Using Ramps to Change Oil

[VeeDubb]

I just bought some ramps for my car and am wondering if the oil will completely drain if only the front end is elevated by the ramps. I was told that putting all four wheels on ramps is difficult and dangerous. What do most of you do when using ramps?

Thanks in advance.

 

[eljefino]

Depends on where your pan drain is. My vehicles have all been oriented rearwards so being on ramps is actually an advantage.

Go practice with the ramps and take a look for yourself! It will take a few tries to get over the fear of "driving over the edge" of the front.

 

[JohnBrowning]

It really is not an isue to be worried about. If your drain plug was in the front of the pan it might be a problem but when was the last time you say a plug in the front? THe engines on most vechiles do not set plumb and level either. Often it improves drainage out of the pan.

 

[darryld13]

Be careful - most vehicles don't have enough clearance under the car to enable a car to drive up on 4 ramps simultaneously. Even if the ramps could fit under the body for rear wheels to roll forward, it is tough to assure all four ramps are lined up nice and straight with all four wheels. I use car jack stands when I need the rear wheels off the ground. Much easier to control.

As eljefino noted, I do encounter some fear of driving too far or falling off, mainly because my car has a manual transmission. I actually only drive partially up the ramp far enough to get under for the oil change. I use the emergency brake, leave the car in 1st gear and chock the rear wheels to keep the car from rolling backwards. If I need to get farther under, I still stop partially on the way up to verify that the car is still centered on the ramps and lined up right. It takes some practice to gain confidence.

With the way the oil pan is aligned, my Honda gets a complete drain even with my car partially up on the ramps - sort of like tipping a jug forward to get the last drops out.

[ May 02, 2004, 01:08 PM: Message edited by: darryld13 ]

 

[buster]

The drain plug in my car is towards the back so lifting the front is what you want. Corvettes, for some stupid reason, have them in the front so all four wheels have to come up. C6 has corrected this problem and it is now on the back.

 

[newtoncd8]

I see the original poster is "VeeDub".....not sure what kind of VW has has (or one at all), but on my Audi A4, the drain plug is at the front of the pan, vice the rear on every other car I have owned. So, with the car on the ramps, I don't have gravity on my side.

Basd upon that, I am using my pump from Griot's Garage to change the oil.

 

[labman]

Some manufacturers cringe at the thought of anybody except the dealer working on the car. I think most engines are designed to drain better on ramps. Can anybody say where the drain plug is on rear or midship engines? I never changed oil on one. I don't know that getting the last teaspoon of oil out is that important. I am sure it isn't in my truck because it has places that may retain a couple of quarts. That doesn't stop me from letting the oil drain far longer than any of the quickie places, and jouncing on the bumper to slosh a little more out.

I put a chock where rear wheel will hit it before I drive over the end of the ramp. Up until I got my 92 Grand AM GT, I always managed to wiggle under the car for oil and filter changes. Its bumper wouldn't even clear my old ramps. I made wooden ones that fit, and give me just enough room to get to the oil plug and filter.

On my Cavalier now, I access the oil filter element from the top standing up. Lucked in yesterday in my trip to the dog meeting in the big city. I found a Purolator L15436 for only $4 at a local small, discount chain. Pep boys were out of stock on their $5+ ones. I was able to pick up some $1.39 less rebate Pennzoil 5w30 there.

 

[Neil Womack]

If your driving a new Golf, Jetta or NB the plug faces the rear.

Once you have your front wheels up on ramps. Be very careful raising the back of the vehicle off the ground.

The vehicle may demonstrate a tendency to roll once the rear wheels are off the ground.

This could ruin your whole day if not the rest of your life.

When I need all four wheel off the ground I use four jack stands. However, oil changes only require ramps and rear wheel chocks.

Forgot to mention. I've been changing my own oil for 34 years. My only injury's have been self inflected. Knuckle scrapes from using the wrong wrench and a burn or two from failing to respect the exhaust system.

You may find changing your own oil gives you a very satisfying feeling. Or maybe thats just me.

[ May 02, 2004, 05:57 PM: Message edited by: Neil Womack ]

 

[Pablo]

Good questions and good comments.

I would say in most cases being on ramps doesn't harm complete oil drain. On my fleet it helps. In fact on the 850, I can't even get the oil drain pan underneath the car without ramps.

 

[jthorner]

I certainly would not try to put a vehicle up on four ramps simultaneously. On the majority of modern front engine vehicles, a slight upward tilt of the front of the car helps drainage as most drain plugs are now oriented towards the rear side of the motor.

John

 

[Chris B.]

I use 4 ramps with no problems. The way I do it is I drive up the 1st set and then use floor jacks to raise up the rear and slide the back ramps under the rear wheels. That way the car is up and still level.

 

[cheeks]

I use ramps and I feel it is the lesser of two evils: either trust Jiffy Lube (or even the reputable auto service shop I use for other things) to drain it ALL out, or use the ramps and do it myself.

Most driveways slope toward the street to drain stormwater away from your house. If yours does, point the front of the vehicle toward the street and drive up on the ramps from that direction...you will lessen the "ramp effect", which I consider to be minimal in the first place. Of course, be careful that your driveway does not overcompensate, thus draining the oil away from the drain plug.

I'm serious about not trusting my "reputable auto service shop" to drain all the oil out, even though I have used them for years to replace water pumps, starters, etc....and they have done a very good job for me. Several months ago the wife took the Suburban in and through a miscommunication they changed the oil, dumping out 5 quarts of Delo with 2500 miles on it. Their oil change? They 1) overfilled by about a quart, 2) failed to push the dipstick all the way back down into its tube, and 3) left the fill cap more than just a little loose. I kid you not. The cost? $42 for 6 quarts (should have been 5) of Exxon Superflow 10w30 and a filter that was probably OK but one I've never heard of.

[ May 02, 2004, 01:02 PM: Message edited by: cheeks ]

 

[DavoNF]

The ramps will also come in handy when you are changing out your radiator coolant. Bit of a tilt helps to burp it.

Dave

 

[rg144]

I didn't like ramps for oil changes - it takes longer to setup (versus a small 2 ton hydraulic jack to get just enough clearance); then it always takes me a couple of tries to get up the ramp; and then the catch drain is so far away from the pan that it splatters as it hits the screen mesh that keeps the oil plug out or else the wind will blow the flow off course (so you will have to prop your jug to be closer to the pan).

 

[Shannow]

quote:

---

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
but when was the last time you say a plug in the front?

---

6 weeks ago on my Navara !!

On first useage, it sends a jet of red hot oil straight at you, before it subsides and decides to head for the drain pan.

At least it will NEVER get knocked off by a rock

 

[VeeDubb]

Great advice everybody! I changed the oil yesterday in my wife's Volvo and the drain plug is indeed in the back. This is the best this car has ever drained because it took 5.7 quarts to get it to the top of the dipstick whereas in the past when I have supplied 5.5 to my mechanic, it is slightly above full.

Curtis,
Thanks for the insight on the Audi engine. My passat has the Audi 1.8T so this info will come in handy in the future. I may just let the dealer continue to do the oil changes because the VW is PITA to reach the filter and pull off the belly pan.

Pablo,
Since you own an 850, I am wondering if we can use copper crush washers on the drain plug. I didn't get one with my filter (which was mailed ordered) and went to autozone to pick one up. They gave me a copper one and now that I am thinking about it, maybe I shouldn't have used it. The OEM crush is aluminium, I believe.

 

[Pablo]

VeeDubb - Always use an Aluminum washer with an Al pan. I doubt it's a huge issue with a 3K change but I have heard some horror stories on the brickboard.com about bound up plugs....mostly over 5K, over tightened, etc. (I just buy 10 or more, and have some on hand...)

PS My 850 takes almost 7 qts???

 

[VeeDubb]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Pablo:
VeeDubb - Always use an Aluminum washer with an Al pan. I doubt it's a huge issue with a 3K change but I have heard some horror stories on the brickboard.com about bound up plugs....mostly over 5K, over tightened, etc. (I just buy 10 or more, and have some on hand...)

PS My 850 takes almost 7 qts???

---

Thanks Pablo.
I may just replace the copper one with an aluminum one for a piece of mind. It's a pain cause I'll have to drain the oil out and refill it but at least I won't be worrying about it for the next 5k miles.

Weird that yours takes 7 quarts. What year is it? Ours is a 1995 850 turbo, with the 5 cylinder engine. Owner's manual says 5.6 quarts if oil cooler not drained and 6 quarts if drained. But there does seem to be a lot of capacity between the "min" and "max" mark, unlike my VW where 1/4 quart can put you from the hash mark to way over the max.

 

[JohnnyO]

I've used ramps for 25 years. A little trickier getting a stick car up them. I think it's safer to have the car all the way up so the wheels sit in the dips at the top. Automatic, just one foot on the gas and one on (or near) the brake, then I put it in Neutral to see if it settles in the dips. Some cars I really have to kick the ramps under the plastic valences, newer cars seem to have them really low. My Ranger 4x4 I don't have to do anything except roll under with a creeper.

 

[T-Keith]

What's wrong the the old jack? Ramps + FWD + rain/snow = VERY dangerous.

-T