Virgin ST10575 cut open

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Was at Walmart and saw this for under $3. Figured I'd get it to cut open. Not a fan at all of the combo valve. Other than that, it looks very similar to the PF63E I cut open a while back. Even the crooked pleats at the seam look identical.

Enjoy the pics
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How easy was it to remove the end caps from the pleat ends? Thanks for the C&P.
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Did they find that ADBV buried behind the factory? Yuck!


Yeah, it has a white chalky residue on it????
 
Originally Posted by K20FA5
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Did they find that ADBV buried behind the factory? Yuck!

Yeah, it has a white chalky residue on it????


Might be mold release or just surface oxidation, probably harmless.
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Did they find that ADBV buried behind the factory? Yuck!

The white residue on the combo valve is the corrosion inhibitor Champ Labs uses. I have never seen rust on an eCore.
grin2.gif
 
Talcum is commonly used in bulk storage of rubber seals or other rubber products to prevent sticking and preservation. You'll find it commonly in rubber gloves for example.
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Talcum is commonly used in bulk storage of rubber seals or other rubber products to prevent sticking and preservation. You'll find it commonly in rubber gloves for example.

They spray this liberally on the inside of the can. It has a waxy consistency. Definitely not talcum powder.
 
Originally Posted by K20FA5
Was at Walmart and saw this for under $3. Figured I'd get it to cut open. Not a fan at all of the combo valve. ...

Yeah, I just am not crazy about them either.
I can deal with nitrile ADV since I don't do real long OCI, I am OK with e-cores, no probem with fiber end caps. Just combo valves bother me.
I plan on skipping any of them that have combo valves.

I really like the ST9688. Kind of an oddball with metal end caps, e-core center and dome end bypass. Will be what I use on my sisters Hyundai after I use my last Bosch D+ on the next change.

Thanks for the C&P.
 
Originally Posted by WellOiled
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Talcum is commonly used in bulk storage of rubber seals or other rubber products to prevent sticking and preservation. You'll find it commonly in rubber gloves for example.

They spray this liberally on the inside of the can. It has a waxy consistency. Definitely not talcum powder.


Waxy? The OP describes it as "chalky", not waxy...it can't be both. I would not be surprised if it was chalk because the rubber component is probably made many months (or years even) prior to final assembly in the end product and rubber, over time, has a tendency to revert back to it's sticky natural state. And talcum is the cheapest, most common method of preventing sticking.

If it's some kind of spray for the metal canister to prevent oxidation, they would need to do it without the filter media and other components in place. Why would they insert the media and everything else and then spray that? The media and rubber don't rust. Doesn't make sense...

Watch these filters being made at Fram. I don't see anywhere where they "spray" a waxy white residue. It does however show a worker placing bulk rubber seals on.

https://youtu.be/g4plO1kunHk
 
Last edited:
Does anyone know the bypass pressure setting on the ST10575? Is it 20-22 like the PF63e, or 15 like the older PF48? I have the ST on my Sierra now, bought it before I knew the difference. I now have stash of Premium Guards that claim to have the 22lb setting for future use, but I'm still curious.
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by WellOiled
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Talcum is commonly used in bulk storage of rubber seals or other rubber products to prevent sticking and preservation. You'll find it commonly in rubber gloves for example.

They spray this liberally on the inside of the can. It has a waxy consistency. Definitely not talcum powder.


Waxy? The OP describes it as "chalky", not waxy...it can't be both. I would not be surprised if it was chalk because the rubber component is probably made many months (or years even) prior to final assembly in the end product and rubber, over time, has a tendency to revert back to it's sticky natural state. And talcum is the cheapest, most common method of preventing sticking.

If it's some kind of spray for the metal canister to prevent oxidation, they would need to do it without the filter media and other components in place. Why would they insert the media and everything else and then spray that? The media and rubber don't rust. Doesn't make sense...

Watch these filters being made at Fram. I don't see anywhere where they "spray" a waxy white residue. It does however show a worker placing bulk rubber seals on.

https://youtu.be/g4plO1kunHk

This is a very good video but the SuperTech filters are made by Champ Labs not Fram. I have cut open a good number of eCores and Champ does spray the inside of the can with "something".
 
Originally Posted by dadto2
Does anyone know the bypass pressure setting on the ST10575? Is it 20-22 like the PF63e, or 15 like the older PF48? I have the ST on my Sierra now, bought it before I knew the difference. I now have stash of Premium Guards that claim to have the 22lb setting for future use, but I'm still curious.

Good question. I would like to know this as well. It would seem the combo valve would be harder to calibrate. Since the rubber is stiffer when cold and more pliable when hot, it would seem the bypass psi would change too?

I went back out and can confirm that it's some sort of powder on the anti drain back valve. I can wipe it off easily.

There seems to be nothing sprayed inside the can. At least nothing that I can feel.
 
I ran one of these STs in my wife's Malibu for almost 9K. The wife, Malibu and filter survived just wonderfully...... all still in one piece and no war wounds......lol

When she found out I put a Supertech on her just recently passed-on mother's ride since 2003, she immediately went out and bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe and even paid cash for it.

Now I'm stuck with the Malibu and I will never buy another Supertech again. She won;t even let me drive her new ride.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I ran one of these STs in my wife's Malibu for almost 9K. The wife, Malibu and filter survived just wonderfully...... all still in one piece and no war wounds......lol

When she found out I put a Supertech on her just recently passed-on mother's ride since 2003, she immediately went out and bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe and even paid cash for it.

Now I'm stuck with the Malibu and I will never buy another Supertech again. She won;t even let me drive her new ride.


Then maybe she should get good at changing her own oil!
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I ran one of these STs in my wife's Malibu for almost 9K. The wife, Malibu and filter survived just wonderfully...... all still in one piece and no war wounds......lol

When she found out I put a Supertech on her just recently passed-on mother's ride since 2003, she immediately went out and bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe and even paid cash for it.

Now I'm stuck with the Malibu and I will never buy another Supertech again. She won;t even let me drive her new ride.

lol.gif
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I ran one of these STs in my wife's Malibu for almost 9K. The wife, Malibu and filter survived just wonderfully, ...... all still in one piece and no war wounds......lol

When she found out I put a Supertech on her just recently passed-on mother's ride since 2003, she immediately went out and bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe and even paid cash for it.

Now I'm stuck with the Malibu and I will never buy another Supertech again. She won;t even let me drive her new ride.


...‚...‚...‚
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson

Then maybe she should get good at changing her own oil!


Been married twice and divorced twice.. that's probably not a battle worth fighting....
 
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