Using your block heater all year round?

[TheTanSedan]

Patman,

You have to go get s-e-r-i-o-u-s . . .

I, too have a well-worn copy of Bob Sikorskys DRIVE IT FOREVER (actually dates from around the 1978-1982 period; WELL worth having from a philosophical standpoint); and engine pre-warming is an interesting subject.

For some reason, I can't post links onto these posts, but I have about a half-dozen bookmarks on the subject. Search the TurboDieselRegister (TDR) via Google for good discussions (such as thread title, "Question for Arctic drivers")

Step One:

You want a WEBASTO or HYDRONIC gasoline-powered heater to install in the forward of the vehicle. Circulates coolant at predetermined temp, avoiding hot spots. (Also, instant heat and defrost ability as you get in). 24/7 timer set-up. Teaspoon of gas per hour.

Step Two:

You route the exhaust from the above through a sleeve encasing the oil pan.

Step Three:

An electric, stick-on pad set for both the trans pan and the differential.

Voila!

Get a THERMOCUBE automatic on/off plug at wall outlet receptacle that turns on Step Three heaters, and run plug wiring through to grille front.

Step Four

With a PRELUBER you'll have pressurized, hot oil throughout engine at start-up.

Overkill?

Made to order for this board!!

 

[Patman]

I didn't end up doing it year round, I found it too much of a pain to plug in, because I either had to keep opening and closing the hood twice a day to plug it in, or leave the plug dangling outside the hood on my old Firebird. That method scratched up my paint last winter.

With my Corvette I'd be in the same situation, there is no easy way to have the cord dangling out.

I think I'll be fine without using it as long as I run 0w30. It never gets below -10F here.

 

[sifan]

I installed my engine block heater (400W) on my '03 Toyota Echo with M1 5w30 oil and use it all year round. I always plug it in when the car is parked regardless rain or snow.

The Echo is equipped with a blue light, which will light up during engine startup. It will go off once the engine reaches 62F. When it is on, my AT will not shift from 3rd to 4th. I guess it is the way Toyota warms up the catalytic converter to reduce emission. I find diriving under the blue light being very fuel inefficient due to the high air/fuel mixture. In 32F without the use of engine block heater it take about 1 mile of driving to clear the blue light. With the block heater it takes at most 0.3 miles. In summer with temp around 80sF the blue light does not even come on with the use of block heater.

As others stated already the use of block heater reduces blow by, thus, keeping the oil cleaner. It also saves gas, and reduce engine wear. I find it beneficial to use the thickest and shortest extension cord (12 gauge/25 feet) in the winter on the block heater. Since I do not have a garage, I usually use a piece of duct tape to wrap around the connecters under rain/snow. Yes, it is a pain to plug it in on raining days, but, it worths it.

 

[yugrus]

I guess I'd try the same year round, but inside the garage... I know that might sound like a huge waste, but anyway.
I only wish that engineers would come up with better design for the plug. Dangling cords just don't look right to me, and the fact that you have to pop up the hood twice a day is embarrassing. Why don't they make the small lid for the plug in the bumper, the same way they hide a towing hook on many models

...

 

[sifan]

What is so embarassing?

I have two plugs dangling from the lower air dam below the front bumper: one for the engine block heater, and the other is an extension that runs into the interior of my car for an interior car heater, so, I do not need to scrap ice of the windshield in the winter.

Since I plug in my block heater all the time, the bright orange extension cord runing between my townhouse and car across the side walk always catches my neighbors' attention. They think I am charging an electric car. I caught one of them even walking around my car to see what kind of car it was.

 

[JIM361]

Pat
I believe that block heaters watt density ( watts per sq/in ) may be too high for the additives in the antifreeze. My owners manual says that use of the block heater above 20 deg F is not recommended. I also read that block heaters only last a few years with repeated use. So I setup a light dimmer (600 watt) to control my 400 watt block heater.
I also wired in a silicone heating pad (in parallel with the block heater) attached directly to the oil pan. This puts the heat right where it's needed at a power level that you choose for the outside temperature.
The heat blankets come in various sizes and watt densities. The ones with adhesive backing are good to 300 deg F. Got mine at www.McMaster Carr.com "Heat Blankets "
Jim

 

[seotaji]

quote:

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Why don't they make the small lid for the plug in the bumper, the same way they hide a towing hook on many models [I dont know] ...

---

They do. I know that the fords used in government motorpool (in the mountains) have the recepticle located in the lower part of the grille. All you have to do is plug in your extension cord.

It's this really nice black box taking up one of the little slots in the grille. You would never know it was there unless you looked hard. It looks stock.

Dunno where you get them, but maybe ford knows (or it's a govt requested item). You could take it and modify it for your own needs.

 

[RJCorazza]

I use my block heater when its gets in the mid to lower 30's. I like the thought of year round use, but I take enough abuse at work for using a block heater on a gas motor.
The dangling cord issue... Go to a boat store (USBoat) and buy an on board charging recepticle (male 3 prong 120v) and mount it on your air dam. Works great & is barely noticable.

 

[Cyprs]

I real concerned strarting up my Cummins diesel in -20C winter, I will plug diesel in for 18 hours earlier prior to starting but the oil is still stiff with my factory block heater. I should get a magnetic oil pan heater or hot patch?

Cyprs

 

[srivett]

If your block heater isn't getting things done you can add a second one or add an engine heater. My little 1.6l VW diesel has a block heater and engine heater. The engine heater is from philips temro and puts out 1000W. CT sells a 1500W engine heater that would be great for your truck. You hook it up between your block drain and your heater core. If done right it will circulate your coolant without the use of a pump. I don't think you should use two heaters at once in warmer temperatures. You'll probably burn your truck down and definately use a lot of electricity.

Using them is anticlimactic. I plug mine in for an hour before starting the car during the winter (-20 to -40C) and the car starts better than it does during the summer. If I don't use them it's a lot of fun trying to make the car idle and even start. You shouldn't need any more than a couple hours of plugging in so use a timer. My timer has a remote on it. After an hour or two all of my upper hoses are hot to the touch.

Steve

 

[Ross]

You may find this interesting. In some newer GM cars and trucks, the block heater won't turn on untill the outside temp is below 0 F!!! If you install and aftermarket block heater, it could throw a code!!

Here is a cut and past from the GM tech web site:

Owners of some 2005 V8 trucks and V6 cars with the factory optional engine coolant heater (also known as a block heater) may comment that the heater does not work unless the air temperature is very low. This is normal operation, intended to avoid setting a DTC P0116.

TIP: This operation is described in the owner’s manual.

The power cord has a built-in thermostat that allows operation only if the temperature of the surrounding air is at or below 0°F (-17°C). Also, the heating element has a low power rating to limit the amount of heat in generates.

TIP: The air temperature thermostat is part of the cord set, not the heater.

A DTC P0116 may set if the vehicle has an aftermarket engine block heater installed that is more powerful than the factory-installed one and/or that is not equipped with the thermostatic AC power cord.

Explanation of Rationality Check
The P0116 diagnostic (engine coolant temperature sensor rationality check) can fail if the indicated coolant temperature is too high at engine startup, after an extended time sitting without the engine running.

After a vehicle has been parked for a number of hours, the engine coolant temperature is typically very close to ambient air temperature. This is the definition of a cold start. After startup, OBD regulations require that the PCM look at the rate at which the coolant temperature sensor heats up, from a certain starting point. If the coolant temperature sensor does not heat up according to expectations, a DTC P0116 will set.

The new heater described above has been designed to keep the coolant temperature sensor operation outside the range that would cause a DTC to set.

 

[TheTanSedan]

BTT