NOACK it is then - thanks ! Next, I’m wondering if Valvoline Restore and Protect is heat activated ? If so I’m a better candidate case use for Valvoline Restore and Protect as my shortest drive is 12 miles at 45 MPH. Usual distances are 50 to 100 miles at 45 MPH to 70 MPH
Valvoline Restore and Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
- Start date
Just last week I bought a 5-gallon bay-box of VRP 0w-20 from Walmart for $127 shipped (including taxes). It was drop-shipped from Valvoline worldwide. That's roughly equivalent to the in-store price of $29 / 5qt jug. . . and I didn't have to go inside a WalMart.
I suppose I merely wish we could have the data on a test at the lower temp to know for sure out of curiosity. Maybe some formulation differences could reveal slightly better or worse volatility between the two at the lower temp than seemingly the same rate of volatility as Noack may demonstrate? I could be overthinking it. Just curious if we could have the data.
Vaporization should typically be at a much lower rate at lower temperatures. In order for Oil A to show more vaporization rate at say 150C vs Oil B, but show less vaporization rate at 250C vs Oil B, there would have to be a lot of light fractions of very volatile molecules in Oil A that vaporized at low temperature, but also have a bunch of highly stable fractions that didn't vaporize at 250C. Whatever vaporized at 150C will definitely be vaporized out at 250C in Oil A.I suppose I merely wish we could have the data on a test at the lower temp to know for sure out of curiosity. Maybe some formulation differences could reveal slightly better or worse volatility between the two at the lower temp than seemingly the same rate of volatility as Noack may demonstrate? I could be overthinking it. Just curious if we could have the data.
And Oil B would have to be very stable at 150C but then have a whole bunch of molecule fractions that vaporized at 250C. It could be possible, but the oil formulations would have to be drastically different. In a case like that, the vaporization rate vs temperature curves could cross over someplace between 150C and 250C. If comparing oils of very similar formulations I think the vaporization rate vs temperature curves would never cross over. It would be interesting to see actual lab data to see if someone could show a Noack curve cross-over.
Researching the purpose of the Noack test, and why 250C was chosen, it was for a number of reasons but the fact that the piston crown and ring pack typically can run around 250C was to determine how much the oil may vaporize in that region. And oil vaporization in that region can lead to deposits as we see with pistons and rings. Does that mean a lower Noack motor oil could help reduce piston and ring deposits? I would think so to some degree depending on the specific oil formulation, and of course other oil forluation factors play in controlling deposits. Like mentioned earlier, the limits specified by the oil testers (15% and 13%) must correlate to a pretty low rate of deposits, otherwise the limits might have been specified to be lower than that.
@ZeeOSix Good explanation of what that might look like. I think the limits of those tests are the debate between what's the acceptable level and the correlation between there being more of a minimum standard, rather than optimal. I don't think it's a coincidence, for example, that Amsoil Signature Series piston cleanliness testing look absolutely immaculate and the lower Noack scores likely contribute to this. I think VRP being able to clean likely is the exception here because most oils around those limits could have more of a tendency to lead to said deposits. I'm all for vaporizied VRP to be able to clean areas such as intakes and PCV systems. Almost like it's an unintended feature rather than a bug. 
I decided to try Valvoline R&P in my 1997 Suburban, which has 202,000 miles on the original 5.7L engine. When I got this Suburban about 5 years ago the thermostat was stuck open, and based on a review of the service records (complaints of no heat) it had been like that for quite some time. The engine was consuming a lot of oil, and I suspected some of the rings were stuck from the cold operating temperature, light throttle, and decades of cheap oil. Although I have been able to reduce the oil consumption down to about 1 quart per 1500 miles, I still think there is room for improvement.
Because this is a 2wd Suburban there is clearance for an oversized oil filter. Seemed like a good idea at least for the first OCI with the R&P.
I am about 1000 miles into the OCI and have been giving it all the throttle therapy I can.
Because this is a 2wd Suburban there is clearance for an oversized oil filter. Seemed like a good idea at least for the first OCI with the R&P.
I am about 1000 miles into the OCI and have been giving it all the throttle therapy I can.
THAT is a gynormous oil filter, bravo! I love the "all-in" 5 gallon container. I chickened out and did 5 gallon jugs. Hopefully VR&P helps restore this GM V8 back to health. After that long under less than ideal operating temps, keep us posted on how the story goes!
This is not scientific in any way but my 2002 1MZ-FE which has had 3,000-5,000 mile oil changes it's whole life was starting to slightly consume some oil 160,000 miles on it. It also has had a rattle when cold for years now specifically around the 2500rpm range but when warm it would be completely gone.
Decided to do a switch from Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage to VRP, and only about 200 miles in that cold rattle has reduced about 95% it is nearly gone, obviously too soon to tell with the oil consumption when I say slightly I mean as in only half a quart in 5,000 miles which is pretty much nothing but it was consuming nothing at all before so hopefully VRP will tackle whatever it is that has caused it to begin to consume slightly although I do not intend to run this 5,000 miles and will only run it up to 3,000 this run.
If all goes well I will either decide to continue running it or might switch to Valvoline Extended Performance High Mileage.
Decided to do a switch from Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage to VRP, and only about 200 miles in that cold rattle has reduced about 95% it is nearly gone, obviously too soon to tell with the oil consumption when I say slightly I mean as in only half a quart in 5,000 miles which is pretty much nothing but it was consuming nothing at all before so hopefully VRP will tackle whatever it is that has caused it to begin to consume slightly although I do not intend to run this 5,000 miles and will only run it up to 3,000 this run.
If all goes well I will either decide to continue running it or might switch to Valvoline Extended Performance High Mileage.
The general consensus would be to continue with VRP, for at least 3 more OCI.
Whether I keep running it depends on how well it performs within the 3,000 mile interval, it may very well become it's permanent oil going forward although I do prefer high mileage oils with additional seal conditioners in it.
HM oils are designed to swell seals and stop leaks caused by worn seals. So are you trying to stop a leak as well?
Some users have reported increased oil use on the first one or two intervals of R&P before consumption lessons. Nobody is sure why it happens, but the consensus is to stick with R&P and consumption eventually lessons during later oil change intervals.
Nope it is a preference on older vehicles, the only vehicle of mine that has a "leak" is my Chevy 4.3 with a seeping oil pan but it never drips so I don't care about pulling the engine to put a new oil pan gasket on it.
It is more of a preventative, 20+ year old seal is going to be on the more brittle side whether or not it leaks.
If I had to guess maybe something to do with VRP partially unsticking the rings but not fully there yet.
12 miles is not a short drive. In city traffic you need at least 30-40 min. to cover it. Your engine is at working temp. after about 10 min or sooner, depending on the ambient temp.
Short drive is 5 miles or less.
It is a very good observation, whatever oil you were using that you changed at 3000- or 5000-miles points to something very interesting, you started consuming oil at 160,000 miles! This shows that the oil you were using was letting deposits build up overtime, I know the engine design issue with the Piston ring holes. If you had extended your OCI's beyond 5000 miles your oil consumption would probably be worse.
What I am seeing is that as soon as you start driving a new car you are probably building up deposits, more so on DI versus MPFI, this Valvoline Restore and Protect could be just as good or better at preventing deposits as it is at cleaning deposits!
It is always easier to keep something clean as opposed to cleaning something up!
So the records I have from the original owners which also lines up with carfax is it had 3,000 mile oil changes all during their ownership it specifically ran Quakerstate during their whole ownership, I bought it from a dealer a long time ago now, I ran Quakerstate for a little while before switching strictly to Mobil 1 High Mileage Full Synthetic.
Under my ownership it was 5,000 mile intervals I would not dare to run it beyond that knowing 1MZ-FE's are known to sludge, I also change the PCV Valve every couple years because that is also another known issue on these engines.
So it roughly has around 60,000 miles worth of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage oil changes on it.
Awesome!
Not as Awesome as 3000 miles, but you were using a better oil!
Sounds like you have used a better oil than what is offered at the Quick Lube Place!
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
It has probably cleaned the lands between rings pretty good, but hasn't gotten in the grooves and behind the oil control rings and opened up the drain holes in the pistons yet. So the oil is getting up past the rings but can't drain through the piston drain holes yet.
That is funny!!!
Similar threads
