Valvoline Restore and Protect

I leave Atlanta for Maine next week, 1300 mile trip. I’ll be taking the CRV which is still on its first run of VRP after taking the car over from my sister in law last year. I have not quite 4k miles on the oil, but think I will go ahead and change it before we hit the road.

Its prior life was ~10k changes at the quickie lube. Can you tell? 😂😳

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I leave Atlanta for Maine next week, 1300 mile trip. I’ll be taking the CRV which is still on its first run of VRP after taking the car over from my sister in law last year. I have not quite 4k miles on the oil, but think I will go ahead and change it before we hit the road. Its prior life was ~10k changes at the quickie lube.
1300 each way.

Good plan. New filter, fresh round of Restore and Protect. Cut this filter for inspection and reference.
 
This photo is of pistons in a GM LGX V6 ( the better one without timing chain issues) that had 140k km on the engine. A recent teardown video. I have the same engine and am running VRP (4th change). The pistons in my 3.6 were likely already clean because I only used top tier oil ever 5k miles, but I figured it can't hurt to run VRP to clean up anything that may be there regardless.

As you can see, with normal oil changes this engine would likely start consuming oil due to ring build up.


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This photo is of pistons in a GM LGX V6 ( the better one without timing chain issues) that had 140k km on the engine. A recent teardown video. I have the same engine and am running VRP (4th change). The pistons in my 3.6 were likely already clean because I only used top tier oil ever 5k miles, but I figured it can't hurt to run VRP to clean up anything that may be there regardless.

As you can see, with normal oil changes this engine would likely start consuming oil due to ring build up.


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Kinda hard to tell but (sadly) that's probably better than most cars on the road!!
 
One has to wonder if these dry oils so to speak (lacking the group V solvency) off the shelf just can't handle the heat long term. I really think that's the case. Off the shelf - M1 ESP/EP (hoping EP has AN) and VRP. Otherwise Amsoil/HPL for higher solvency. I'm probably oversimplifying things because you don't know what's in some of these modern oils but when you look at the economics you can see what oils are using ester/AN and those that don't. There seems to be much more carbon in the esterless based oils.
 
One has to wonder if these dry oils so to speak (lacking the group V solvency) off the shelf just can't handle the heat long term. I really think that's the case. Off the shelf - M1 ESP/EP (hoping EP has AN) and VRP. Otherwise Amsoil/HPL for higher solvency. I'm probably oversimplifying things because you don't know what's in some of these modern oils but when you look at the economics you can see what oils are using ester/AN and those that don't. There seems to be much more carbon in the esterless based oils.
Yes IMO it’s all about the base oil quality. That’s why I don’t recommend oils like Supertech or even low tier name brand oils. They don’t clean and can’t keep engines clean, especially pistons. Short oci’s don’t make up for mediocre base oils in my experience…..
 
Yes IMO it’s all about the base oil quality. That’s why I don’t recommend oils like Supertech or even low tier name brand oils. They don’t clean and can’t keep engines clean, especially pistons. Short oci’s don’t make up for mediocre base oils in my experience…..
Especially in the more demanding vehicles these days, as we know.

Go up a grade, especially if there is fuel dilution? Sure.

But, using a better oil is arguably more important (idk the percentages here lol) than the grade itself. I would run 5w-20 Amsoil SS without hesitation if my vehicle were new and with where I live. It's not my preference in terms of grade, but I'll take that or even their 0w-20 SS > entry level 30 grade oils.
 
Just came back from the garage after reading a couple posts. I went down to take a look at the valve train through the oil fill hole. Cams are starting to clean up between the lobes and the lobes are spotless as are the tops of the lifters. The aluminum head looks brand new not a single spot of varnish on it. The valve cover still has some varnish on it as well as around the oil fill hole but you can see that the R&P is working by the different shading of the varnish. On my second R&P oil change, Volvo I6 3.0L with 152k miles on it.
 
Just came back from the garage after reading a couple posts. I went down to take a look at the valve train through the oil fill hole. Cams are starting to clean up between the lobes and the lobes are spotless as are the tops of the lifters. The aluminum head looks brand new not a single spot of varnish on it. The valve cover still has some varnish on it as well as around the oil fill hole but you can see that the R&P is working by the different shading of the varnish. On my second R&P oil change, Volvo I6 3.0L with 152k miles on it.
What's the oil change history for the car? Are you burning oil? Thanks for sharing your report.
 
Yes IMO it’s all about the base oil quality. That’s why I don’t recommend oils like Supertech or even low tier name brand oils. They don’t clean and can’t keep engines clean, especially pistons. Short oci’s don’t make up for mediocre base oils in my experience…..
I overall tend to agree with you on this. However, Valvoline stands out as a company that seems to put less into their base oils and more into the additive package. Obviously your history with it would be in support that base oil quality is paramount.
 
Interestingly even M1 EP didn't keep GW's friend from burning oil in his Subaru (same engine as hers). Just delayed it to 120k. And @ChrisD46 stuck his rings on M1 EP too.
That guy was doing 6K OCI with 0W-20 oil in a DI engine that's hard on the oil.

I've done 5K UOA with AFE 0W-20 and the oil was done. The EP is not a miracle oil just because it's says EP and 15K miles on the label. He was running mediocre oil for longer than needed in multiple (20 to be exact) OCI.
 
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