UOAs for Redline 10W40, Bel Ray EXS 0W40?

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I was at a shop that had good sale prices on these motorcycle oils, and was trying to decide. Found no used oil analysis on bitog. Found a post where an expert whose opinion I respect criticized a less expensive bel ray oil.

I bought the Redline. I've used their oils in the past (though I don't remember a stellar UOA using it in my car), and riders on the forums seem to like them, even if those riders don't post used oil analysis (that I can find anyway).

This one is for my 1st gen carb'd FZ1. It isn't as easy to start on cold mornings as FI bikes I've had, and I'm reluctant to use the 15W40 HDEO I've been using in my other bike.

I may go back and get the Bel Ray too. Use that in the Winter.

Thoughts? used oil analysis?

FWIW They also had Golden Spectro, various Motul, Repsol, etc. All on sale.
 
Im presently running redline 10w40 right now, just running it long enough to get my money back or 2 to 3 times my normal change interval

The Mc 10w40, main differnce is they removed just about all the Moly, the car stuff is fairly loaded with it.

IN all, Id have rather spent the money on Motul (the banans smell stuff) , as the redline isnt doing anything for me, that castrol 4t cant do.
 
I have used every expensive oil as well as cheap ones in my bikes. I loved redline but I'm done paying their insane prices for it.
I've found in my shared sump bikes that top end noise and oil shear are connected and when the top end taps I change the oil.
I've got nothing but anecdotal experience and no data to contribute. The only hard data I've got is money spent per mile using various hdeo's and motorcycle specific 4T oils.
In my shared sump bikes no oil resisted shear longer than 3500 miles. Whether it was a 4T syn or a JASO stamped hdeo. In fact the conventional hdeo was the lube that kept the tapping quiet the longest. Funny thing is it is conventional rotella and the least expensive of all I've used.
I think if you compared an hdeo 15w40 and redline's 15w40 you'd find them very close in both hot and cold viscosity.
My Harley has a 106 S&S big bore kit,cams,dyno tune and is tuned to run lean on the highway while cruising so I know this bike runs hotter than stock and I'm using conventional rotella in it as well. I use it in all my bikes now.
At 3 bucks a quart I'm beyond caring if I've gotten the most from the oil which crossed my mind often when paying 15 a quart.
I buy the stuff in 5 gallon pails so Its less trips to the madhouse. I use it in my primary too so once the oil starts turning grey I change it. Its way cheaper than the Harley branded stuff and my clutch operates wonderfully even with the power levels unattainable in a stock bike with a stock clutch too.
My 3 shared sump bikes all talk to me in their own way. The 1100 Yamaha venture gets grabby when the oil need changing. My 2 Hondas both get a very loud tap on the top end. So instead of even caring about oil anymore I use rotella and forget it. I want to ride,not change oil nor pay the premium bike oils command when the product inside performs no better than products worth less than half.
Heck. I can change the oil in each bike with rotella for the same price as a single quart of a motorcycle specific oil,and get equal or better performance too.

Marketing is a powerful tool. I suspect once a mc oil gets a picture of a bikini clad woman laying across the bike in the pic on the label it will be all over.
 
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