Very long term storage of OPE.....

[Chris B.]

I have an extra lawn mower that was given to me. It is a used Toro Personal Pace that is 4 years old but still has a lot of life left in it. I'm going to store it till my current mower wears out so it might be in storage for a few years or longer. Should I store it dry with no fluids or should I keep oil in it to help prevent corrosion? I put grease on the newly sharpened blade to keep it rust free and will spray the inside deck with oil.
It will be protected in a shed. Thanks!

 

[JHZR2]

I would wash the deck well, clean the whole thing, then run it fully dry and perhaps even drop the carb to remove any remaining gas.

Id then change the oil, and fog the engine with an appropriate fogging spray. I may spray a bit in the fuel tank too just for good measure to coat and creep over the surfaces.

 

[linksep]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I would wash the deck well, clean the whole thing, then run it fully dry and perhaps even drop the carb to remove any remaining gas.

Id then change the oil, and fog the engine with an appropriate fogging spray. I may spray a bit in the fuel tank too just for good measure to coat and creep over the surfaces.


Then pull the starter rope slowly until the engine is on the compression stroke (valves closed to minimize humidity entering the cylinder). Put it away and be aware you may need to replace rubber (hoses, primer bulb, etc.) when you pull it out of storage.

 

[The_Jeff]

Mist it with WD40 then cover the air intake with aluminum foil and saran wrap to keep critters out.

 

[Kira]

All of the above AND sleuce (sp?) the dickens out of any height adjustment hardware at each wheel with WD-40.

I ALWAYS see old mowers at recycling with the sheet metal height adjusters rusted away.

I sleuce that cheap and twangy sheet metal on my mower amid season and at season's end.

To everyone: Name a good fogging spray please. I've only heard of using oil. Kira

 

[philipp10]

Originally Posted By: linksep
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I would wash the deck well, clean the whole thing, then run it fully dry and perhaps even drop the carb to remove any remaining gas.

Id then change the oil, and fog the engine with an appropriate fogging spray. I may spray a bit in the fuel tank too just for good measure to coat and creep over the surfaces.


Then pull the starter rope slowly until the engine is on the compression stroke (valves closed to minimize humidity entering the cylinder). Put it away and be aware you may need to replace rubber (hoses, primer bulb, etc.) when you pull it out of storage.


Agree with all. Not sure why you feel the rubber will go bad unless it is in the sun. I have seen 20 year old rubber that is just fine as long as the sun doesn't get to it. If stored in a garage, nothing attacks rubber, it's basically inert.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: Kira


To everyone: Name a good fogging spray please. I've only heard of using oil. Kira



Lubriplate makes one. I've seen it here and there, most recently I believe at Wal-Mart.

 

[Chris B.]

How do you tell if the engine is on the compression cycle? Pull the spark plug and look inside or is it by feel? Many thanks everyone!

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

I've used Pennzoil fogging oil, available at Walmart. Wash thoroughly, warm up the engine, change oil, fog engine, drain gas tank, drain carb bowl, spray/coat gas tank, if metal, with light "oil" (fogging oil, WD-40, Fluid Film, light motor oil, etc...) and stuff aluminum foil into intake/exhaust to stop critters from getting in.

No point in oiling the blades really... first use they'll "clean" up.

 

[ironman_gq]

Slowly pull the recoil rope till you feel it hit the compression stroke, the resistance on the rope will increase rapidly when it is on the compression stroke. You can also pull the spark plug and put your thumb over the hole, air will be pushed out when it is on the compression stroke.

 

[Chris B.]

I drained the oil last night. Can I still fog it with no oil in the engine and the engine cold? If not I'll have to fill it with oil again and gas it back up then re-drain gas and oil again which I was hoping to avoid. Thanks!

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Fill engine with oil and spray fogging oil into intake while turning engine over by hand or starter or rope.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Don't drain the oil, put new oil in and leave it in.

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
Fill engine with oil and spray fogging oil into intake while turning engine over by hand or starter or rope.


^^ this. Fog the carb and completely fill the engine to the top with cheap motor oil. I have seen stored marine engines for years like this. when I fog an engine I stall it out with the fogging oil. That way it gets all the way into the intake and upper cylinder area.

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: Chris B.
I drained the oil last night. Can I still fog it with no oil in the engine and the engine cold? If not I'll have to fill it with oil again and gas it back up then re-drain gas and oil again which I was hoping to avoid. Thanks!


Run the gas dry with a quadruple does of stabil in it. Then put 2 ounces of stabil in the dry gas tank. Or since you have run it dry then fog with he starter rope and some stabil in the tank. Then fill the engine with oil. You can then leave it sit for years. If you're a real anal retentive like me, spray the whole mower down with Boeshield and cover with a breathable cover. Once a year pull the starter cord to rotate the engine.

 

[Doog]

Then at commission time, drain all of the cheap oil. Wash the mower exterior. Fill with usual spec oil and gas up. Give it a shot of starting fluid and when the blue smoke is gone in 3 minutes you are ready to roll.

 

[lars11]

Good advice, very bitog too...
I got to start our very old tiller in the shed a while back, it hadn't been started in over 10yrs. The briggs 3.5 hp with manual choke started right up with the fresh fuel I filled it with. It had no fogging, no stabil, no nothing but dust and actually ran well. Even the diaphragm seemed to have done the time with honor.
Given that, I think your mower will survive fine if you do all of the above tips!

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: philipp10

Agree with all. Not sure why you feel the rubber will go bad unless it is in the sun. I have seen 20 year old rubber that is just fine as long as the sun doesn't get to it. If stored in a garage, nothing attacks rubber, it's basically inert.


Not sure how much rubber we are talking about on a lawn mower, but you can bet your left kidney that a 20 year old rubber fuel line needs replaced.

 

[UNC201]

If I had to guesstimate, my single stager Honda HS621 is about 12-18 years olf. (prefer it out of almost every SS on the market)......the rubber lines on them are both fine. I actually had two of these 621. Still nice and supple..

 

[old1]

My snapper 5 hp. tecumseh 2 stage snowblower is on its 22nd year with original everything, and I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke" school. LOL