Valve Adjustment at 61k miles?

[HowAboutThis]

Tight valves don’t make noise. The manual is poorly worded to “adjust only if noisy”. More damage can be done by the quiet ones than the “noisy” ones.

Yup. My 02 Civic had similar wording and to check like every 100k. They were never super far off, but I checked myself every 30k or so. How I caught a bad exhaust cam before doing major damage. I think it was the exhaust that often needed a little loosening and the intake needed tightening. But in 30k pretty much held their spec. Plugs... Changed twice in 200k miles.

Auto parts stores will do a battery load test for free. Check it on your own to verify.

 

[HowAboutThis]

Hard to say without understanding your skill level and access to tools. You need a good set of feeler gauges, a 10mm socket and a screwdriver for the adjustment. An understanding of how much drag a feeler gauge should have when the right setting is achieved is critical too. It takes me about an hour total if the engine is already cold, but I have done many, and I don't rush it.

Yeah, definitely cause more anxiety than an oil change. But not rocket science either. Depends on your skill level and how much risk you're willing to take.

 

[HowAboutThis]

I've done this recently to my Acura CSX, with K20Z2 engine.

It's not hard, but time consuming task. Accord will be even easier as spark plugs/head cover is easily accessible unlike my car, where everything is buried under the front windshield.

The trick is both intake and exhaust cams should not push to the rocker arm, that's how you understand you are at TDC aside from the cam gear marks. You can also adjust the other valves that are not pushing, but that can be confusing, better to go by the book especially if this is your first time.

Also you don't have to jack up the car and use the crank bolt, you can turn the engine by using a wrench on the camshaft.

Rule: Double check everything.
Rule #2: Do NOT overtighten anything, especially adjustment nuts, and valve cover gasket nuts..

In regards to the valve adjustment interval, I waited till 105k and there were few exhaust valves that were tight, one was very tight. I wish I would've done it earlier as I can do it myself. After changing the spark plugs and adjusting valves, the car was significantly faster and throttle response is much better.

If you are going to do it yourself, do it now and change the spark plugs as well. However, if you are going to pay someone, do it when MM asks, around 100-105k.

So, yeah, my first time I sheared a valve cover bolt. It was like $6 for a new one (thankfully it broke high enough I could get a vise grip on it) but the next day air because I needed the car ASAP was like an extra $40 LOL

 

[joekingcorvette]

If they are not noisy valves leave them alone. I just turned 100,000 miles on my Civic and never had them adjusted. The battery is something you have to decide on. I would run it until it stops however not everyone likes to do that. Sometimes you are better off changing the battery out when it gets older. Dealerships always want to take money out of your pocket and put it in theirs.

 

[Astro14]

An example:

My 1990 Toyota 4 Runner required a valve clearance check every 90,000 miles. They were good at 90. They were good at 180. At 270,000 miles, I had to adjust two exhaust valves.

Bucket and shim, by the way, is a complete pain. Special tools required, including a micrometer to measure the existing shim, and a bit of math to get the correct replacement shim to adjust to spec.