for a set of manifolds and risers. I have full closed cooling so only need to worry about the riser.

Unsure about the catalytic converter that fits between the manifold and riser.
Click to expand...

I have closed cooling on my current vessel as well, and I'm only in fresh water, so "knock on wood" I have not had to buy a set in a while. Last ones I bought were for a boat about 15 years old, and they rusted out the bottom and started to leak. It wasn't bad, so I lived with it for a year before going with GLM. I have not had the dis-pleasure of buying cat stuffed manifolds thank goodness. I have to admit I would be tempted to find a "workaround" if I did.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Donald
Starter in 2012 Volvo Penta 6.7L engine
Replies
7
Views
1K
MSCH
T
No RPMs past 80% max - Volvo Penta
Replies
8
Views
1K
tranmkp
1
GM starter upgrade: direct drive -> gear reduction
Replies
5
Views
1K
dfarr67
G
Integrated Magnetic Switch On Heavy Truck Starters
Replies
2
Views
984
George7941
JHZR2
Diesel Flywheel Issue - Do I Need to Replace?
2 3
Replies
41
Views
3K
Trav
Back
Top