I was talking to a tow truck driver earlier today and he said that you should not use a " Jump Box " on any vehicle newer than 2009 . Supposedly it will fry the computer . Before I retired we used them weekly on newer vehicles all the time with no issues . I bought a 2018 Nissan Titan this week and I checked the owners manual for any type of warning but found nothing . Anyone else heard this ?
Use of a " Jump Box " .
- Thread starter Dantheman
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I used it on my 2015 Journey with 0 issues. Had issues with the battery before I replaced it.
Know what's in a jump box? A battery.
So how could connecting a battery to your battery terminals harm the car?
So how could connecting a battery to your battery terminals harm the car?
Jump boxes are a touch "safer" than jumper cables - less risk of arcing and with tow trucks now using MDTs less of a risk of frying on-board equipment.
The only cars I would be concerned with using one on would be any modern European car unless you follow the owner's manual to the T.
The only cars I would be concerned with using one on would be any modern European car unless you follow the owner's manual to the T.
I think the concern wasn't with the battery operated jump boxes, it was the DC converter ones. You know, the battery charger + jump start.
Basically how those work is it waits until it sees a voltage drop then goes full chooch and dumps as much power as it can into the system to supply energy to the starter. The risk they're talking about would be that voltage spike frying a computer.
That being said, the electronics in cars aren't as fragile as everyone seems to think. They have their own power regulation, they have a "safe mode" they go in if the voltage is too high. If they were that sensitive. then everyone who's had an alternator voltage regulator go out and charge at 17.5v would be screwed.
My suspicion is that it's more of a company policy for them as a result of a freak accident costing them some $$$
Basically how those work is it waits until it sees a voltage drop then goes full chooch and dumps as much power as it can into the system to supply energy to the starter. The risk they're talking about would be that voltage spike frying a computer.
That being said, the electronics in cars aren't as fragile as everyone seems to think. They have their own power regulation, they have a "safe mode" they go in if the voltage is too high. If they were that sensitive. then everyone who's had an alternator voltage regulator go out and charge at 17.5v would be screwed.
My suspicion is that it's more of a company policy for them as a result of a freak accident costing them some $$$
As an actual tow truck driver, he must of been given bad advice.
I carry two jump boxes on my wheel lift truck plus my direct jump cables. I've jumped everything brand new from a Fiat 500 to a Volvo diesel truck no problem.
Now, there is some vehicles that its advisable NOT to jump with jumper cables, some models of Porsche comes to mind, but there is ways of working with that if you need to...
I carry two jump boxes on my wheel lift truck plus my direct jump cables. I've jumped everything brand new from a Fiat 500 to a Volvo diesel truck no problem.
Now, there is some vehicles that its advisable NOT to jump with jumper cables, some models of Porsche comes to mind, but there is ways of working with that if you need to...
Never, ever, ever, ever, ever, jump off any motorcycles, ATV's or other powersports vehicles from a RUNNING vehicle. (Most use a shunt style voltage regulator)
Jumping from a fully charged battery in a vehicle that was just shut off (full of "surface charge") should be 100% safe for everything.
Jumping from a fully charged battery in a vehicle that was just shut off (full of "surface charge") should be 100% safe for everything.
There's also no risk to your own vehicle if you use a jump box.
Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
I think the concern wasn't with the battery operated jump boxes, it was the DC converter ones. You know, the battery charger + jump start.
Basically how those work is it waits until it sees a voltage drop then goes full chooch and dumps as much power as it can into the system to supply energy to the starter. The risk they're talking about would be that voltage spike frying a computer.
I had to use one of those once in a pinch back in my dealership days - it was an overflow lot and my jump pack didn't have enough power to kick over a Pilot with a dead battery.
I borrowed a boat yard's battery charged and told myself this is the first and last time I use that feature. It worked but I'm sure the alt was stressed having to charge that battery up on the 3 mile drive to the dealership. I immediately put the car on a battery charger and let it charge up for a few hours.
I think the concern wasn't with the battery operated jump boxes, it was the DC converter ones. You know, the battery charger + jump start.
Basically how those work is it waits until it sees a voltage drop then goes full chooch and dumps as much power as it can into the system to supply energy to the starter. The risk they're talking about would be that voltage spike frying a computer.
I had to use one of those once in a pinch back in my dealership days - it was an overflow lot and my jump pack didn't have enough power to kick over a Pilot with a dead battery.
I borrowed a boat yard's battery charged and told myself this is the first and last time I use that feature. It worked but I'm sure the alt was stressed having to charge that battery up on the 3 mile drive to the dealership. I immediately put the car on a battery charger and let it charge up for a few hours.
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