using MMO to thin 20w 50 to 10 w 40

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Here's what I don't understand: when someone asks about adding a pint of MMO to oil, many people agree that it will thin his oil. But, when someone asks about adding a pint of super-thick-when-cold ARX to his oil and worries about his oil thickening in cold temps, everyone rushes to say things like "it's too small of an amount to have an effect" and "at this ratio the ARX takes on the viscosity of the host oil".

How does it work one way, but not the other?
If I understand it correctly, the "thick" component in Auto-Rx pretty much exits stage right on metal surfaces forming a film. Another component is a friction modifier.

I don't know of too many UOA done on a cleaning cycle. Here's one with 2 bottles of the stuff with a 10w-40 and fuel dilution

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1036991

Here's one with a 5w30

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post250715

Here's a 5w30 (the math reads like 10.x Cst
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post239253


21.gif
 
Thanks Gary Below is test data done by Dyson Oil Analysis I don,t think some of you have seen this. Testing is not only expensive
it has to be credible. Between AMI and Dyson Oil Analysis I think we met that criteria.


American Motorcycle Institute (AMI )Test Results

Auto-Rx safe to use with wet clutch
Test of Cycle-Rx (Auto-Rx) in a Harley Davidson Motorcycle
Test Location: American Motorcycle Institute, Daytona Beach, Florida
Oil Analysis, Comments and Conclusion Provided by Dyson Analysis


Vehicle


2002 Harley Davidson RoadKing

Engine


Stock 88 CID Twin Cam

Start Mileage


10,770

End Mileage


12,500

Oil/Filters


Harley 20-50w; stock oil filters

Comments


Seemingly well maintained twin cam engine with a normal oil analysis signature before Auto-Rx.
Test Stats Provided by AMI

110 psi both cylinders (mileage: 10,770)

160 psi both cylinders (mileage: 12,500)
Note: 2 gauges were used to confirm 'after' results
Heads pulled at 12,500 miles

Test Duration: One month, 1730 miles

@2000 miles on fresh oil, NO Auto-Rx

@1030 miles after 12 ounces Auto-Rx added ("Cleaning Phase")

@700 miles AFTER fresh oil change with only residual cleaning effect of Auto-Rx ("Rinse Phase")
Elemental Analysis Tests Provided by Dyson Analysis
Oil Samples 1,2,3 Levels in ppm

Element


1


2


3


Comment

Aluminum


6


3


3


Normal trend and no increase in wear during or after cleaning

Calcium


1263


1129


2052


Normal oil add levels

Chromium


4


1


1


Significant decrease in ring and chrome coating wear during and after Auto-Rx cleaning

Copper


23


10


4


MAJOR decrease in bushing and bearing wear AFTER RX cleaning

Iron


25


7


6


MAJOR decrease in cylinder and cam wear

Lead


9


0


8


During cleaning lead bearing wear dropped to NIL, lead wear is a bit elevated by a dirt leak probably at the air filter or intake area. Auto-Rx while installed stopped the bearing wear .

Magnesium


1092


563


741


Normal oil additive

Molybdenum


3


1


14


Ring coating, wear dropped with Auto-Rx, spike of 14 ppm is oil or assembly lube add from post teardown.

Phosphorus


1240


804


760


Normal oil additives

Potassium


4


8


0


Normal oil additive and fuel add residuals, post Auto-Rx residuals are cleaned

Silicon


13


11


14


Ingested dirt from air filter or intake , lead wear is being elevated by this but the Auto-RX treatment helped slow the wear rates. Air filter and ANY dirt leaks on engine need to be corrected.

Sodium


5


6


2


Normal oil adds and environmental contamination

Tin


0


0


3


Bearing overlay and assembly lube residuals, note Auto-RX contributed no wear during cleaning phase. Spike in tin is also related to dirt ingression in rinse phase.

Zinc


1032


940


1813


Normal oil additive

Soot/Solids


13


0


12


Note MAJOR drop in solids production during cleaning phase , level returns to normal during rinse phase.

Oxidation


29%


38.5%


45.5%


Elevated trend indicates Auto-RX cleaning action is ongoing and active, oil is NOT oxidizing but the cleaning of deposits is.

Nitration


25%


31%


16%


A good measure of combustion efficiency and high levels of Nitration contribute to and enable varnish formation. Post Auto-Rx drop in Nitration means the cylinder is making much improved power, confirmed by correlating compression checks of up to 50 PSI increase.

Sulfur


26


0


35


Fuel and oil sulfur residuals, note the improved ring seal with Auto-Rx in cleaning phase.

Water


0


0


0
None through all three tests

Coolant


0


0


0


None through all three tests

Fuel Dilution


0


0


0


None through all three tests

Viscosity @ 100C in cSt


16.2


8.7


16.6


Test 1 shows a normal shear trend for the oil and indicating SAE 40w, test 2 shows a oil that is SAE 20w grade and probably sheared from SAE 40w, test 3 is normal, solid SAE 50w as designed, in other words a clean engine doesn’t shear a average oil as easy.

Total Base Number (TBN)


9.5


8.0


10.0


Normal reserve alkalinity throughout test for the host motor oils. Auto-Rx does not harm the motor oil while cleaning.
Conclusions:
Relatively new HD engine on HD oil. Maintained by professionals of AMI. Saw impressive gains in performance and efficiency while dropping key wear areas in spite of an air or dirt ingression leak that persists throughout test.

Our conclusion is that Auto-Rx should be used in all Harley Davidson engines at least every 5,000 miles or annually. The Auto-RX treatment compensates for the lack of oil quality and real world dirt and cleanliness issues that all bikes will experience.

Dyson Analysis
3679 CR 2184
Greenville, TX 75402
903 883 4661
[email protected]



Copyright 2004 Cycle-Rx®
Website Powered by: Gordon & Ramsey Graphics
 
Last edited:
For the record: I have ARX in an engine right now, going into the winter, in SD. We commonly see temps WELL below zero here. I had definite reservations about using it this time of year, but we had just purchased a vehicle w/ unknown service history, and I wanted to run an ARX clean/rinse before I switched to my usual synthetic oil.

To me, it's not about the viscosity that would show up on UOA...I'm sure the ARX is quite thin at those temps. What worries me is the cold viscosity. Though I know it's not practical to test, I would love to see how much ARX affects cold pour point.

The point I was trying to make is that if the addition of a thin additive affects oil viscosity, then the addition of a thick additive should affect it, too.
 
Auto-Rx does not have any impact on your oil viscosity.It is not an additive to improve or alter your host oil. It is a metal cleaner which uses your oil as a carrier only and it takes on the characteristics of your host oil. So if your oil can flow in SD so can Auto-Rx.

Please go to www. Auto-Rx.com and get the facts from our website or the FAQ.

We have customers using Auto-Rx in Northern Alaska as well as Canada.
 
That was alot of good data guys, thanks for the effort. Especially Frank's post; that data illustrates it's actions very well. Like zrxkawboy, I was curious about how it effects cold pour point since it is known to be thick at low temps. I think it's safe to assume, however, that at most it might only move a borderline oil up from say a 5w to 10w or 0w to 5w, which shouldn't make much difference. While I understand it's intention is not to alter the host oil it only makes sense that a slight alteration could be a side effect.

More to the original point of the post, I think MMO might have the opposite effect - thinning a borderline oil to the upper end of the next lower grade, for instance it might make GC into a solid 30wt instead of almost a 40.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
MMO is by itself is a 5 grade oil. I have no clue what viscosity it will change your current fill to. To run a pint for 1000 miles isn't going to hurt anything especially during the colder times of the year. I have done it many times w/o issue, and it will do some cleaning. Years ago I did run it full OCI's w/o issue, I no longer do that.

Before I started using A-Rx I would run about a pint of MMO for the last 500 or so miles of the OCI.

Frank D


Question from a MMO user to MMO company

Well, I live up in Canada… and for the winters, I use 5w30 oil, and 10w30 oil in summer.

I’m driving a 1988 Toyota Corolla, with about 269, 000k on it

I am very interested in using MMO with my next oil change, but I have a few questions.

1. Should I still use 5w30 oil in the winter months? Or will it end up being too thin? (AKA, use 10w30 all year?)

and
2. I was thinking of using a ‘high millage’ oil. Will this type of oil interfere with MMO in any way?? And do you recommend I use high millage oil in the first place?? Or will MMO and normal oil be enough?

Thank you for you time
-Joseph


Answer from MMO director

The viscosity of Marvel Mystery Oil is approximtely a straight 5W oil. Therefore, mixing it with a 5W30 oil will not appreciably change the viscosity of the motor oil. It will only slightly lower the viscosity of the 10W30 oil. Therefore, you can continue to use the 5W30 in the winter and the 10W30 in the summer.

Secondly, usually “hgh mileage oil” contains a little more viscosity improver than regular motor oil to help prevent oil thinning and oil leaks. It also contains more lubricity additives to help prevent metal-to-metal contact. While Marvel Mystery Oil is compatible with these “high mileage” oils, using Marvel Mystery Oil and your regular motor oil should enough to prevent metal-to-metal contact and to prevent oil leakage.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Well, that makes me feel better about using MMO. Doesn't look like it turns your oil into deadly water after all.


+1. You'd think if it were really as bad as a lot of people say it is after 80 or so years, legal action would have shut them down by now.

Frank D
 
Inversely, if 1 quart of MMO doesn't bother you, what does that say about 12 or less ounces of something else.....?
 
I have been using MMO for over 15 years in all my vehicles in both the engine, transmission and fuel, with absolutely no problems. An old man in his 80s told me about it and showed me his car's engine (through the oil fill hole) and it looked like the engine had never been run. I forgot the type of car but it was an old panel station wagon type car many years ago.

Just recently, I stopped using MMO in my engine and added Auto-RX to see if I notice any difference. If you have questions about MMO, go here.


http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/forums/viewforum/2/
 
Last edited:
Depends on the oil capacity of the engine. I use 1/2 quart in the wife's civic because it calls for a 4 quart capacity. My Tundra calls for 5.5 quarts and I run 1 quart of MMO in it. I run it for 3K-5K depends on the OCI I am doing.
 
When I started using it in the 1970's I would run a full qt for the entire OCI which at the time was about 3000 miles. I would use it in the gas too, and always in my inverse oiler. I stopped using it the oil for a long time for no real reason.

Then I started using it before an OC, up until a few months ago. I was adding about a pint 500 or so miles before an OC, then stopped to give A-Rx a try. I will probably always have it on hand, in my book its a product that stood the test of time.

Frank D
 
I have heard so many people say they add it right before an oil change, but that is pretty much useless. A question answered by the marketing director, Rich Kelly from MMO, is as follows.

Question from a MMO user

when I add MMO to my crankcase with an oil change should I be changing the oil after a few miles or can i keep it in till the next oil change at 3000 miles.


Answer from MMO:

When using Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase, we recommend adding it at each and every oil change and keeping it in the crankcase until the next oil change. It is not designed to be a quick flush but a true enhancement to the motor oil.


I am going through an ARX clean/rinse cycle in my Tundra now to see if I notice any difference in it. I just began the rinse cycle yesterday.

As you said, MMO has proved to be a very good product to me. I have used it in everything from cars and trucks, to weed eaters and blowers. I have never had MMO cause any type of problem in any engine/fuel system I have put it in. It's good stuff.
 
Quote:
Answer from MMO:

When using Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase, we recommend adding it at each and every oil change and keeping it in the crankcase until the next oil change. It is not designed to be a quick flush but a true enhancement to the motor oil.

Yikes!!
 
I know they want it to be used for the complete OCI, and did that in the past. I have no idea why I stopped using it that way? Joining BITOG sort of sealed the deal, and I think that might be the subconscious reason for using it for shorter than suggested????????????????? I'm confused?????????????

I do use it in my mower, snow blower, power washer, weed whacker, and chainsaws.

Who knows after the A-Rx treatment is done, I might start using it for the full OCI :) Now that thin is in MMO might have been ahead of the times and technology..............................
27.gif



Frank D
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Now that thin is in MMO might have been ahead of the times and technology

Frank D


lol yea really........I know some people don't like to use it the hole OCI, but the way I look at it is, if it destroyed engines and it is as bad for the oil and engine as some people make it seem to be, then MMO would have so many BBB and consumer report complaints against the company. To date, I have not seen one lawsuit filed against MMO. Just my opinion.
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Quote:
Answer from MMO:

When using Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase, we recommend adding it at each and every oil change and keeping it in the crankcase until the next oil change. It is not designed to be a quick flush but a true enhancement to the motor oil.

Yikes!!


Tempest, I know you are very anti MMO from our prior debates. All I'm saying and have been saying all along, if MMO is so bad then how and why would it be on the market as long as it has. Also, just look at some testimonials from long time users.....



"I have been using MMO in every vehicle I've own since 1996. My first vehicle was a 90 Toyota PU. I purchased this truck with 89,000 miles on it and at 230,000 the dreaded timing chain guides wore out. A friend of mine & I pulled off the head to replace the timing chain & guides & were very surprised to see just how clean the engine was. I swear by this product, suggest it's use, I have no regrets!!! MMO thanks for an excellent product. Brant -- Brant "

"I have a 1980 ford f-100 300-six 230,000 miles/1990 Bronco II 180,000 miles/2001 mazda miata 105,000 miles. I purchased these vehicles new MMO has worked wonders for them. Great stuff! -- thor"

"i've ben using mystery oil since '64 in all my gas powered "stuff"..add to oil/and gas..have never had a oil related problem..valves/rings/carb/injectors..the greatest since sliced bread..goatman -- goatman"

"I still own the Ford F-150 pickup that I bought back in 1986 and have used a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the motor every time I've changed the oil. The 300cid straight six engine now has 330,000 miles on it and doesn't smoke or leak and starts up first time every time. I also use Mystery Oil in the gas tank to fight carbon build up and it seems to work. I enjoy my driving my pickup everyday and plan on it rolling the 500,000 mile mark. Thanks for listening. -- Stacy"

"Not a question, just some praise! I have a 94 GMC Sonoma with 418,000 plus miles that I have used marvel mystery oil in from day one. Engine still running great, still getting 23 to 25 mpg, does not burn oil; tune-ups are at every 150,000 miles and no minor or major engine work. I estimate that as a work truck, I've hauled over 400,000 lbs of cargo.
Also use Marvel in everything from my boats to mowers without any engine problems. Thanks! -- John"

"I'll also give you more positives on Marvel.......I was introduced to Marvel in 1981 by a relative from MN. He was admiring my new 1981 Ford P/U and asked what steps I was taking to break it in properly. I told him I varied my speed and drove as the owner's manual suggested. He asked if I were using a friction reducing compound in the engine, as he used one in all of his vehicles and always received a premium when he traded them in, with over 200,000 miles on them because the engine was so "tight and healthy". I said all you're driving is country roads and highways, with no stop and start city driving, so that was probably the reason his engines were so "tight and healthy". He insisted in was the additive he used and that I should use it in my new truck. I told him the owner's manual said not to use any additive until after 4,000 miles on the odometer. He then posed the question "would you like the cylinders oil honed, or metal against metal?" I asked him what this "stuff" was and he said Marvel Mystery Oil. I began using it that day in the fuel and never really noticed any difference, but kept using it because "Bob knew what he was talking about", according to his wife, my Mom's cousin. After a couple of years, my wife and I went to Yosemite National Park. We left with 1/2 front tank and a full rear tank of gasoline. When I tanked up outside the park, on our way home, I noticed I didn't bring any Marvel with me, so I just left it on the front tank, without the Marvel. After about driving 20 miles, I noticed the temperature gauge was in the Normal range, but higher than I had ever seen it, so I switched to my rear tank, which contained Marvel and after about another 20 miles, the gauge was back down to where it always registered when driving.

My Ford Tech used to hunt me down in the waiting area of the dealership, while I was waiting for my '81 Ford F150 302 V8 gasoline engine truck to be serviced, to ask me if I REALLY wanted to change my spark plugs, because they looked "so clean". I explained that they had 30,000 miles on them and asked if they would go another 30,000, to which he replied "probably not".......the Service Manager asked me what I was doing to keep a 302 V8 timing chain going 130,000 miles plus with no trouble. I told him I used Marvel in every tank of gasoline and replaced one quart of oil with one quart of Marvel at each oil change.
--Eric"

"Many yr's ago an old timer, built cop car engines for the Syracuse, NY PD told me about MMO. This was probably 30-40 yr's ago. To this day I use a qt at every oil change in every vehicle I have owned and to this day I have never had an engine component failure. No clattering after 100,000 + miles, no oil burning, just smooth running motors. This stuff is great. And as long as I can find it (Wal-Mart) I will use it. I also tell everyone about it. My father-in-law used it in plane engines during WW2. He swore by it too. -- Thomas Reagan"

Those are just a few of the thousands of posts on the internet about MMO. I guess I'll have to stop using MMO from what the people say about it on this site............. after all, I don't want my engine to blow up or something.
LOL.gif
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Well, that makes me feel better about using MMO. Doesn't look like it turns your oil into deadly water after all.


+1. You'd think if it were really as bad as a lot of people say it is after 80 or so years, legal action would have shut them down by now.

Frank D


I've noticed that a lot of post will flame a product without offering anything to back it up. For example, "it might have been a good product 50 years ago...", "in today's engines", "it will break your engine",... People seem to fail to realize that an internal combustion engine built years ago works on the same principle as an internal combustion engine built a year ago.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom