VOA, Super TECH Advanced Full Synthetic, 5W-20

wemay

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Kind of a low TBN for their “advanced“ oil, no? Isn’t that the 15,000 mile oil by them?
 
I've been waiting for this.
See no reason to run this over the regular syn. As pointed out low TBN, notcsure what the regular syn numbers are
 
I've been waiting for this.
See no reason to run this over the regular syn. As pointed out low TBN, notcsure what the regular syn numbers are
Supertech Regular syn 0w20 is 7.1 according to what someone else posted just a little while ago! Wild that this has a lower TBN than something rated for 10k by the manufacturer. EDIT: sorry, im an idiot. The other sample was also of the advanced 20k ST. Sorry!
 
Yeah, the TBN is disappointing. Here's my VOA of the Supertech High Mileage Full Synth 5w-20 (rated for 10,000 miles):
ST FS HM 5W20 SP.jpg

It looks nearly identical. In fact, all the additives are slightly higher are on the HM than the Advanced 20k oil.
 
What TBN value is necessary ? Who's to say that the decrease/drop in TBN in linear over miles ? Maybe it maintains TBN in the ~7 range for many miles at the start before it starts dropping.


True indeed Hall ^^^^^^^^^^^

If this was a Dexos approval oil then it should be 8.0 or higher TBN.

Super S Dexos 5w30 approval full synthetic tested by PQIA had a TBN of 8.0. It had 1400 ppm of calcium 591 of mag and around 80 ppm of molybdenum and 237 of boron.

A very similar additive package as this oil by Warren Distribution.
 
What TBN value is necessary ? Who's to say that the decrease/drop in TBN in linear over miles ? Maybe it maintains TBN in the ~7 range for many miles at the start before it starts dropping.
For a 20,000 mile oil? I don’t know, but I imagine most 15,000 extended performance oils start out with something higher than 6.9, no?

But you might be right, it may remain linear through the interval.
 
ST oils have a slightly worse NOACK compared to others like PP. If it weren't for that I'd run it in my GDI engine without hesitation. Just my choice.
 
For a 20,000 mile oil? I don’t know, but I imagine most 15,000 extended performance oils start out with something higher than 6.9, no?

But you might be right, it may remain linear through the interval.


The used oil analysis section seems to bear out what Hall has posted. That the TBN does maintain quite well. I think that magnesium increases help maintain TBN higher for much longer vs calcium alone.

Strange but in our human body that magnesium is low then typically potassium is low too. And if someone needs both.... Magnesium given first will really help potassium bind better when given second. Potassium given first or alone will not bind as well.
 
So I assume it is mostly safe to say this oil does not have any grp IV stock in it, or at least to a meaningful degree? What would prevent this oil from shearing down too much in 20K miles? It will be interesting to see how the UOA turns out for this oil at 10K+. I have an engine that comes with oil-shearing Ginsu knives in it, for the sole purpose of destroying oil... so, thinking of going with the 15-20K oils for hopefully slightly better oil longevity.
 

add pack is very similar to their standard syn.

So I assume it is mostly safe to say this oil does not have any grp IV stock in it, or at least to a meaningful degree? What would prevent this oil from shearing down too much in 20K miles? It will be interesting to see how the UOA turns out for this oil at 10K+. I have an engine that comes with oil-shearing Ginsu knives in it, for the sole purpose of destroying oil... so, thinking of going with the 15-20K oils for hopefully slightly better oil longevity.
mobil 1 0w40

if it’s DI go with a C3 oil
 
mobil 1 0w40

if it’s DI go with a C3 oil
I know M1 has excellent long drain oils, but if I can use Super Tech for a lot cheaper I might give it a go. On the other hand, if I could extend my OCI, I could possibly go a whole year with only two oil changes and go with M1 5w-30 EP using their rebate, which would end up around the same price as Super Tech Advanced.
 
I change my oil at roughly every 10,000 miles. Using the OLM that is what it averages out to be. M1 0w30 or 10w30 at 10k looks like a dark tea. It's probably good for more miles. Rotella T5 10w30 is a bit more dark at 10K but I don't think that matters to the engine, 2.4 4 banger. I have been running STP 10w40 dino recently and well, it works good too. I bought 5 qt jugs of this on closeout for next to nothing. I have lots of it and I'm putting it to use. Last February we had -17 ambient temps here in Kansas City. I had Delvac 1300 in the crankcase with a quart of MMO to clean up the ringpacks on my engine. Not an ideal time to have 40 wt in the engine but I figured with the MMO I was right at a high 20wt. My battery was just able to crank the engine and a few times it would crank then start to click then crank. My engine and power steering pump would whine for a couple minutes but nothing locked up, blew up, or gave up. The Honda doesn't care what oil it has, as long as it has oil. Use what oil you want, syn or dino. Liquid cooled engines just are not hard on oil. Now my Harley or ZTR, both air cooled, makes oil black by the time they are due for an oil change.
 
I agree I would rather see a higher TBN but that doesn't tell the whole story. I've seen TBN numbers higher that actually dropped faster to 1 then a lower one that held on longer - if that makes sense. I mean one oil may start at 8 TBN and fall to 1 faster then another oil that starts at a lower TBN.
 
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