Volant filtration upgrades

Shamefully, I will admit to buying a Turbo City intake for my 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.9L. That Grand Cherokee was the grand daddy to the SRT Jeeps. Anyway, the Turbo City intake did NOTHING for performance as the filters were open to the engine bay and sat directly above the valve covers. However, it did appeal to the five year old in me as it did make that 5.9L howl like a NASCAR.

View attachment 111261
I had a massive cone on my Mustang for a while, once I started learning about filtration and stuff, I sourced a stock 89-93 airbox and intake plumbing, left the silencer off and used a paper filter. If the market didn't exist... ;)
 
Shamefully, I will admit to buying a Turbo City intake for my 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.9L. That Grand Cherokee was the grand daddy to the SRT Jeeps. Anyway, the Turbo City intake did NOTHING for performance as the filters were open to the engine bay and sat directly above the valve covers. However, it did appeal to the five year old in me as it did make that 5.9L howl like a NASCAR.

View attachment 111261
Ragging Bull ... with blue horns. 😄
 
You could try trimming off a little bit of each end to get it to sit a little bit lower. It's strange because I don't remember that connector having that much strain on it. Is it possible part of that harness is tucked away under the engine cover?

If Volant is no help, you could try searching around for turbo piping suppliers. Some of them sell custom silicone elbows, couplers and reducers. Might even find something that is a regular stock item that would work.
Got this today:

EBE6A9BC-9C91-48C2-B96E-FF97DBB19F3A_1_105_c.jpeg
 
If it was my machine, I'd cut off the long threads on the clamps to make them look cleaner. Kind of a hassle to do, but it would look cleaner.
Problem would be loosening them later if I did that. I really had to back the top one off to clock it with the bottom one, so not sure how much I could safely trim before that becomes an issue for future removal/reinstallation.
 
Those clamps look like they would hold 100 PSI of boost easy.
Amusingly, that's what they are for, this fitting + clamps were sold for turbo plumbing, lol.

You can see the shorter unit eliminated the strain on the ACT wiring. I'm going to send these pics to the guy I was dealing with at Volant so he can see the difference.
 
Problem would be loosening them later if I did that. I really had to back the top one off to clock it with the bottom one, so not sure how much I could safely trim before that becomes an issue for future removal/reinstallation.
Could determine how loose they would have to be if ever removed and reinstalled, then determine how much excess stud could be trimmed. It might turn out that not much could be removed anyway - ?.

I think that style of band clamp looks better over-all then a typical worm gear hose clamp does.
 
Could determine how loose they would have to be if ever removed and reinstalled, then determine how much excess stud could be trimmed. It might turn out that not much could be removed anyway - ?.

I think that style of band clamp looks better over-all then a typical worm gear hose clamp does.

Looks more automotive than plumbing aisle at Home Depot.
 
Could determine how loose they would have to be if ever removed and reinstalled, then determine how much excess stud could be trimmed. It might turn out that not much could be removed anyway - ?.

I think that style of band clamp looks better over-all then a typical worm gear hose clamp does.
Agreed.

I could probably cut about 1/2" off them I suspect?
 
Make sure you thread the die on before lopping off the end.
Or just use a small triangular hand file to clean-up threads at the cut. Everone needs a needle file set. I use them all the time for various things.

 
Back
Top