Guys, I bought the cheapest oil I could get in my country and it's rated as API 30/40 SC/CC and my car is a 2006 model. Now the only plan I have for the oil is to run it in the car at idle for 10 minutes with the engine oil flush additive and then take out. Is this going to cause any damage I may regret later. I have looked high and low but no one seems to have done this experiment. Also flushing oil is not available in my country and yes I am running a API-SN oil currently I will be adding flush to it too, then new filter and the el cheapo oil for another flush session and then the new oil. Car's done 200k KM's.
Using API SC/CC oil as flushing oil
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If it's anything like some of the cheap, ancient API swill often found in the ghettos of the USA, it might have contaminants in it along with a viscosity that doesn't match what is labeled.
Not heard of an SAE 30/40 oil before and what exactly do you mean by SC/CC ??
What are you trying to fix? Is the motor sludged?
Originally Posted By: deltree
Guys, I bought the cheapest oil I could get in my country and it's rated as API 30/40 SC/CC and my car is a 2006 model. Now the only plan I have for the oil is to run it in the car at idle for 10 minutes with the engine oil flush additive and then take out. Is this going to cause any damage I may regret later. I have looked high and low but no one seems to have done this experiment. Also flushing oil is not available in my country and yes I am running a API-SN oil currently I will be adding flush to it too, then new filter and the el cheapo oil for another flush session and then the new oil. Car's done 200k KM's.
What exactly are you attempting to flush out of the engine?
Guys, I bought the cheapest oil I could get in my country and it's rated as API 30/40 SC/CC and my car is a 2006 model. Now the only plan I have for the oil is to run it in the car at idle for 10 minutes with the engine oil flush additive and then take out. Is this going to cause any damage I may regret later. I have looked high and low but no one seems to have done this experiment. Also flushing oil is not available in my country and yes I am running a API-SN oil currently I will be adding flush to it too, then new filter and the el cheapo oil for another flush session and then the new oil. Car's done 200k KM's.
What exactly are you attempting to flush out of the engine?
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
and what exactly do you mean by SC/CC ??
Its an API rating
and what exactly do you mean by SC/CC ??
Its an API rating
SC/CC is a very outdated spec, can you find any info online on that particular oil?
Some of these oils don't meet any standard, and may be harmful to your car. Here is an example of an SC rated oil that doesn't meet any kind of performance standard:
http://www.pqiamerica.com/bullseye7-2011.htm
Although PQIA focuses on oils sold in the USA, oils that claim to meet outdated API specifications can be found in many different countries.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/bullseye7-2011.htm
Although PQIA focuses on oils sold in the USA, oils that claim to meet outdated API specifications can be found in many different countries.
Best to skip the flush, unless there's some really good reason for it that you haven't told us. At least in the US, stuff sold as meeting SC nowadays often is of questionable quality.
Way back when the API's S_ and C_ ratings first came out, circa 1970, S_ ratings below SE were already obsolete. (SE replaced the earlier MS designation for respectable engine oil, as best I can recall.)
Way back when the API's S_ and C_ ratings first came out, circa 1970, S_ ratings below SE were already obsolete. (SE replaced the earlier MS designation for respectable engine oil, as best I can recall.)
Chances are that your SC/CC oil is a Group I (full mineral oil) with about 2 to 3% of a basic additive pack in it. If you've run your SN oil out to a longish OCI, then it's going to contain some stuff that it's best not to leave in the engine so yes, you go right ahead and run the flush for about 10 - 30 minutes, drain it then dump it. The residual flushing oil you leave in the engine won't be great quality but it will probably be better than the used oil you take out so the net effect will be positive. If you want to be truly thorough, you might want to flush with the SN oil and put in say a third of a sump full. As long as the engine starts, it will be fine for 10 minutes. It's going to cost more this way but you will start off your OCI with an engine full of kosher SN oil.
PS - It once ran an engine test where I had to swap out the engine oil half way through the test. Just by pure chance the first all was all Calcium and the second oil was all Magnesium. I was quite surprised by how much Calcium was carried over. I back calculated that about 20% of the old oil remained in the engine after draining, so yes, if you feel like flushing, go right ahead...
PS - It once ran an engine test where I had to swap out the engine oil half way through the test. Just by pure chance the first all was all Calcium and the second oil was all Magnesium. I was quite surprised by how much Calcium was carried over. I back calculated that about 20% of the old oil remained in the engine after draining, so yes, if you feel like flushing, go right ahead...
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Just change the old oil when hot and replace it with a good quality oil. Skip the flush and don't waste oil. Cheap oil or not.
the outdated oil is a waste wether it stays in the bottle or not.
The OP is from The Punjab so he'll be running on Indian fuel. His problems are different to your problems and different rules apply. I once did a diesel field trial in Srinagar. The diesel fuel was literally black; like very thin residual fuel oil. I remember opening up a fuel filter from a bus we are testing. The casing was chock full of black gunk. Your engines don't have to contend with bad fuel so flushing can be the sensible option.
You'd be better off running 2 quarts of name brand oil and your flush additive. The pickup screen is down low and you'll have adequate pressure.
Then from here on out if you feel you need a flush, do it with your 75% used-up oil just before a change. Then your filter that's already had its big pores "filled in" and is therefore more efficient will do its job quite well.
Then from here on out if you feel you need a flush, do it with your 75% used-up oil just before a change. Then your filter that's already had its big pores "filled in" and is therefore more efficient will do its job quite well.
Idling with any reasonable motor oil for say 20 minutes will not hurt anything. People have idled on pure ATF and kerosene and the engines survive. I wouldn't do diesel or kerosene, as it'll strip many surfaces. But the SC won't hurt anything if there is little load. 20 minutes at say 750 RPM might equal a drive to the end of the block or there abouts.
But, when done, I'd definitely drain it all and the flushing agent and loose the filter for sure. Fill it all up with new proper oil. Prefill the filter if you can so that the galleries are flowing modern oil as soon as possible and then drive it
But, when done, I'd definitely drain it all and the flushing agent and loose the filter for sure. Fill it all up with new proper oil. Prefill the filter if you can so that the galleries are flowing modern oil as soon as possible and then drive it
Why do you want to do this?
Did you have some sort of engine problem that would have caused a rapid accumulation of deposits in the engine, like coolant leaking into the oil?
If not and if you've always run quality oils on reasonable drain intervals, then I think you can skip this step.
The oil you propose to use might be an authentic API SC oil in that it might really meet that long obsolete spec. It might also be real garbage.
One again, why do you want to do this?
If you must do it, you should at least use a decent 15w40 HDEO. Those are usually pretty cheap and you won't need a full sump anyway.
Did you have some sort of engine problem that would have caused a rapid accumulation of deposits in the engine, like coolant leaking into the oil?
If not and if you've always run quality oils on reasonable drain intervals, then I think you can skip this step.
The oil you propose to use might be an authentic API SC oil in that it might really meet that long obsolete spec. It might also be real garbage.
One again, why do you want to do this?
If you must do it, you should at least use a decent 15w40 HDEO. Those are usually pretty cheap and you won't need a full sump anyway.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Why do you want to do this?
Did you have some sort of engine problem that would have caused a rapid accumulation of deposits in the engine, like coolant leaking into the oil?
If not and if you've always run quality oils on reasonable drain intervals, then I think you can skip this step.
The oil you propose to use might be an authentic API SC oil in that it might really meet that long obsolete spec. It might also be real garbage.
One again, why do you want to do this?
If you must do it, you should at least use a decent 15w40 HDEO. Those are usually pretty cheap and you won't need a full sump anyway.
When I got the car it had done nearly 40k km's on bad oil mostly fake ones. I sorted the issue out by changing the oil in frequent intervals with genuine oils. But realized once I got the valve cover removed that it was all sheer black inside due to the abuse it had suffered. Naturally I want to reverse as much of it as possible, so opt for flushing agent in the oil before an oil change. This time I thought why not try flushing agent in current oil, remove replace with new filter and cheap oil+flushing agent, remove oil and replace oil filter before adding new oil. It seems 10 mins idling should be enough. Thank you guys for your responses
Why do you want to do this?
Did you have some sort of engine problem that would have caused a rapid accumulation of deposits in the engine, like coolant leaking into the oil?
If not and if you've always run quality oils on reasonable drain intervals, then I think you can skip this step.
The oil you propose to use might be an authentic API SC oil in that it might really meet that long obsolete spec. It might also be real garbage.
One again, why do you want to do this?
If you must do it, you should at least use a decent 15w40 HDEO. Those are usually pretty cheap and you won't need a full sump anyway.
When I got the car it had done nearly 40k km's on bad oil mostly fake ones. I sorted the issue out by changing the oil in frequent intervals with genuine oils. But realized once I got the valve cover removed that it was all sheer black inside due to the abuse it had suffered. Naturally I want to reverse as much of it as possible, so opt for flushing agent in the oil before an oil change. This time I thought why not try flushing agent in current oil, remove replace with new filter and cheap oil+flushing agent, remove oil and replace oil filter before adding new oil. It seems 10 mins idling should be enough. Thank you guys for your responses
Would love to see a couple pictures (front and back) of the SC/CC oil you're talking about here!
And under the valve cover
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