Used "Luxury" Crossovers. RX300/330 vs XC90?

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Originally Posted By: mdocod
No doubt they make great cars, thus, the remarkable resale value.

Just to make sure though, you're saying you'd take the RX with ~50,000 more miles or ~$5000 higher cost over the XC90. The Lexus is that much better?

Regards,
Eric


Yes.

I'd easily take the RX with 50k more miles. There is a reason they have held their value better.
 
If you find an RX300, see if the engine has VVTI. If it doesn't, you have a non-interference engine, and don't have much to worry about if the timing belt breaks. If it does have VVTi, and the belt breaks, it gets very expensive to repair. My dad saw this happen to a friend with an ES300.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
If you find an RX300, see if the engine has VVTI. If it doesn't, you have a non-interference engine, and don't have much to worry about if the timing belt breaks. If it does have VVTi, and the belt breaks, it gets very expensive to repair. My dad saw this happen to a friend with an ES300.

All RX300's have VVT-I, thus they all have interference engines.
 
Originally Posted By: mdocod
Originally Posted By: linksep
Avoid the Volvo XC-90. My dad had one and I think he put tires on it about every 30K miles.


I'd be curious to know what rim size that was. I'm looking for an early model with the small 16" rims. These were available with 17" and 18" rims, and in later years even larger. Sporty low profile tires don't belong on a 4600lb SUV, they will wear fast and provide poorer traction when it actually counts. That shouldn't "surprise" anyone.


I think the Volvo had 17's but it could possibly have been 18's.

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When the Volvo needed a new rear-diff around 120K miles (quoted something like $4,200 from the dealer)


The only reason to have a dealer quote a job on a car out of warranty is to find out how much you saved doing it yourself or having it done elsewhere.

I'd be curious to know more about that failed rear diff though, as I was under the impression that the rear diffs in these haldex systems don't see a whole lot of the load unless frequently used in poor traction or if the car is flogged a lot.


Well I looked into doing the job myself and I think the lowest price I found on the assembly (new or reman) was maybe $1200. Even at $3k cheaper he started thinking about paying me and warranty (I'm not a shop that can absorb redoing a huge job like that "under warranty"). It was a couple years ago and I don't even know if I ever knew the exact failed part(s), but it was a LOUD groan on the highway. At parking lot speeds (trade-in buyer going for a spin around the lot) it wasn't noticeable at all.

As for being "flogged", well if you asked the Volvo it would tell you he really flogged it, but to me pulling a 17.5' boat or 2-place snowmobile trailer or 5x8 utility trailer full of leaves for a combined total towing distance of maybe 150 miles a year isn't flogging a V8 SUV with a 5K tow rating. The main point though is: in 40+ years of driving, this particular 2005 Volvo was the first vehicle he ever owned that needed a new rear-end.

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he traded it on a new BMW X5 and couldn't be happier....


Many early X5's and XC90's run the same size rubber on the same size rims, and they both weigh about the same (~4600lbs). Assuming both vehicles are properly aligned and driven the same with the same tires, they are both going to chew through tires at a similar rate.


Properly aligned doesn't mean much if the "proper" specs as well as steering/suspension geometries are different between manufacturers (I can't say how different BMW and Volvo are RE suspension/alignment specs because I don't know). I know he had the Volvo aligned multiple times, but the thing ate front tires for breakfast. Not my cars so I can't really tell you much more than that, except that he also had a computer die (don't recall if it was ECM, PCM, BCM, etc.) and that cost well over $1,000 and lots of hassle.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: mdocod
No doubt they make great cars, thus, the remarkable resale value.

Just to make sure though, you're saying you'd take the RX with ~50,000 more miles or ~$5000 higher cost over the XC90. The Lexus is that much better?

Regards,
Eric


Yes.

I'd easily take the RX with 50k more miles. There is a reason they have held their value better.


+1
If you're not towing anything, a lifted Camry Wagon with leather (AKA Lexus RX3xx) is absolutely miles ahead of the pack for reliability and maintenance costs.
 
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Originally Posted By: mdocod
I have heard it said in many places around the interwebs, that the 2.5L T5 is one of the more reliable turbo implementations out there. No doubt, a turbo comes with more things to fail. If I lived at sea level I wouldn't even consider one. At 6000-12000 ft elevation, a turbo makes more sense. Though, in this case it's more of a band-aid to an undersized engine that will manage to be competitive due to the elevation, rather than providing any power benefit. Perspective perspective.

My 98 V70 T5 has a 2.3L turbo motor, with about 205kmi. and it's been very reliable. So has the transmission. Still on the same turbo too.

It looks you've done your homework on XC90's and DIY repairs. Avoiding the T6 is smart. Some years had transmission problems and electrical issues. My T5 isn't AWD, so I don't know about their Haldex system. There is an XC90 forum or two.

Having a turbo in the mountains is FUN.
 
Oddly enough....

We wound up finding a 2005 maroon XC70 AWD with 95K miles in great shape with full service records from a volvo dealer (38 pages worth). All of the suspension bushings and common turbo "piping" and PCV system stuff has already been replaced, as well as the timing belt and water pump. I actually looked over the car very thoroughly and was seeing lots of new looking rubber components with volvo names on them, so I figured some work had to have been done by a dealer, and the service records agree. The car has never missed an oil change and "of course" was traded in by a little old lady, (hey, anything is possible right, lol).

Originally my wife did not like the look of these, but once she saw it in the dark red with an interior in great shape that opinion changed. Getting a whiff of that turbo torque band in proper running order also seems to have had a much more profound effect on us that I anticipated. The B5254T2 at this elevation is stunningly powerful and has almost no turbo lag whatsoever. It drives like a V8 luxery car in terms of that "big engine" feel at this elevation.

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Thanks so much to everyone for sharing thoughts. We are excited about the new car!! .... Now, to decide what sort of diet I'm going to be putting it on. Hmmm....
 
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Congratulations! But 38 pages in 70K miles? How many pages would it require for the next 70K miles of running?
 
Vikas,

If you itemized your own car care in the same manner that this has been, and only fit up to ~5 "services" per page you'd probably rack up several pages a year worth of routine fluid level checks/top-ups, tire pressure checks, etc.

The 7500 mile services each take up 2 pages, (total of 9 steps). In-between services take up 3 pages (12 steps). Then there are more at 30K and 60K, and from 60K on up the list jumps to 3-4 pages per visit as the routine inspection begins for drive-line and suspension parts at each visit.

90% of that 38 pages is scheduled maintenance, most of which is typical stuff like checking wiper blades or topping up washer fluid, made to look more professional by taking up more paper space.

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Sledddriver,

Yea we actually looked at some older XC70's with the B5244T. If we had found one in better shape we may have gone that route. It is amazing though the difference in perceived "power" on the newer engine. Sometimes paper differences don't tell the whole story.
 
Variable valve timing, perhaps? I don't have that. Lower boost turbo makes more power down low, at lower rpms whereas the T5 doesn't. I sometimes wish I had more down low, but forcefully putting my foot into her, reminds me there's more there, there than I realize.

One thing I've learned on these cars is that vacuum leaks can quickly take all the fun away. So can those multiple one-way check valves that no longer check. Then you start pressurizing your crankcase and other areas where you DON'T want boost.

A smoke test will reveal all of that so you can keep her tight. Enjoy!
 
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