Update: Failed Toyota Highlander Oil & Filter Change Effort

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Originally Posted by The Critic

Try torquing the housing to the specified 18 ft-lbs. The housing will come off like butter next time.


+1

Have now owned 4 Toyota's with the cap type filter system and using a torque wrench torquing to the proper spec has made removal a breeze.
 
Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by ekpolk
...Then there's that "clever" predrain opening -- which usually made as much mess as it was designed to prevent. Worse, it was just another opening -- and potential source of failure -- in a system you don't ever want leaking.
I don't understand why they have that "predrain" on some cartridge models---or how it's supposed to work. The smaller cartridge of Prius and Corolla doesn't have that extra complication, and doesn't seem to need it. It's no more messy or difficult to change than a spin-on in the same inconvenient location would be.

Beats me. I've never used the pre-drain feature on my '11 Camry I4 and my '10 Tundra V8. My only beef is that the socket tends to stick to the plastic housing. Might it be nicer to have a spin? Maybe. But it pales next to a timing belt change so I kinda don't care.

I don't use a torque wrench on mine. I just go until I feel it seat. Then that's it. Always comes out as expected. I figure the o-ring has so much drag that it's simply not going to vibrate itself out.
 
Originally Posted by Hootbro
Originally Posted by The Critic

Try torquing the housing to the specified 18 ft-lbs. The housing will come off like butter next time.


+1

Have now owned 4 Toyota's with the cap type filter system and using a torque wrench torquing to the proper spec has made removal a breeze.


This
 
Well now I have two Toyota's in the family with the cartridge oil filter. I will try the 18ft/lbs (216 in-lbs) torque next oil change but I doubt I torque it that much now by hand. I will be very happy if official torquing works to make the canister easier to come off but I am a bit skeptical.

wb
 
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