I'm a newbie who's been lurking reading for a few weeks now. So please help me out here - I don't know all the terminology, quite yet.
I think Valvoline offers VR-1 "racing" and two other "racing" oils now. One of the new oils is a conventional oil and the other is a synthetic.
I've always run the "old" VR-1 before they started offering these new racing blends. It always said not to run it in a street car on the bottle - but now it does not. I suspect that they've changed the formulation, but I don't know for sure what they've done - and emailing them from their website resulted in me getting a two line useless response from someone who doesn't know anything about their products or how to answer questions. I really want to understand what's different. My hope is that this will help me to choose the best oil for my engine and the optimum OCI for my engine.
Here's what I've been doing until now...
I run the racing oil in a street driven 1970 small block oldsmobile engine that's been blueprinted and clearanced for a 20w50 racing oil. It's got a large flat-tappet camshaft and some pretty strong valve springs, as well. My longest OCI is 1500 miles or 6 months - whichever comes first. Typical time between changes is about 1-2 months in the summer. I always run 20w50 VR-1 and never start the car when the temperature is below about 50 degrees in my garage. I live in WA state, if that matters.
I understand that VR-1 (at least the original VR-1 formulation) doesn't contain the same amount of detergent as a conventional oil and that's why I use a max 1500 mile OCI. Also, it might not handle moisture as well as conventional oils... true? Do you think that my OCI is reasonable? Is there a better oil that's readily available? Rotella racing?
I think Valvoline offers VR-1 "racing" and two other "racing" oils now. One of the new oils is a conventional oil and the other is a synthetic.
I've always run the "old" VR-1 before they started offering these new racing blends. It always said not to run it in a street car on the bottle - but now it does not. I suspect that they've changed the formulation, but I don't know for sure what they've done - and emailing them from their website resulted in me getting a two line useless response from someone who doesn't know anything about their products or how to answer questions. I really want to understand what's different. My hope is that this will help me to choose the best oil for my engine and the optimum OCI for my engine.
Here's what I've been doing until now...
I run the racing oil in a street driven 1970 small block oldsmobile engine that's been blueprinted and clearanced for a 20w50 racing oil. It's got a large flat-tappet camshaft and some pretty strong valve springs, as well. My longest OCI is 1500 miles or 6 months - whichever comes first. Typical time between changes is about 1-2 months in the summer. I always run 20w50 VR-1 and never start the car when the temperature is below about 50 degrees in my garage. I live in WA state, if that matters.
I understand that VR-1 (at least the original VR-1 formulation) doesn't contain the same amount of detergent as a conventional oil and that's why I use a max 1500 mile OCI. Also, it might not handle moisture as well as conventional oils... true? Do you think that my OCI is reasonable? Is there a better oil that's readily available? Rotella racing?
