Vehicle motor oil vs. lawnmower oil

[Ugly3]

Triple_Se7en - The heavier weights were/are recommended for lawmowers more-so. The thin ones are listed in your newer lawnmower manuals because lawnmower manufacturers know repeat customer-ship is low & most lawnmowers sold are cheap ones... therefore they don't care about longetivity like a car manufacturer. They may even be under attack by vehicle oil companies to promote theirs in these manuals. So to keep them happy & quiet, the lawnmower-makers include the thin oils.

Is this a joke?

 

[Ugly3]

quote:

---

Originally posted by rocketman:
What is the closest type of vehicle motor oil that I can use in my lawnmower if the mower calls for SAE 30 for temps above 32(F) and 5W30 for temps below 32(F). Obviously, I'm going to be using the mower in temps above 32. Vehicle motor oil is always on sale, plus I have a small stash.

---

Briggs now say that full synthetic 5w30 is fine at all temps.

 

[Ray H]

quote:

---

Originally posted by HondaMan:
I have always used the Exxon SuperFlow SAE 30 available from AZ for all the mowers and edgers.
( always priced right )

I can say that a time or two I've put in a 10w-30, but I have always felt that the mowers would blow too much smoke.

---

Agree on all counts. Even the Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh user manuals advise that use of multiweight oil in temperatures not requiring their use ( ) - minimal or no VIIs to shear down to the base oil rating (which is NOT 30 weight viscosity by any stretch), an additive package that's at least to minimal current API ratings, and high detergency. Definitely a better buy and quality than the cheesey Briggs & Stratton or Tecumseh brand oils typically rated at least two API generations behind, and sold by the 20 oz. bottle that's priced about as high as a discounted full quart of Castrol GTX.

 

[Ray H]

quote:

---

Originally posted by windcatcher:
I use 30 wt. oil detergent. But because my lawn equipment does not have filters I have been thinking of changing to a 30 wt nondetergent oil. The reason for this is the detergent will suspend dirt in the oil and the non detergent will let the dirt settle in the pan...

---

I totally disagree (and so do Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Kohler, and Tecumseh). In addition to not containing detergents, non-detergent oils also do not have any antiwear additive package to speak of. That alone argues for a full additive package in air-cooled engines, which are subject to hot spots in running. Additionally, in the engine sump I would WANT dispersement of particulates in the oil to keep them from aggragating together and promoting sludge formation*. But, your engine, your decision (and your money -

).

*Perhaps(?) a greater concern for Tecumseh than Briggs & Stratton vertical shaft motors. B&S small vertical shaft motors use a splash lube system from a gear-driven dipper whipping an oil mist in all directions inside the motor. Tecumseh small vertical shaft motors use a piston-type positive displacement oil pump driven from an eccentric on the bottom of the camshaft. Oil is pumped under pressure through a hollowed camshaft up to the upper camshaft and main bearings from which it's then directed through an orifice as a spray at the connecting rod journal and camshaft lobes. In design theory Tecumseh's approach is arguably superior. In practice, it's awfully hard to wear out a Briggs & Stratton motor even with just minimal maintenance. But, progressive sludging of a Tecumseh vertical shaft motor's hollow camshaft would eventually result in catastrophic upper bearing, camshaft lobe, and connecting rod journal bearing failure.

[ May 08, 2005, 02:57 PM: Message edited by: Ray H ]

 

[Brons2]

I'm using Delvac 1 in my lawnmower right now. It seems to like it. It seems to have eliminated a lot of the smoking that was previously going on with 10w30 and straight 30wt at startup. It doesn't seem to burn off either like the 30wt. Plus it seems to have more power when it's hot.

The stuff is spendy though, maybe a 15w40 like Rotella that is cheap at WalMart would work just as good.

I have a 6.5 HP Briggs on a Snapper lawn mower, btw.

 

[Starbreaker666]

Valvoline 5/30 All Climate in my mower every year. I also never chagne the oil each season. just top up as needed. Mowers are cheap and I have never had one last less then 5 seasons. Actually each mower was still running great it was just the rest of it falling apart.

 

[segfault]

We have a gas powered edger and a gas powered pressure washer. I use Supertech 5w30 dino in both, and have not had any consumption issues. However, they are not used frequently.

My family's lawnmower is a diesel Deere, so we use Deere's good (and cheap) Plus 50 oil for it.

 

[JohnBrowning]

A multigrade 10W40 or 15W40 is going to most closely replacate a SAE 30 in the engine. A 15W40 is going to have the best additive package going. Like many have posted just about any 5W30,10W30,10W40,15W40,15W50 will do especialy in the warm months. I ran M1 0W40 in a Craftsman Lawn and Garden Tractor it is either a 17.5 or a 25 HP Briggs. It actualy like the 0W40 best so far. It starts great and has kept the oil really clean compared to everything else we have ran in it!

 

[DaveJ]

Come on guys cough up some Lawnmower UOA's for us

. I too have always used two different weight oils in my push mowers, stright 30W and Delo 15W40. And both have at the end of the mowing season a fine metal feeling to them. Not any metal you can see but just a slight gritty feeling. I am going on the 8th year on this MTD 21 inch Brigs. No smoke, 3rd sparkplug, 4th blade and one coil. DaveJ

 

[Tremo]

I just bought a quart of DELO 400 15W-40 for the 6.75 hp Tecumseh on my lawnmower. We'll see how it works.....

 

[T-Keith]

Delo 15w40 seems to be doing great in my 6hp Briggs walk behind.

 

[kcryan]

5w-30 in my tecumsch generator, straight 30wt wouldnt start in the cold(when i needed it) but now the 5w is on the ground so i dont know what the **** to do

 

[Bullet]

I bought a new 6.5 hp briggs engine today for the sanpper and the counter person stated if you use multigrade it will consume oil and its best to use 30w. The owner's manual stated to use 30w or 10w30.

My 11hp Generac generator's manual states to use on 5w30 Mobil one synthetic.

 

[Yuk]

quote:

---

My mower also calls for SAE30 in similar temps and 5w-30 for lower temps. It does however state that a 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil may be used in higher temps if SYNTHETIC oil is used.

---

My 6hp Briggs & Stratton manual recommends the same as above. So, at the last oil change I dropped in GC 0W-30. There has been no oil consumption and no spark plug fouling. Once in while I'll see a little puff of smoke at start up, but it's hardly frequent enough for me to worry.

 

[JohnBrowning]

None of our equipment ever use's any oil and they have all traditionaly been run on multiviscosity oils intended for cars or diesels! I have run synthetic and dino and never had a problem. SYnthetic stays clean longer and starts better in the cold. I have never worn a lawn mower engine out. They usuly rust out or the carb is junk! You can only rebuild those cheap little carb's so many times. It is usualy cheaper to buy another lawnmower then to buy a new carb for one. SInce 1971 my mom and dad have only owned 2 lawn mowers and one garden Tractor and all of their gas powered trimers are still running fine! You really have to neglect small lawn and garden equipment to wear it out or use it commericaly!

 

[haley10]

quote:

---

Originally posted by windcatcher:
I use 30 wt. oil detergent. But because my lawn equipment does not have filters I have been thinking of changing to a 30 wt nondetergent oil. The reason for this is the detergent will suspend dirt in the oil and the non detergent will let the dirt settle in the pan witness a oil air cleaner. I change my oil often. Mike

---

Please read Ray H. comments. He is correct. ND is not a good idea.

 

[Ray H]

quote:

---

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
...I have never worn a lawn mower engine out. They usuly rust out or the carb is junk...

---

Put a (expletive of your choice) inline fuel filter* and a shut-off valve between the fuel tank and the carb, and USE the valve at each shut-off. What little extra gas the motor uses to drain the carb bowl and die from fuel starvation will more than make up for the carb maintenance you'll avoid.

*Yeah, I know - there's a screen in the tank, but it's too coarse to trap the smaller abrasives that'll go straight to the motor and grind away at the rings and bearings.

 

[windcatcher]

Thanks Ray H. I will continue to use a 30 weight detergent oil in my lawn equipment. Mike

 

[sdude2k2000]

I've got Havoline 5w30 in my new Honda mower... doesn't smoke one bit when i fire it up.

 

[Chimay]

I just Bought a JD with a 18 horse Kawasaki. The recommended oil's are 5W-40, 10W-30, or 5W-30. Which oil would you use? I have plenty of Mobil 1
10W-30 ss on hand but thinking about using Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck/SUV what do you think. Suggestions.